Whatever you do don't skimp on the converter, or you might have the same issie next time as you had this time. Spend the money to get a good quality one. What are the cam specs? I'd say stick w/ a 4000, but maybe thats just me.
Stall Speed
We just completed a bunch of new mods, ported and polished heads 30# injectors 58MM throttle body 505/530 Isky cam trans rebuild on turbo 350 mad z28 cpu tune. after about 6 weeks of working on the z we fired it up and it started right up no oil leaks wow! Then on to the road it sounded great, It used to start losing power at about 5800 rpm but now it pulls right past 6500, the only problem was off the line it made a terrible squeal and it wasn't coming from the tires, LOL, It turned out to be the stall converter. The trans is back on the floor. I had a 4000 stall converter in it and it ran pretty strong at the track, but on the road it would tach 3500 at 50 mph. This car is not transportation but I live 30 miles from my shop where I keep it and would like to bring it home once in a while. I have been researching converters and now I am really undecided on stall speed to go with, I trailer the car to both the 1/4 and 1/8 tracks in my area. The cam specs say 2400 to 6400 I know you guys have lots of bad ass Z's out there and have resolved this problem. I like everyone else have a limited budget but want to get riding. ******* Racing has converters for $250 Help! Thanks, Skip
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The cam is 505/530 valve lift with the 1.6 roller rockers it is 530/563 the duration is 282/272 or 272/282 I can't remember the lobe seperation is 112* I liked the 4000 exept with the 350 trans with no lock up it was terrible on the highway almost like running in second gear, I can buy a Hughes 3000 that a friend of a friend just bought and doesn't like, ******* Racing on E-bay has stalls with Torrington bearings and anti balooning plates for nitrious @ $255 I don't have any idea about the efficiencies but I have spent about $8000 cash on this car including buying it in the last 6 months so like most everone else my budget is pretty thin and I want to get riding again. I have two groups that I talk to one group of 5 street cars all 11 second cars loved the 4000 and think I should stay with one. The other group are racers with 9 second cars and think a 4000 with my puny little engine is rediculous, I guess they know more about going real fast but low 11's is about as fast as I intend to go. you running a 3400 tell me how it does, [email protected] to 60 mph. I was thinking of trying a 3500 P.S. I see you in the 12's soon.
i dont know, because of the lt's strong lowend i would have the stall around 3200ish
I decided to split the difference and go with a 3750 stall. It is going back in tonight. Jaberwaki 11.5 is strong are those front wheels touching the ground? It looks like a pretty hard launch.
I heard of a guy putting a push-button lock-up something or other on his car... For when he was driving on the highway and didn't want the slipping
skipjobe said:I decided to split the difference and go with a 3750 stall. It is going back in tonight. Jaberwaki 11.5 is strong are those front wheels touching the ground? It looks like a pretty hard launch.
thanks,
11.5 is what we ran without ever diaing her in, something was really holding it back she had 11.1x in her i know it... but next season we are comming back much much stronger.... it wont be 11 nothing
to answer the other question, no there is about 4"s of air under both front tires, i dont like pulling that much tire for racing, but i set the suspencion soft in front for that run so i could get a wheels up pic..
it onlt ran 11.7 that run... heres the vid... it cut a 1.52 60' http://ls1sounds.com/temp/jaber/Jaber.wmv
is this true?? has anyone else heard of this it would be awesome if it were true!CamTom12 said:I heard of a guy putting a push-button lock-up something or other on his car... For when he was driving on the highway and didn't want the slipping
Yes its certainly possible, just run wires to a switch from the lock-up solenoid. I'd personally rather the PCM do it for me though...less hassle.
TH350 is a non-lock up job. Dont think you can just add a button to make it lock if it doesn't have a lock up clutch in the converter.
There were lock-up TH350s built....the last few years of GM cars to get them new were lock ups. They just weren't electronic lock-up...I was mixing my subjects talking about PCM-lock up...forgot we were back on TH350s.
I run an ATI 3600 and love it. A stall is going to act differently in each vehicle based on many things such as weight, gear ratio, tire size, cam duration, port velocity, compression, ect, ect... The converter is one of the most important pieces of the combo. Without the right quality one, you will never see your car's potential. I made the mistake of buying a cheap one the first time. The rpms stayed way too high just like you are describing, a waste of 300 dollars. With all of the work that you have done, don't cheat yourself out of enjoying it by looking for a deal on a stall. Best of luck to you. BTW- I run a TH350 as well.
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