I found this info and thought someone might get something out of it.
Here is some basic info I found, and thought some one might learn something from it.
To start off with, if you have a bone stock car,
Breathing - the stock induction and exhaust is a choking agent. Imagine trying to run a 100 yard dash breathing through a straw. Get a lid, high flow filter and a good exh system. If you have the talent and proper tools, you can port your TB to help a little.
Headers & Y-pipe (or true duals) can be expensive but well worth it and will be a must if future mods involve N2O and/or heads/cam upgrade.
*note-headers and ORY are known to put 25+rwhp on stock motors
Suspension & safety - If you invest in any suspension components, it should be SFC's (subframe connectors) and a STB (strut tower brace) first.
Things like LCA's (lower control arms) PHR (pan hard rod) and Torque arms can come later but one thing I highly suggest is a driveshaft loop, unless you decide to invest in a Tq arm with one integrated onto it, i.e. Spohn.
Most NHRA sanctioned tracks will require a loop if running drag radials or stickier. I have been to a few IHRA and they really don't care unless you're running DOT slicks or actual slicks.
*note - If lowering your vehicle, remember you will need the relocation brackets (weld on or bolt on) for your LCA's. You can drive without them but you will get severe wheel hop when hard launching. The lowering puts the driveline angle to a negative state and results in wheel hop which = broken axles, etc.
Tuning - Too many ways to go on this subject but when doing self-tuning, it is up to you on which way you go.
For the easiest, Handhelds are very good for basic changes and ease of use.
Predator, Vinci, Superchips, Crane are very good products. Vinci also offers installed programs for theirs cams. But be sure to read the directions carefully. For they are set for their cams with their rockers, etc.
On the other hand, LS1edit, HPTuners, and EFI Live are more complex programs which allow you to change just about every parameter in you PCM.
Do not be afraid of this if your are a beginner. There are many, many sites and forums to help with these programs. To include that each program has thier own forums in which to help you. It just takes some searching and a whole lot of reading, AND a little experimenting on your own
"Oh, and alot of time" but well worth it.
Internal time - Cams can be an excellent upgrade if done to your specifics needs. "Bigger is NOT always better".
If you're not sure, there are literally thousands of threads on this subject. The best advice is to contact the cam grinder of your choice and ask them and they can recommend the best grind for your application. (if using N2O w/ bigger than stock cam, get a cam with split duration having a larger exh duration)
*note - make sure you also get the proper springs, pushrods, etc or you just wasted your money and you motor.
- heads - Good part of a cam install for maximum hp gain with cam, but not always necessary. This is probably the most expensive portion of building a high performance engine. I worked in a cyl head shop for years and can atest to why... Alot of work involved!!!
Driveline - 2 common variables here. A4 (auto 4spd) or M6 (Manual 6 spd)
If using an auto, a Stall converter is an excellent upgrade and will be a must when larger cam is installed. (What is a stall??? I will be posting that in another thread after this in the driveline section.)
When upgrading a TC (torque converter), usually when going larger thaqn 3000 stall, tuning will be required, but not always.
M6 - Here is where practice and more practice is involved. Staging launching, and shifting takes alot of practice to be consistant. The M6 is much better for daily driving when having a cammed motor, but the downfall is your are more prone to breaking parts, missing shifts (over-revving at the same time), and a number of other expensive things.
But the good part is you put much more hp to the ground and even more when A4's go to a bigger stall. But the high stall A4's are more consistant on launches.
A plus is that M6's are just plain fun to drive and very good if into Auto-X.
Forced Induction - This area I am not real familiar in but I can definately say that the STS Turbo kit kicks ass and can do wonders on a bone stock car. (I seen it)
Superchargers, this is your personal preference and out of my league.
N2O - Now this is fun - Nitrous can be very fun if dealt with correctly.
2 maintypes of systems
1. Dry kit - utilizes 1 solenoid for a small shot of just n2o and allows the vehicles PCM to adjust for more fuel. Note the word "small"
2. Wet kit - Here you have 2 solenoids that provide n2o and fuel for a larger "shot".
I highly suggest not varying from the manufacture's jet recommendations for a certain hp shot. And also a window switch is highly, highly advisable, especially for you M6 guys/gals.
