Everyone has their own oil preference n your not gonna get a straight answer. I run anu brand as long as it full syn
Which oil to use?
I read often but I am well aware that everything read can't be believed...so which oil is best to use to prevent lifter collapse?David Vizard didn't give a brand
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
I don't know of any oil that is specifically noted for preventing lifter collapse. Why the worry about such a specific thing? Any quality, name brand oil should be good enough.
I worry bc the army makes it worthy of commendation to be OCD with everything...it's a horrible and annoying habit. Add to that the fact that the more I OCD, the more I research...more like over analyze everything else. I know I do it, but it doesn't really hit me until after I've already done itI don't know of any oil that is specifically noted for preventing lifter collapse. Why the worry about such a specific thing? Any quality, name brand oil should be good enough.
I run fancy expensive oil in the truck and the Z28 gets pennz platinum, but in reality, you could use cheap oil and as long as you change it religiously, you won't have any issues.
You worry too much.I worry bc the army makes it worthy of commendation to be OCD with everything.......
Lifter collapse should be the least of your worries when it comes to selecting motor oil.
KW
LOL, if you want to worry about oil, try some different types and have samples all of them tested. That will tell you more about what the oil is doing than anything else. There is this place on the internet that can provide you with lots of oil info.I worry bc the army makes it worthy of commendation to be OCD with everything...it's a horrible and annoying habit. Add to that the fact that the more I OCD, the more I research...more like over analyze everything else. I know I do it, but it doesn't really hit me until after I've already done it
here is my opinion and you know opinions, there like A$$holes, everyone has one and they all stink right?
my preferred oil list goes as follows
#1 Amsoil
#2 M1 full syn
#3 Royal purple
#4 any leading brand full synthetic
#5 M1 conventional
#5 any leading brand conventional
#6 anything that meets the API or whatever standard it is.
now for filters, my Opinion (and it stinks remember) goes as follows
#1 Amsoil
#2 M1 Extended change
#3 Royal purple
#4 Wix
#5 Anything but FRAM
#6 Anything but FRAM
#7 Anything but FRAM
get my drift?
now... you need to decide a few things for yourself when you want to decide what oil you wish to use...
1: oil drain interval. are you going to stick with standard/conventional knowledge 3000 mile changes? or extended 5k+ changes? this is a very important question and it decides the majority of the outcome i think.
2: do you really beat on your car, more than it probably should be?
3: Do you demand a higher level of bearing surface protection at cold start up, and higher run temperatures than a standard conventional oil is capable of offering?
the YES answer to these questions is obviously a top name brand synthetic oil. Modern synthetics offer a huge improvement in thermal breakdown resistance, extended change intervals, EXCELLENT protection internally, better gas mileage (this is extremely debatable by some) reduced internal friction, reduced heat, and more benefits, over conventional oils. they just plain protect better than Dino oils. however, they come with a P$R$E$M$I$U$M if you get my drift. A few people opt to put in a super high change interval oil like the new amsoil that boasts 25K change intervals, and ever 10K get a blackstone or similar oil analysis done... but for the price of the analysis you could have just changed the oil... and not worried about it.
in the end its completely up to you what color/shape/brand bottle you pour into the top 710 cap and screw onto the bottom threaded portion of your engine...
my 94 Firebird Trans AM GT that i intend on keeping for a LONG time, has the following setup in it.
Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30
Mobil 1 Extended change filter
i'll go about 8k miles, and change. i can buy this setup for about 50 dollars at local parts store, i don't need a special retailer to purchase it, and M1 is a top manufacturer of motor oil for a reason. it plain works. my LT1 engine LOVES it. changing over from the semi synthetic the previous owner has ran since 97 the lifters quieted down, the temperature dropped, and i gained 1.5 MPG's in town.
that is my opinion, and it stinks....
SENT FROM MY ELECTRONIC CARRIER PIGEON. PLEASE EXCUSE ANY TYPO'S.
