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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So, I finally went back to the track. It's been 1 year and a rebuild since the last track day. Here's the meat of it.

Race Weight 3680lbs
DA 5618ft
Mods in sig, Stock rear axle (3.42's) M6. Street tires (295/35ZR18 Continental ExtremContact DWS) at 34PSI.

1st pass:

R/T........0.547
60'.........2.472
330........6.321
1/8 ET....9.279
1/8 MPH..83.41
1000.......11.803
1/4 ET....13.912
1/4 MPH..107.31

Best Pass:

R/T.........0.190
60'..........2.265
330.........6.072
1/8 ET.....9.024
1/8 MPH...83.67
1000.......11.542
1/4ET......13.642
1/4 MPH...108.40

Last Pass (Lost an injector at launch, electrical connector popped off):

R/T..........0.122
60'...........2.465
330..........6.599
1/8 ET......9.788
1/8 MPH....77.07
1000........12.528
1/4 ET......14.809
1/4 MPH....100.03


Average for the night (I improved with each of my 6 runs throughout the night minus the last one):

R/T...........0.2365 (Irrelevant I know, but much better than before, my best here was 0.122)
60'............2.438 (0.203 worse than before my rebuild, Honestly afraid I'll break the rear axle)
330...........6.335 (0.097 worse than before rebuild)
1/8 ET.......9.334 (Improvement of .146, not impressive)
1/8 MPH.....82.275 (Up 7.962 mph from before rebuild)
1000.........11.898 (Improved only 0.375 seconds from before rebuild)
1/4 ET.......14.038 (Improved only 0.577 seconds)
1/4 MPH.....106.10 (Up 9.814 MPH)


My bests improved better than my average, 0.851 seconds faster in the 1/4 and 11.23 MPH faster.

Race weight to trap speed gives me 366rwhp, using the info below my SAE correction factor is 1.132 that brings me to a Dyno matched 414rwhp. So trap speed is good for the DA, but how do I get my ET down? It's embarrassing to me.

Temp was at 82.8°F
Dew Point was 13°F
Humidity was 7%
Baro read 29.80 in/hg
Elevation is 3075 ft
Density Altitude was 5618 ft

So trap speed is good for the DA, but how to I get my ET down? It's embarrassing to me.
 

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Practice more especially if you keep improving with each run. I'm sure you know those big heavy street tires and rims are hurting you bad for traction and gearing with 3.42's. Also, find a track with a lower elevation and a better DA. Don't give up! My first time out was disappointing too, went back a couple weeks later with drag radials and picked up 4 tenths. Don't even worry about your reaction time just focus on getting the car moving, driving a stick at the track is challenging enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Practice more especially if you keep improving with each run. I'm sure you know those big heavy street tires and rims are hurting you bad for traction and gearing with 3.42's. Also, find a track with a lower elevation and a better DA. Don't give up! My first time out was disappointing too, went back a couple weeks later with drag radials and picked up 4 tenths. Don't even worry about your reaction time just focus on getting the car moving, driving a stick at the track is challenging enough.
Yeah, I want to keep the 3.42's in this 10bolt for strength without the girdle. I'm still torn between 3.90's for my 7.5" and axle tube braces/girdle for $700 or so or $2600 for a 9" set up with 3.89's.

It's not going to be a drag car, but with my power at my altitude I'd like to see low 13's to high 12's on street tires.

I also want to keep the car in my street configuration for my drag days. Is it possible to hit my target with my set up at my altitude?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With more practice and better weather conditions...yeah I think so.
Cool, I'll practice more. Weather in the winter should be much better here. DA's get down to about 2400ft. Both my cars love the winter here.
 

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just my 2 cents on the 3.42 gear for strength thing.. ive been running 4.10's in my car since the build (tried 3.42's but the cam surge was terrible) and have never had a ring and pinion issue.. ive found the posi unit itself to be the weak point in the rearend as ive exploded 2 of them. after the second one let loose I decided to weld the side gears in the carrier solid and 2 passes later I broke an axle.. the best 60ft I ever got with the 6 speed without the rear breaking was a 1.8x..
 

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Your 60' is killing your et obviously. You shifting can probably improve some too.

I'm seeing da corrected as 12.687 @ 116.503 MPH. I had a slightly smaller cam in my a4 and I was trapping mid 118's to 119 at around 200lbs less. I was also hooking in the 1.6s on radials. I think there is more mph in your setup to be found. Maybe its in the tune or just the shifting. Like Dave said, keep practicing. Much harder to get a great pass with a stick until you are seasoned to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Your 60' is killing your et obviously. You shifting can probably improve some too.