Here is some basic info I found, and thought some one might learn something from it.
To start off with, if you have a bone stock car,
Breathing - the stock induction and exhaust is a choking agent. Imagine trying to run a 100 yard dash breathing through a straw. Get a lid, high flow filter and a good exh system. If you have the talent and proper tools, you can port your TB to help a little.
Headers & Y-pipe (or true duals) can be expensive but well worth it and will be a must if future mods involve N2O and/or heads/cam upgrade.
*note-headers and ORY are known to put 25+rwhp on stock motors
Suspension & safety - If you invest in any suspension components, it should be SFC's (subframe connectors) and a STB (strut tower brace) first.
Things like LCA's (lower control arms) PHR (pan hard rod) and Torque arms can come later but one thing I highly suggest is a driveshaft loop, unless you decide to invest in a Tq arm with one integrated onto it, i.e. Spohn.
Most NHRA sanctioned tracks will require a loop if running drag radials or stickier. I have been to a few IHRA and they really don't care unless you're running DOT slicks or actual slicks.
*note - If lowering your vehicle, remember you will need the relocation brackets (weld on or bolt on) for your LCA's. You can drive without them but you will get severe wheel hop when hard launching. The lowering puts the driveline angle to a negative state and results in wheel hop which = broken axles, etc.
Tuning - Too many ways to go on this subject but when doing self-tuning, it is up to you on which way you go.
For the easiest, Handhelds are very good for basic changes and ease of use.
Predator, Vinci, Superchips, Crane are very good products. Vinci also offers installed programs for theirs cams. But be sure to read the directions carefully. For they are set for their cams with their rockers, etc.
On the other hand, LS1edit, HPTuners, and EFI Live are more complex programs which allow you to change just about every parameter in you PCM.
Do not be afraid of this if your are a beginner. There are many, many sites and forums to help with these programs. To include that each program has thier own forums in which to help you. It just takes some searching and a whole lot of reading, AND a little experimenting on your own
"Oh, and alot of time" but well worth it.
Internal time - Cams can be an excellent upgrade if done to your specifics needs. "Bigger is NOT always better".
If you're not sure, there are literally thousands of threads on this subject. The best advice is to contact the cam grinder of your choice and ask them and they can recommend the best grind for your application. (if using N2O w/ bigger than stock cam, get a cam with split duration having a larger exh duration)
*note - make sure you also get the proper springs, pushrods, etc or you just wasted your money and you motor.
- heads - Good part of a cam install for maximum hp gain with cam, but not always necessary. This is probably the most expensive portion of building a high performance engine. I worked in a cyl head shop for years and can atest to why... Alot of work involved!!!
Driveline - 2 common variables here. A4 (auto 4spd) or M6 (Manual 6 spd)
If using an auto, a Stall converter is an excellent upgrade and will be a must when larger cam is installed. (What is a stall??? I will be posting that in another thread after this in the driveline section.)
When upgrading a TC (torque converter), usually when going larger thaqn 3000 stall, tuning will be required, but not always.
M6 - Here is where practice and more practice is involved. Staging launching, and shifting takes alot of practice to be consistant. The M6 is much better for daily driving when having a cammed motor, but the downfall is your are more prone to breaking parts, missing shifts (over-revving at the same time), and a number of other expensive things.
But the good part is you put much more hp to the ground and even more when A4's go to a bigger stall. But the high stall A4's are more consistant on launches.
A plus is that M6's are just plain fun to drive and very good if into Auto-X.
Forced Induction - This area I am not real familiar in but I can definately say that the STS Turbo kit kicks ass and can do wonders on a bone stock car. (I seen it)
Superchargers, this is your personal preference and out of my league.
N2O - Now this is fun - Nitrous can be very fun if dealt with correctly.
2 maintypes of systems
1. Dry kit - utilizes 1 solenoid for a small shot of just n2o and allows the vehicles PCM to adjust for more fuel. Note the word "small"
2. Wet kit - Here you have 2 solenoids that provide n2o and fuel for a larger "shot".
I highly suggest not varying from the manufacture's jet recommendations for a certain hp shot. And also a window switch is highly, highly advisable, especially for you M6 guys/gals.
