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Discussion Starter #1
I need some advice on changing from the current BBK Shorty's to full on race headers with no AIR, EGR or Cats.

Here the spec of my LT1 Firebird TA engine & drivetrain so far:

Trick Flow GenX 185 Cylinder Heads & Track Max camshaft with duration at 050 inch Lift: 220 int./227 exh.
Edelbrock Air-Gap LT4 Intake
K&N Cold Air Induction Kit
Trick Flow Ceramic Coated Elbow
Professional Products 58mm Throttle Body
30lb Injectors
MSD GM Blaster Coil
MSD Digital 6 Plus Ignition
MSD Pro-Billet LT1 Optispark Distributor with Taylor Leads
Uprated Stall Speed Torque Converter
Transgo Performance Shift Kit
Holley NoS Dry Manifold single hit Injection Kit (I change the jet for different situations from 50 to 140 hp)
Detroit Locker True Track Differential

BBK Shorty Headers with blanked off EGR but has AIR Pump connected, both running into a Magnaflow Exhaust with no Cats & an electronic cutout 2/3rds down which sounds great

I need to know if I should keep the AIR Pump connected to new longtube race headers with AIR or just get a full race set, No AIR or EGR & remove the AIR Pump altogether?
The current BBK Shorty Headers have already had the EGR blanked off & they run through the Magnaflow System with no Cats at all.

Or would it be worth me keeping the BBK Shorty headers, just ditch the AIR Pump & blank off the old AIR connectors?

There is no problem with what is "Street Legal" in the UK as the Firebird is now classed US classic over here. I can always get it passed for normal road use no matter what.

Thanks
 

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I'd go with the fully no pollution control long tubes. Since you have no cats, the air pump is basically doing nothing. The long tubes will allow your engine to breath better.

If you have a big budget, I'd get Kooks stainless long tubes. They fit correctly with no beating & banging. And made of the best stainless. Over $1000 US.

For a lower budget, I'd do the pacesetter ceramic coated headers. They run about $499 US, last time I checked

For the economy minded, Ebay special China stainless headers. The require tweaking to get them to fit. Are made of cheap materials. But for around $250 to $300 US, they provide a lot of bang for the buck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm glad you answered me Cocobolo, always count your answers as solid.

I've found some Speed Engineering ones made from 304 Stainless Steel for a great price really. Don't mind if they need a little re working to fit.

So removing the AIR Pump is just a case of taking it off really?

I've always wanted to put on Long Tube Headers for quite sometime now. With the cutout open they'll sound even better.

Thanks again.
 

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Yes. Me too.
Speed engineering 13/4 arriving shortly.
Ditch the air pump, it’s doing nothing.

Where abouts are you?

Nic, I’ve pm’d you direct.

Mitch
 

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I've forgotten what year your lt1 car is. But, most people go ahead and remove the hoses, piping, and check valves to get a cleaner look in the engine compartment. You will probably have to tune out any air pump related codes also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1997 LT1, but that is when it was imported to the UK. Might actually be late 1996?

Thought something might show it the codes etc.
 

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If you don't want to tune the codes out of your pcm, I'm thinking, that putting a small 12 volt motor in place of the air pump would fool pcm into thinking air pump was still there.

You could extend the factory air pump wiring and mount the small motor most anywhere.

Of course the switch from shorties to long tubes might necessitate a new pcm tune. So in that case, tuning out the air pump codes would be just removing the check marks that air pump codes have in the code list that flashing program puts up after reading pcm contents.
 

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IIRC. The pcm just monitors the relay. You should be able to unplug the pump without any issue.
I think i bent the relay pin on the switched outgoing supply, so pump doesn’t get any power when my dead pump kept blowing fuses.

Although looking at your other mods you should be looking into tuning soon anyway .
Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah, it was tuned back in 2012 after all those mods already.

Was going to remove it but then kept the AIR so it would pump in fresh air to help with emissions, or that's what I thought?? Should of just removed it all back then!!

I removed the Cats & just replaced the gap with tubing welded in place, but the collectors are still not 3 inch. That's why I just want to go with full race Long Tube with 3 inch Y-Pipe collector.

Once the Long Tubes are in place I'll get it tuned again just for them.
 
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