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Discussion Starter #81
An 80 mph kick in 4th gear on a damp interstate will dang near make a car swap ends. Yikes!! I don't think a needle coulda been hammered up it. lol I'll get some video up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Bad news.........I believe she bit the dust last night. I thought I had been feeling more vibration in the clutch pedal and gear shifter the last couple times I drove it. Last night on the way home it got pretty bad around 3000 rpm and when I pulled in the driveway the oil pressure dropped to zero, Oil pressure sits on zero most of the time now until I bring the rpm up, it always had at least 30 lbs at idle til now. I took the belt off the blower to quieten it down so I could hear it better and while it's still not bad it definitely has a knock/rattle to it around 3000 rpm. It sounds just like what piston slap sounds like when the motor is cold. I figured the sucker would rattle like marbles in a tin can with no oil pressure. That's what ya get when you put 7 lbs on 10.5:1 with 155k on the motor!! Time to do a lil OT at work and buy some parts!
 

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Discussion Starter #85
Your killing me smalls! Ok, send me the set-up- I will use one of my cars to "T E S T" the supercharger for ya!
LOL I don't know if I should do a full on motor or just rebuild it with decent pistons and bring the compression down. I really don't have the money for a full on motor and the way things are at work it will take a pretty good while to get the funds up. How strong is the stock crank and rods? I'd like to drop CR to about 9 or 9.5 and still run 7 lbs, maybe a lil more, with a pretty decent cam and possibly head work from LE. Will the stock crank and rods handle 500+ from boost? I believe the knock from the past few years is what hammered the rod more than likely.
 

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I wouldnt recomend stock crank and rods for boost applications but i do know they hold up pretty good. Its all gonna depend on ur tune. With lower compression you can handle easier boost but it wont guarantee that the rest is gonna hold. Stock cranks do handle 500 hp. U should really think about not only the crank and rods. Think 4 bolt mains, correct piston rings, arp bolts and so. Lots of people miss these little details that may change the story. Rotating assemblies are not that expensive considering u have 2 part out ur engine
 

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Discussion Starter #89
Your choice is should YOU run the stock type configuration for your car or your mild build to show off the supercharger set up.
Yep. If I would have started off with this blower we probably wouldn't even be having this conversation. I believe the knock that I was getting for the last several years that I thought was false knock may have been actual knock. Knock on a supercharged motor especially with that much CR is a time bomb, it just hammers the rod bearings. And now with this blower running so much better with very minimal knock I've ran the dog piss out of it the last couple weeks but the damage had already been done and it decided it was done being abused. lol

After lots of pondering last night here's the most likely path I'm gonna take due to funding issues........I know I'm gonna have to pull the motor anyway so I might as well put a good solid forged bottom end in it so I don't have to pull it out again later for that. That includes four bolt main caps, align boring, decking the block just to true it up and possibly o-ringing the deck because in the future I'm not sure how much boost I will throw at this thing. I'm not real sure how much psi a "normal" head gasket can hold up to, seems like I've read 10 psi but I need to research that. Put the motor back together basically stock with the exception of dropping the CR. Heads will be untouched for now and I might possibly put the stock cam and valvetrain back in for now just to see how it will perform, not sure about that one yet. Of course I'll get a new oil pump, timing chain set, head bolts and all the small stuff.

I'm more of a fabricator and less of an engine builder. I know the basics of what it takes to make one go fast but I've been out of that realm of it for quite a while and things change fast so guide me on some of these parts. I found a forged Scat rotating assembly for $1670, is scat any good? Don't want eagle stuff because I've heard too much bad things about them. 4 bolt main caps, I know the splayed ones were the way to go at one time, is this still true? If so recommend a good brand. The rotating assembly comes with main and rod bearings but that doesn't mean they are good ones. Clevite? Rings also come with the asembly, are gapless rings still in or no? Brand?
 

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Discussion Starter #90

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Discussion Starter #91
No input from anybody? Well ok then.
 

