[Jackson4308]

Hey guys! I'm new to the forums. I'm looking at getting a cam setup for a 94 trans am. I'm looking at the LT4 hot cam or the cc503. Whichever cam I go with I plan on running these supporting valve train components. I just wanted a second opinion from some of you guys to see if this setup would work well. My goal is to have a fun daily driver with reliability. So this is a list of components I've gathered based on my current and future goals.

Car has 117k on the clock.

Here's the list for my cam swap.

- LT4 Hot Cam or CC503 (haven't decided yet) I won't be doing a torque converter right away so that's what makes me hesitate about the cc503 cam. It won't see the track that much if at all.

- Patriot Gold Dual Spring kit (comes w/ bases, locks, valve seals, and titanium retainers)

- Trickflow Chromoly pushrods (stock 7.200in length)

- 1.6rr Comp Cam Magnums SA 3/8" stud (I won't be pushing much past (if at all) 6k with stock bottom end).

- LT1 replacements lifters or LS7? Haven't been able to find much info on lifters. Any help appreciated!

- OEM Timing chain

- All gaskets

- Electric water pump

Optispark and water pump has been already replaced. I just would like a second opinion from you guys. Thanks in advance!

 

[bowtienut]

Well, you asked for an opinion, so here goes:
Neither will "work well" with the stock torque converter.
That's a lot of money and work to put into the motor for nothing more than a healthy sounding idle and a gain in topend power that you might not get to enjoy very often.
My advice is to shelve thoughts of a cam change until you've done the supporting mods and rebuild the bottom end to make you feel safe above 6k rpm. Do you have headers and exhaust upgrade already? If not, don't expect much power from a cam change. Stock A4 gearing?
What you're contemplating here will result in a weaker performing package than a bone stock LT1 with drivetrain and intake/exhaust upgrades.
But.........if you insist, I'd skip the Hotcam. The CC503's better lobes and extra 2 deg of advance don't compromise low speed torque as its higher .050" duration numbers would suggest.

 

[Mystery Bird]

In order to get those cams to idle right you will be holding both feet on the brakes at a light with the stock converter. It just wont be fun without all the other supporting mods to go along with it.

 

[BALLSS]

I will add:

replace valve stem seals (FelPro viton)
consider 7/16 RR but you will need 7/16 rocker studs (ARP) for less flex.

a tune will be required for the cam.

The torque converter and cam selection should be considered as corresponding parts. Either of the cam selections you note, IMHO, would require a higher stall to allow the rpms to stay within the higher operating RPM range the cam makes power

you can run milder cams with stock converters and heads. The Crane 227 is one. yeah a higher stall TQ will enhance but it will provide more power than stock.

replacing a cam on a 117k motor and then spining it 6k+...many would argue you should at least re-bearing the car and possibly hone and ring it. Once you start just adding a part within the engine to make more power on a 100k mi + motor you really want to consider the bigger picture as added RPM will not be something used motors like

 

[Jackson4308]

Thanks for the input guys. I should have clarified about the supporting mods. I have Pacesetter LT's, o/r y, and a magnaflow catback, CAI, and tranny cooler. I thought about the 7/16" rr as well. Probably the route I will go. I'll probably end up saving up until I can buy the torque converter with the cam and supporting valvetrain. Thanks guys!