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Discussion Starter #1
So my SES light came on today about 3-5 minutes after cold start with no other symptoms. Took it to Advance Auto for the scan and came up with P1441 EVAP System Flow During Non-Purge.

I've also been experiencing a gas smell which I brought to my dealer's attention late last year, they tell me nothing's wrong other than a cracked line which they replaced.

I picked up the purge valve from Advance Auto hoping this will fix it. Car has 38650 miles.

Any other ideas that I can look at before taking it to the dealer again? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Trying to remove it from the bracket -- how is this removed? Do you need to remove the bracket? If so, how is the bracket removed? Thanks!!
 

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Figured it out. Needed to use a 7mm socket and 3 inch extension. Replaced the solenoid, started it up, idled a little better than before, no ses after warmup. Hopefully it stays that way.

Also tried blowing into the old part and was able to blow right through, so I believe that part really did fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Today I decided to tap the original valve and after a minute of tapping it moderately, I see tiny pellets come out. So I guess my charcoal canister is shot.

How hard is it to replace the canister?
 

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Today I decided to tap the original valve and after a minute of tapping it moderately, I see tiny pellets come out. So I guess my charcoal canister is shot.

How hard is it to replace the canister?
It does not necessarily mean the canister is shot, but that you sucked some of the charcoal from it because of your purge valve being stuck open during times of high vacuum. The canister is in the LR fender well and is not too difficult to expose. Open the vacuum line to the engine at both ends and blow it out to vacate any charcoal in the line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It does not necessarily mean the canister is shot, but that you sucked some of the charcoal from it because of your purge valve being stuck open during times of high vacuum. The canister is in the LR fender well and is not too difficult to expose. Open the vacuum line to the engine at both ends and blow it out to vacate any charcoal in the line.
Thanks shoebox, but shouldn't there be no way for those pellets to escape the canister? I was under the impression there is a filter in the canister that prevents this, and if that breaks away the pellet can go thru the hoses.

Any chance some of the pellets made it into the engine causing damage?
 

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All I can say is I have heard of this before (charcoal reaching the valve). If any got through into the engine, it is way too late now. Whether it would even cause any kind of damage is speculative. Blowing out the line will keep any more from going through. Any compromise to the canister is also unknown. Not sure just what there is there (besides the charcoal) to cause any real issue. If in doubt, replace the canister. If there is a filter to keep back the charcoal, the excess vacuum may have compromised it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Check engine light came back on again, same P1441 code (crazy since it passed inspection a month ago). Took solenoid out and was able to blow through, tapped solenoid and some charcoal pellets came out.

Been smelling lots of gas from the rear lately as well.

Shop replaced charcoal canister but I am not sure if they actually blew through the lines (even though I asked them to).

One thing I found interesting is a few days before the light came back on, cold starts / idle were smoother than before.

Other than replacing the charcoal canister and the solenoid, what else should I be looking at? Thanks!
 

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Did you check out the vacuum switch next to the solenoid. That switch is a N/C with no vacuum to canister (purge solenoid NOT activated) Vac switch has ground on both sides of the switch with no vacuum applied. The purple wire is pulled up by the PCM when it detects a vacuum. The P1441 says the solenoid was not activated , but the vacuum switch indicated a vacuum on the line. Since you replaced the solenoid could be the vac switch is getting stuck open. You could disconnect the solenoid connector and beat up the vac switch to make sure the N/C contacts are solid and purple stays at ground.
 
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