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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am new to this, but figured collectively that you guys could help me with my 97 Firehawk 6M.
Here is what I have done:
*Headers, mufflers, Mass Airflow, 58mm tb, 410 rear gears, Hypertech tune, KN filter.
I wouldnt mind tearing it down and doing heads and cam, but the car only has 10k miles on it. I cant bring myself to do it, so I would like some supercharger help.
1. Is Procharger the best option?
2. Can I only go 8psi with stock engine?
3. Does anybody have a used one for sale that is complete?
Any other thoughts??

This car is my FRS (friday release of stress) car. It sits in the garage all the time. I don't plan on dragging this car, just having fun. Maybe I'll drive it more.
 

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Dido what Fox Slaughter said. I ask though why mess with such a good working LT1? It has no issues which is abnormal so why...just why?
 

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1. Procharger is your only option for a new kit.
2. 6psi is where I would start.
3. Any Procharger rep.

The kits are not cheap and honestly, unless you are dumping a bunch into the supporting mods, I would just do a good heads/cam setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok. so without a forged componet motor, it is just a matter of time before it blows-this is what Im starting to understand. The $5500 price tag for a scharger would go a long way in either rebuilding to a 383 stroker or just heads and cam. All I want is some more fun in a car that I don't drive much. Do you know of anybody with a low mile LT1 that is scharged that blew it up?
What hp could a guy get with good heads and a cam?
How tough actually the LT1? I don't personally know anybody with one to ask questions to.
I just want to pull up to some newer cars and leave em behind.
thanks for all the help.
 

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it's a matter of time before any engine explodes, boost or not, but yes, boost always shortens the lifespan of an engine in some way

how much it shortens it depends on how much boost you run, how well it's tuned, how it's driven..

h/c is a way better choice for a stock engine for sure, boost should be something you add later, once you run out of other ways to increase volumetric efficiency.
 

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you have my email reply... so the all mighty public mind reads, my suggestions was to build the motor and leave it at that.
 

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If you want good reliable power for your current motor without dropping the big bucks, just do a healthy heads cam and intake combo.

I did know a friend who had a low mileage motor who just did 6psi with all the supporting mods (inter cooling, good fuel system, safe tune ect.) and he was on the stock motor. He didn't make it to his next scheduled oil change before it blew.

That's really the gamble you are taking when doing this (it still amazes me the amount of people who ask this very question over and over again). Our engines came from the factory with a high CR, and non-forged internals. They were not meant for boost. Until they are built for boost with forged internals and a lower CR, they will not handle boost. You may make it 20,000 miles if you baby it, and not get into the boost much, and have excellent supporting mods, but then again you may end up like my friend who didn't make it 2,000 miles before his motor grenaided. Even if you do play it safe and just run 6#'s of boost, you are going to have thousands invested in the supercharger, the fuel system, the intercooler ect., and for what? 6#'s of boost is not really going to net you that much power.

You say you just want to have fun, and it could easily turn into a rebuild. You are much better off just doing the build now, and have good working parts to deal with, or to sell than having a very short lived fun period and are left with destroyed engine parts.

If you really want to be part of the boosted club, I say start saving. Do it right and have the motor built to take the boost reliably. A good boosted setup all said and done will cost you a good $13,000 going with cheap parts like eagle, and summit. A well built setup can cost you $20,000+ going with parts like Lunati, and Oliver. This is why you don't see a ton of boosted guys out there. Most simply don't have that kind of cash.

Many can get out cheap in the LS side of things going with a junk yard 5.3 engine that is ready to handle boost from the get go, and slapping a turbo on it. Still not entirely as reliable as building a motor for boost, but way more reliable for cheap than trying to boost a factory LS1 or LT1.

I hope this helps your decision.
 

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The funny thing about supercharging is getting the blower mounted and setup is only about 20% of the amount of work needed for it to be reliable. Everyone else on here is giving great advice. I build my bottom end with forged internals cause I knew I wanted to run a blower. I only paid 1600 for a used kit and thought I was getting out cheap bwahaha. It has only just begun. Tune, injectors, extra fuel pumps, intercooler, piping,02s. Not to mention trying to keep the disgusting oil from the crank case blowing through the hoses to the opti. Had a slightly dented crank pulley that I had to re-order, tensioner pulley went out once. I will say I love forced induction, but maybe only cause it feels like 1 of the hardest things I've ever had to get going. I agree that a heads can setup would do worlds for you, and it would be cleaner than trying to go F.I.
 

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I would hate to discourage anyone from boosting a LT-1 (unless they have a 10K mile motor. LOL), but many a people **do think** that it is as simple as buying a blower and slapping it on (not that RAIRAIR thought that, but some do). Unless someone is going All Out, the cost for 6lbs. of boost is not worth the returns <**BUT**> having people follow you into parking lots, and pulling up next to you at traffic light just to ask if "that thing has a turbo on it" (not every observer knows the difference. LOL), has to be worth something.
 

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Boost

It is another world unless you are really dedicated it is a tuff world. I blew both head gaskets the first week after getting the motor tuned. Change the gaskets on a Camaro and tell me its fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks-change of plans

If you want good reliable power for your current motor without dropping the big bucks, just do a healthy heads cam and intake combo.

I did know a friend who had a low mileage motor who just did 6psi with all the supporting mods (inter cooling, good fuel system, safe tune ect.) and he was on the stock motor. He didn't make it to his next scheduled oil change before it blew.

That's really the gamble you are taking when doing this (it still amazes me the amount of people who ask this very question over and over again). Our engines came from the factory with a high CR, and non-forged internals. They were not meant for boost. Until they are built for boost with forged internals and a lower CR, they will not handle boost. You may make it 20,000 miles if you baby it, and not get into the boost much, and have excellent supporting mods, but then again you may end up like my friend who didn't make it 2,000 miles before his motor grenaided. Even if you do play it safe and just run 6#'s of boost, you are going to have thousands invested in the supercharger, the fuel system, the intercooler ect., and for what? 6#'s of boost is not really going to net you that much power.

You say you just want to have fun, and it could easily turn into a rebuild. You are much better off just doing the build now, and have good working parts to deal with, or to sell than having a very short lived fun period and are left with destroyed engine parts.

If you really want to be part of the boosted club, I say start saving. Do it right and have the motor built to take the boost reliably. A good boosted setup all said and done will cost you a good $13,000 going with cheap parts like eagle, and summit. A well built setup can cost you $20,000+ going with parts like Lunati, and Oliver. This is why you don't see a ton of boosted guys out there. Most simply don't have that kind of cash.

Many can get out cheap in the LS side of things going with a junk yard 5.3 engine that is ready to handle boost from the get go, and slapping a turbo on it. Still not entirely as reliable as building a motor for boost, but way more reliable for cheap than trying to boost a factory LS1 or LT1.

I hope this helps your decision.
Thanks for the help. I ended up buying a 04 GTO from a buddy with a salvage title-a real nice silver auto with 78k miles that had front end damage. Cant go wrong fixed and painted for $6500. I plan on just tearing down a 6litre and building it back up. I will save my LT1 that way! I am looking for a 05-06 GTO hood if you know of anyone with one!
 

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Well my lt1 has 25,000 miles on it im like you i dont drive it much i bought it 4 yrs ago with. 23,000 on it. I was gonna do a procharger to but after talking to kieth at bigshot dyno and performance he told me to do a cam and heads package that it would make just as much power as a procharger and it would b alot better on the motor and the motor would last longer and it was cheaper. My car dynoed 400 @ the tire so not to bad plus it was way cheaper
 
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