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Discussion Starter #1
I was just wondering how much you guys thought a internally stock LS1 (F-body) could make. I mean any and all Bolt ons done. The only think that isnt changed is the bottom end the cam and the heads. This is with all bolt ons including intake and underdrive pullies and all those little things. So what do you think, Ive heard a lot of different numbers, some say 400 at the crank and some say that can't be done.
 

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On the wife's 99 SS M6 we did:
Ported TB
SLP MAF
LS6 Intake
Long tube headers
3" Catback
Lid
Free Ram Air mod

Got 331hp/342tq RWHP

Add a cut out and a pulley to that and you might see 345-350 rwhp.
 

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best of the full bolt ons?

FAST 90 / 90 TB
electric WP
qtp stepped headers
true duel x
lid W/CAI
85MM MAF
pulley
short belt

could see 355-360 rwhp...maybe....
 

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Chris 96 WS6 said:
What about 1.8 ratio rockers?
in a LS1 thats not considered a bolt on ;)
 

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the QTP HVMCs are supposed to add a few ponies. is removing things such as A/C considered bolt on(or off in this case)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jaberwaki said:
best of the full bolt ons?

FAST 90 / 90 TB
electric WP
qtp stepped headers
true duel x
lid W/CAI
85MM MAF
pulley
short belt

could see 355-360 rwhp...maybe....
I will be doing an M6 most definetly and i will be doing the 1.8 ratio rockers. What are the qtp stepped headers? Are they better than other headers? Would true duels really make that much of a difference. I finally got a friend in the inspection field and i was going to do just do good headers and then an ory then a catback. Probably Borla or Magnaflow. My friends dad is making 460rwhp with only heads cam and exhaust and he said he didnt do true duals becasuse it would have cost him alot more and would have only freed up a few ponies.
 

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duals are cheaper if they are dumped. when you add the cost of the cat-back and the y pipe, its alot cheaper. if you ever plan on doing a cam swap later on down the road, don't get the 1.8 ratio rockers cause most cams will ramp too fast with them
 

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1.8 rockers are a waste of time and money IMO, they change the valve train geometry and usually produce very little gains in HP. you have to add a lot of lift to see real power increases, when duration stays the same.

also unless you plan to do a cam I would not do the FAST 90/90, you will see an increase in peak HP but will probably lose some low end torque.

regardless of what you do I would suggest doing lid/filter and headers first, if you can afford them do a good stepped header like Dynatech or Kooks.
lots of options out there and you will get a lot of different opinions, do some research, lots of research.
beware modding is not cheap and is highly addictive :cancan:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am being very realistic here and i have decided that i will probably be doing full bolt ons and then a cam. I will be using the stock heads and i may get them ported . I wanted to do a heads and cam swap but i know ill never get enough for the heads because most of my money goes toward restoring the firebird. What do you all think of the T-rex cam. Has anyone used it. At thunderracing.com they have a dyno chart of exactly what i want to do and its making 450 hp i dont know if thats rwhp or at the crank. Anybody have any suggestions? I probably wont be going with such a crazy cam like that but thats a lot of horsepower for stock heads.
 

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the Trex is a wicked cam, really not for a street car. id go with somehting more like the F13 from Futral. its capable of 400+ on stock heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Phoenix57 said:
the Trex is a wicked cam, really not for a street car. id go with somehting more like the F13 from Futral. its capable of 400+ on stock heads.
At the crank?
 

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at the ground, alot of time when "real" car people talk about what their car does make, they measure it at the ground, and report it as such
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay yah that sounds like a good cam setup then
 
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