MOTOROLA DROID RAZR
my preferred oil list goes as follows
#1 Amsoil
#2 M1 full syn
#3 Royal purple
#4 any leading brand full synthetic
#5 M1 conventional
#5 any leading brand conventional
#6 anything that meets the API or whatever standard it is.
now for filters, my Opinion (and it stinks remember) goes as follows
#1 Amsoil
#2 M1 Extended change
#3 Royal purple
#4 Wix
#5 Anything but FRAM
#6 Anything but FRAM
#7 Anything but FRAM
get my drift?
now... you need to decide a few things for yourself when you want to decide what oil you wish to use...
1: oil drain interval. are you going to stick with standard/conventional knowledge 3000 mile changes? or extended 5k+ changes? this is a very important question and it decides the majority of the outcome i think.
2: do you really beat on your car, more than it probably should be?
3: Do you demand a higher level of bearing surface protection at cold start up, and higher run temperatures than a standard conventional oil is capable of offering?
the YES answer to these questions is obviously a top name brand synthetic oil. Modern synthetics offer a huge improvement in thermal breakdown resistance, extended change intervals, EXCELLENT protection internally, better gas mileage (this is extremely debatable by some) reduced internal friction, reduced heat, and more benefits, over conventional oils. they just plain protect better than Dino oils. however, they come with a P$R$E$M$I$U$M if you get my drift. A few people opt to put in a super high change interval oil like the new amsoil that boasts 25K change intervals, and ever 10K get a blackstone or similar oil analysis done... but for the price of the analysis you could have just changed the oil... and not worried about it.
in the end its completely up to you what color/shape/brand bottle you pour into the top 710 cap and screw onto the bottom threaded portion of your engine...
my 94 Firebird Trans AM GT that i intend on keeping for a LONG time, has the following setup in it.
Mobil 1 synthetic 5W30
Mobil 1 Extended change filter
i'll go about 8k miles, and change. i can buy this setup for about 50 dollars at local parts store, i don't need a special retailer to purchase it, and M1 is a top manufacturer of motor oil for a reason. it plain works. my LT1 engine LOVES it. changing over from the semi synthetic the previous owner has ran since 97 the lifters quieted down, the temperature dropped, and i gained 1.5 MPG's in town.
that is my opinion, and it stinks....
SENT FROM MY ELECTRONIC CARRIER PIGEON. PLEASE EXCUSE ANY TYPO'S.
MOTOROLA DROID RAZR
for oil i have tried a few out. my favorite was eneos but it is expensive stuff. true on a dyno it can yield some gains and it provides great lubrication properties and has molybdenum in it. only downside is that its expensive. at $108 fro 12 quarts i am trying to find something better. for now i threw some mag1 synthetic in the camaro no oil issues there. my favorite oil filter is K&N since they filter the smallest particles (10 microns) and have a 1" nut so taking the filter off is a breeze. from my experience mobil 1 isn't bad, i stopped using quakerstate since that stuff is really thin and gets dirty quick. i know thats technically a good thing but my engine isnt dirty inside so it makes me wonder about the oil.
I find that mobil 10w30 1 high mileage is a great oil it's a little bit thicker than the plain and it also has more detergents in it to keep your engine cleaner. The ol sewing machine valve train was much quieter in comparison to pennzoil dino.
Wal-mart non-synthetic.
I usually end up mixing 5w30 oils, because I really don't care.
It's a 350, it doesn't care.
I usually end up mixing 5w30 oils, because I really don't care.
It's a 350, it doesn't care.
This is excellent oil that meets stringent european standards, ACEA A3/B3 and it is NOT ILSAC 4 rated. All pluses in my book.I find that mobil 10w30 1 high mileage is a great oil it's a little bit thicker than the plain and it also has more detergents in it to keep your engine cleaner. The ol sewing machine valve train was much quieter in comparison to pennzoil dino.
I run M1 syn.
Filter I run a Napa Gold (Its a Wix filter wrapped in Napa).
If you want to even get the Golds on the cheap, go to Napa and ask them for a case of the Napa Golds they sell to businesses.
They will be like 12 white filters (They are the Golds just wrapped different).
Filter I run a Napa Gold (Its a Wix filter wrapped in Napa).
If you want to even get the Golds on the cheap, go to Napa and ask them for a case of the Napa Golds they sell to businesses.
They will be like 12 white filters (They are the Golds just wrapped different).
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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