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Discussion Starter #1
So I just got my new motor in the engine compartment (installed from the top) and I worked all weekend trying to get the trans to bolt up and I cant get it. I got it within probably a 1/4" of the engine block (bellhousing is on the transmission)

I used an alignment tool on the clutch, and I know the input shaft was inside the throwout bearing. I think it just is misaligned very slightly because I can feel the pins in the engine block through the holes in the bellhousing and they are close.

I've been playing musical jacks trying to get it at the correct angle but cant get it. I even removed the transmission completely
 

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Discussion Starter #2
On a second but related note; has anybody ever installed the engine and transmission together from the top in a 4th gen?
 

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First off , I would make sure all is lined up via your alignment tool. Once you get the trans close see if you can start a few bolts ,but only by a few threads,dont try and tighten them. Try and take as much weight off the trans as you can, get in the car and push the clutch in and out a couple of times. Go back and wiggle the trans and see if that does it. Good luck .ed
 

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Take some sand paper to the dowel pins and anywhere you see corrosion etc that would inhibit proper mating. They can be real tough to get in but like Ed said, start a couple bolts just to help with alignment and get the weight off of the input shaft. It helps having an extra set of hands or eyes to guide you.
 

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even using the "alignment tool" the clutch disc can be slightly off not allowing the input shaft to align with pilot bearing. Don't use the tranny bolts to draw the transmission in as damage to pilot bearing can happen.

When this has happened to me, and it has, I losen clutch PP and re-align. I find it helpfull to "push" in on the alignment tool as it tends to hang down. run your fingers around the disc edge, it should be consistant in terms of how it mates up to the edge of the PP. If it sticks in/out more in one area around the clutch it is not lined up.

Also make sure the tranny and engine are exactly the same angle meaning if there is a larger gap between engine and tranny top or bottom you need to raise/lower either the engine or tranny or both until that gap is even.

I have not tried the method suggested where you hold the tranny up with some of the bolts, get the clutch fork to go on the TO bearing, push in clutch to see if it disengages enough to allow alignment and then slide in tranny. If you can get the fork on the TO bearing with it still out about 1/4" than try that
 

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So I just got my new motor in the engine compartment (installed from the top) and I worked all weekend trying to get the trans to bolt up and I cant get it. I got it within probably a 1/4" of the engine block (bellhousing is on the transmission)

I used an alignment tool on the clutch, and I know the input shaft was inside the throwout bearing. I think it just is misaligned very slightly because I can feel the pins in the engine block through the holes in the bellhousing and they are close.

I've been playing musical jacks trying to get it at the correct angle but cant get it. I even removed the transmission completely
I've had the pressure relief line get pinched between the trans mid plate and bell housing. That was a frustrating experience. Check for that.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies gents. Sorry it took me a while to get back. I ended up getting frustrated and pulled the engine and trans out. I am leaning toward a clutch issue because I was able to connect the 2 in my driveway only by sliding the clutch assembly onto the input shaft first (not bolted to flywheel). I have jacked up my pilot bearing somehow and will have I replace that now.
 

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We dont always do this,at least I dont,but, we should always pre-fit
the pieces/parts that we are in process of assembling. I am pretty
sure you would have saved yourself all the time that it has taken to get
yourself righted. Hopefully then, we could all save the cuss words that come into play in these frustrating situations. ed
 

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sonce the motor is now out...and you see the pilot got FU replace it. Then install clutch again on motor while out, put bell housing on and then fit the tranny while everything is out of the car.

Not sure if you can do motor & tranny togeather but if not leave the clutch on since it will already be aligned. Leave off the bellhousing if you have to on motor install, just leave clutch installed.