I'm seeing da corrected as 12.687 @ 116.503 MPH. I had a slightly smaller cam in my a4 and I was trapping mid 118's to 119 at around 200lbs less. I was also hooking in the 1.6s on radials. I think there is more mph in your setup to be found. Maybe its in the tune or just the shifting. Like Dave said, keep practicing. Much harder to get a great pass with a stick until you are seasoned to it.
Yeah, I gotta work on that 60' time for sure. Were those 1.6 times on the stock 7.5", stall?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
just my 2 cents on the 3.42 gear for strength thing.. ive been running 4.10's in my car since the build (tried 3.42's but the cam surge was terrible) and have never had a ring and pinion issue.. ive found the posi unit itself to be the weak point in the rearend as ive exploded 2 of them. after the second one let loose I decided to weld the side gears in the carrier solid and 2 passes later I broke an axle.. the best 60ft I ever got with the 6 speed without the rear breaking was a 1.8x..
M6 with 4.10's and 1.8's? You're on your second axle right? Sorry, I'm gathering data.
 

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Yeah, I gotta work on that 60' time for sure. Were those 1.6 times on the stock 7.5", stall?
I don't think he ever raced his on a stock 10 bolt.

Like others said, get the 60' down to a 1.6-1.8 and you will ET much better.

That being said, best of luck to you as you are going about this the very hard way. :lol:

Going quick on street tires will be hard but it helps prolong rear end life, going quick on slicks is easy but will most def shorten the life span of rear end. Catch 22.



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Discussion Starter #11
I don't think he ever raced his on a stock 10 bolt.

Like others said, get the 60' down to a 1.6-1.8 and you will ET much better.

That being said, best of luck to you as you are going about this the very hard way. :lol:

Going quick on street tires will be hard but it helps prolong rear end life, going quick on slicks is easy but will most def shorten the life span of rear end. Catch 22.
It's not just about rear end life. But, you know people will not claim times they run in mine shaft air? I don't want to claim times I can't duplicate without any changes to parts/settings. My tires have more bite to them, I just gotta practice. Apparently these Conti's perform damn well for an all season tire. Better than some Summer only (Goodyear Eagle F1 SC's) tires. One day this rear will go the way of the dodo and I'll get a 9" or S60.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I can drive to the track, maybe air down the rears a little, and cut 1.8 area short times pretty easy I would guess. (17inch street rims with drag radials out back, street setup)

Have you given thought to a more drag oriented tire?
I have and I'm torn. The reviews on my tires are excellent though. Many people run these on Vette's with great things to say about them. One guy said he cut a 1.8 60' time on 275's on the same tires I have; his was on a C5 though. I'm sure I can get there too, or close. These tires bite. On a good track prep, they'll hook up very good for an all weather street tire.

I'm not saying your's or others aren't a street set up. But my street set up will be geared toward turning more than drag racing. So I'm limited there.

I don't think it's unreasonable to run a high 12.X with my set up on street tires do you guys?
 

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My very first time at the track I ran 13.3 with street tires and a 1.99 sixty. I went back two-three weeks later with DR's and ran 12.8 and a 1.82 sixty. Tires make a world of difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My very first time at the track I ran 13.3 with street tires and a 1.99 sixty. I went back two-three weeks later with DR's and ran 12.8 and a 1.82 sixty. Tires make a world of difference.
I'm seeing that. I wish I had money for two cars, one for drag racing.....
 

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I had 3.70's in a 9 inch with an ss3600 on 26 inch et street radials. I believe the DA was between +500 to +1000ft that day. I have since changed to an ss4000 and switch between et streets for street trim on my 17's or hoosier radials on my 15" prostars. If you want to turn, you won't be going all out fast in a straight line. Get below the 2.0s and you'll be getting into the 12s. Its going to take a lot of work to learn the proper launch and not blowing the radials off. That is why most m6 guys go bias ply, they recover quicker and easier so you don't botch the run.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had 3.70's in a 9 inch with an ss3600 on 26 inch et street radials. I believe the DA was between +500 to +1000ft that day. I have since changed to an ss4000 and switch between et streets for street trim on my 17's or hoosier radials on my 15" prostars. If you want to turn, you won't be going all out fast in a straight line. Get below the 2.0s and you'll be getting into the 12s. Its going to take a lot of work to learn the proper launch and not blowing the radials off. That is why most m6 guys go bias ply, they recover quicker and easier so you don't botch the run.
Thanks for the tips and pointers. Man I tell you though, I may break down and get a set of slicks just to see what it'll do; it's pretty addicting lol. After the 8.8 set up goes in. Yup, decided to ditch the 7.5" and go with a hiltsy mount and 8.8. Gonna be about a month or two before I get to it though.

Not looking for 10's out of this set up (not that it could even on slicks). But 12's should be reasonable I think.
 

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Thanks for the tips and pointers. Man I tell you though, I may break down and get a set of slicks just to see what it'll do; it's pretty addicting lol. After the 8.8 set up goes in. Yup, decided to ditch the 7.5" and go with a hiltsy mount and 8.8. Gonna be about a month or two before I get to it though.

Not looking for 10's out of this set up (not that it could even on slicks). But 12's should be reasonable I think.
Yes addicting, I went to a test and tune five years ago just to see what the car would do, since then I test and tune 5-6 times a year maybe throw in a special event race, now this year I added bracket racing at least once a month.
 
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