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Here's a link to the rotating assembly Flatlander Racing - SCAT SB Chevy Forged Stroker Kit/Rotating Assembly It's part number 1-41643BIE in column C about 2/3 of the way down the page. I'll have to swap out different pistons because I want a lil lower CR than 9.8. I have considered going 383, what all is involved in stroking this block?
stroked block basically for 383 you need a 400ci crank, also you need rods which change from 5.7" to 6" length, pistons would need to be a 0.030 over bore. also the pistons need to be matched with your rods lenght scat sells really nice rotating assemblies like this one SCAT Engine Components 1-91255BIE - Scat Engine Rotating Assemblies - Overview - SummitRacing.com.

if you stroke your engine you will need to clear some parts in the block so the rod doesnt hit the bottom cylinder sleeves, and also on the counter weights on the crank with the block. "never take this clearances from the crank or rods, always on the block itself.
you will need to modify the metal part that goes after placing the crank on its place, since your larger crank will hit this part.

since your running a roots type blower i wouldn't mind that much with the runner sizes in your head, but it is always better to have slightly larger ones in stroked applications. also the cam will show that like if it was a smaller cam, since you are pulling a lot more air into your cylinders. my cc503 sounds smaller than a lt4 hot cam kit on a 350, big inches can take bigger cams, till you find your limit on your heads, thats why I have a cc503 and not a 847cam, cause my heads bump in the way...

id did my stroker kit with eagle performance rotating assemblies and cant complain. but if I would have to do my engine again, I wouldnt stroke it, I would definitely go with a high rpm 355ci or even 360ci, it comes out cheaper than going with a 383. its lighter, revs higher, and you dont need to have big port heads, larger cam and fuel injectors tuned in.

other things that you should pay attention to would be going with 4 bolt mains, with a nice ARP mains, rods and head bolts.

you could also lower a bit your compression by using thicker head gaskets and also using the ones for boost, you should know this by now I suppose.

also if you go with an internally balanced engine or an externally balanced one. if you go with an internally balanced one and its a A4 trans you will need to take the weights off from the flex plate, dont know if the t56 uses this weights on the flywheel.

your piston rings should match if your going with boosted applications, specially the secondary one which will be your compression ring, this will help a lot with your blow by problems. total seal sells them to your desired measurements btw.

you do have to know that the lt1 is a 1 piece rear main seal, not a 2 piece like older 350ci models.

also add the prices on the complete engine gasket kits.

since you have your engine apart you could do a simple task on your heads and manifold, match port it and clear valve studs areas for better flow. did mine with a dremmel, didnt took that much work since they are aluminum heads. then i measured each runner with the valves closed with a syringe leaving all my runners at the same measurements, both intake and exhaust.
the manifold can be match ported as well with the intake ports.

well if i can think of anything else i will post it out here for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Just an FYI, I was watching some Overhauled reruns last night and the inspiration to get the car back on the road has hit me again. Unfortunately I'm in the middle of a complete remodel of the house (been remodelingfor 6 months now and im sick of it!) so its probably gonna be late summer or fall before I even get time to pull the motor. I need to at least check and see how many mice have took up residence in the car. Lol :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Is there a twin screw Whipple in my lil LT1's near future? Hmmm
 

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Discussion Starter #97
HA! What fun is it without a lil tease?? I've still got 3 rooms to remodel in the house so it's still a few months off before I get the funds to build the motor like I want. I'd be more than happy to receive donations tho. :) I want to go with a lil bigger blower because that lil eaton will probably run out of breath on a 383. Been pricing Whipples and they're not much more than the TVS Magnusson blowers so............
 

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Santa bringing a Whipple this year?
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Santa bringing a Whipple this year?
That would be nice but doubtful right now. Still remodeling the house, its taking forever. Commandment number 11- Never remodel a house when you have a car in need of building.
 

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Any progress?

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