I don't have a F-body so can't comment on if it is possible to install both from up top.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
We dont always do this,at least I dont,but, we should always pre-fit
the pieces/parts that we are in process of assembling. I am pretty
sure you would have saved yourself all the time that it has taken to get
yourself righted. Hopefully then, we could all save the cuss words that come into play in these frustrating situations. ed
Yeah I'm pretty sure the neighbor kids picked up some new vocabulary
 

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I just installed both the engine and M6 together. I will say I am glad I did it like this. You have to make sure your car is off the ground as the trans will hit the deck because of the angle used to put it in. You will have to have a partner for this method. It is recommended to test fit/align the engine and trans before installing either. Even with the engine and trans test fitted out of the car it was still a little tuff getting the trans bolted up meaning it doesn't just slide on. It gets close then you carefully draw it in using the bolts; you will be fine. Make sure the trans and engine are at the same angles for this. You will be able to tell if the trans input shaft is in the pilot bearing. When this happens it will rotate and be very close to the dowls. Then gently draw it in with bolts evenly. People do it this way all the time. The issue is the dowls and bellhousing holes are close in tolerance so when you're at an angle it makes it ten times harder to install. When both are installed in the car do not bolt anything down. Install trans cross member and one engine mount bolt (no nut). Use cherry picker to lift one side of engine and install plugs, wires and headers...then other side the same way. Make sure you wrap your wires (pass side) with heat wrap or reflector wrap before installing of engine. This would be the PCM ground wire,O2 wire, knock sensor wire, starter solenoid wire etc. Also wrap your slave hose. I used plug wire heat sleeves. If you have any more questions P.M. me. I just did this a few weeks ago.
 

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. Then gently draw it in with bolts evenly. People do it this way all the time. .
My $.02

"I" would not draw the transmission in with the bolts. Damage to pilot bearing doing this often if not guarenteed.

If you did it fine but that procedure is not recommended.

The plastic alignment tools are a POS but all you get with a clutch kit. If you can get your hands on a used input shaft as a tool, that works better. In any event re-align the clutch and try stabing the tranny again
 

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When the input shaft is inserted into the pilot bearing it will be okay to draw the tranny in the rest of the way using bolts. This is done by fitting the tranny as close as possible to the dowels. This will take some effort but can be done easier out of the car than in. When aligning the clutch ensure it is equally spaced all around d the press plate and this will be cake.
 

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I just did mine a few weeks ago and i ended up removing one of the dowel pins to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing. Once the input shaft was in the pilot bearing I started threading the bolts and tightening them in a criss-cross pattern. Sucked the tranny right in.
 

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That's what I was trying to say.
 

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if you know the tranny is in far enough for the input shaft to actually be in the pilot bearing than drawing the tranny in with bolts would be OK.....but what I have seen with people doing this is the tranny is not yet in the pilot bearing, because input shaft is catching edge of bearing because clutch disc is not aligned right, is the input shaft pushes the pilot bearing into the crank. Now the tranny bolts in...but the input shaft is not "inside" the bearing/bushing...it is just touching the end of it and then will chew it up...and just get worse from there.

it can be agravating as F when you can't get the tranny in the last 1/2" so if it does not go in, I find droping the tranny and re-aligning the disc is the solution...as frustrating as that is.

Now if the dowel pins are the reason it hangs up (tranny did mate to BH before) suggest taking the bellhousing while off the motor and when trans is out to "dry" fit it to confirm it mates easily. Even using emery cloth or wire wheel to clean up dowels or even slightly "hone" holes in bellhousing.
 

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I dont know how much room you have under the car,but another plan would be to use 2 studs maybe 4" long or so,that will get the trans in the proper alignment once you have the trans in this position,then you can
wiggle it in the rest of the way. Yes the previous ideas are good ones and I have used them also,but this one seems to be a ball b----r. Good luck, ed
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Thanks again for all the responses guys. I haven't had a chane to look at this again. (Work has been a little crazy with jrtc planning and such) but I will get I after it again this weekend. I have the motor and trans out of the car and hope to replace the pilot bearing with a bushing and then i think it will bolt up. Then I'm gonna try and put the motor and trans back in together.
 

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If you do makes sure the car about two feet off the deck. This ensures the angle needed to put this in is achieved and that the tranny wont hit the ground causing frustration. Its a two man job!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks usmc. I plan to IM you when I have problems.
 
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