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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody in here ever used seafoam? Whats the purpose n how do i kno if i need to use it or not?
 

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I have several times and swear by it but its getting more expensive. The purpose is to clean the gunk off the inside of your engine and fuel system. The way you can tell if you need it is well: has the engine been taken care of maintenance wise? How many miles since last clean, does it idle strange, run strange, loss of power i.e. the car doesn't seem to have as much anymore, etc etc etc. So how many miles since your last service?

This is the procedure 3 cans of Seafoam and 1 can of Deep Creep...1 in the tank (full to half full, read back of can), 2nd can run through your engine by using your brake booster hose (good source of vacuum) take two people. During this step its important to keep the car at about 3000-4000 rpms in order to keep car engine from stalling. Just before the end of this can stall the engine out with the remaining Seafoam or open a new can and do it or just let it run out but make sure you turn off the engine at this point if the car does not stall. Now the count down begines. 40min to an hour. (After this can if you want you can run the other through its up to you). If your engine is bad I would wait until you believe everything has ran through your converter A GOOD WEEK OF DRIVING. Now for the Deep Creep...your car is now off so spray a healthy dose inside your intake trying to get into the runners and clean your throttle blade too. I use an old tooth brush. Time has ticked away and now you go to start it but it doesnt want to start but it will. After you get it running keep it running and wait for the clouds of white smoke. After it idles by itself take it for a ride and you are good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have several times and swear by it but its getting more expensive. The purpose is to clean the gunk off the inside of your engine and fuel system. The way you can tell if you need it is well: has the engine been taken care of maintenance wise? How many miles since last clean, does it idle strange, run strange, loss of power i.e. the car doesn't seem to have as much anymore, etc etc etc. So how many miles since your last service?

This is the procedure 3 cans of Seafoam and 1 can of Deep Creep...1 in the tank (full to half full, read back of can), 2nd can run through your engine by using your brake booster hose (good source of vacuum) take two people. During this step its important to keep the car at about 3000-4000 rpms in order to keep car engine from stalling. Just before the end of this can stall the engine out with the remaining Seafoam or open a new can and do it or just let it run out but make sure you turn off the engine at this point if the car does not stall. Now the count down begines. 40min to an hour. (After this can if you want you can run the other through its up to you). If your engine is bad I would wait until you believe everything has ran through your converter A GOOD WEEK OF DRIVING. Now for the Deep Creep...your car is now off so spray a healthy dose inside your intake trying to get into the runners and clean your throttle blade too. I use an old tooth brush. Time has ticked away and now you go to start it but it doesnt want to start but it will. After you get it running keep it running and wait for the clouds of white smoke. After it idles by itself take it for a ride and you are good.
Hey man sorry it took so long to get bk to u but here the run down on the car..I seen the car on Craigslist n the guy that had wasnt mechanically inclined at all. He had no idea wat a 4.3 or a 5.7 was so I took a chance n rode to bowling green,Ky to check it out. 5.7! He told me ovr the phone it had an antifreeze leak but it was tranny fluid from the line in the radiator. He wanted $1400 but I ended up givn him like $900 sumthin. The mufflers were rotted out n flapping n making noise but I drove it all the way bk to memphis. I have no idea how he cared for the car if there was any care at all. I dnt evn kno hw many miles are on the car becuz the odometer doesn't wrk properly. I changed the oil about 100miles ago but the car hasn't been driven because the bleeder screw for the coolant jumped out n ruined my MSD opti.
 

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How new is your option? The reason I ask is because MSD will repair/ replace your optj within one year. If older than that then call them and explain to them what happened. There opti's are SUPPOSE to be WATERPROOF but they're not. I spray plastic dip or rtv it. MSD may fix it due to it not sealing the way its suppose to but I dunno. They repaired my MSD after three years for free. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How new is your option? The reason I ask is because MSD will repair/ replace your optj within one year. If older than that then call them and explain to them what happened. There opti's are SUPPOSE to be WATERPROOF but they're not. I spray plastic dip or rtv it. MSD may fix it due to it not sealing the way its suppose to but I dunno. They repaired my MSD after three years for free. Good luck!
Oh the opti was brand new hadnt had it on a full month but I did send it back and they repaired it or sent me a new one i jus nevr put it back on. I have the factory opti on the MSD is still in my closet. Yea my year was up in July of last year tho. I was honestly thinkn of selling it and gettin a brand new GMPP opti. In your opinion which do u think is better. Also man i appreciate your takin time to give feedback. It means a lot to me. Thanx..
 

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No problem Beelo, its what this forum is for. In my opinion the MSD and GMPP are the same as longevity and reliability. However, MSD has a better cap and rotor set up ( brass terminals). Plus if your car is not tuned you're able to advance the timing up to 7degree. That said you have to ensure your advancement mechanism is properly installed and complete. In my case my timing scree didn't work. So while I was rebuilding my entire car I took it apart and realized something didn't make sense. I called and explained my history with them and the kind lady replaced it. This is after about five years. Pretty cool huh! Well when I got it back it was correct. I got everything ready to as far as car being put back together when my OCD kicked in. Its gonna be a few more weeks.
If you install your MSDREL LOCKTIGHT YOUR ROTOR SCREWS and install the cap. Clean and prep the option and plastic dip the seam where the cap and housing meet. Tape off what you don't want plastic dipped. Make sure excellent coverage. Then install opti with cap and everything on. Easier than you think! If u have any questions just ask. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No problem Beelo, its what this forum is for. In my opinion the MSD and GMPP are the same as longevity and reliability. However, MSD has a better cap and rotor set up ( brass terminals). Plus if your car is not tuned you're able to advance the timing up to 7degree. That said you have to ensure your advancement mechanism is properly installed and complete. In my case my timing scree didn't work. So while I was rebuilding my entire car I took it apart and realized something didn't make sense. I called and explained my history with them and the kind lady replaced it. This is after about five years. Pretty cool huh! Well when I got it back it was correct. I got everything ready to as far as car being put back together when my OCD kicked in. Its gonna be a few more weeks.
If you install your MSDREL LOCKTIGHT YOUR ROTOR SCREWS and install the cap. Clean and prep the option and plastic dip the seam where the cap and housing meet. Tape off what you don't want plastic dipped. Make sure excellent coverage. Then install opti with cap and everything on. Easier than you think! If u have any questions just ask. Good luck!
Ok will do that. Thanx again man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No problem Beelo, its what this forum is for. In my opinion the MSD and GMPP are the same as longevity and reliability. However, MSD has a better cap and rotor set up ( brass terminals). Plus if your car is not tuned you're able to advance the timing up to 7degree. That said you have to ensure your advancement mechanism is properly installed and complete. In my case my timing scree didn't work. So while I was rebuilding my entire car I took it apart and realized something didn't make sense. I called and explained my history with them and the kind lady replaced it. This is after about five years. Pretty cool huh! Well when I got it back it was correct. I got everything ready to as far as car being put back together when my OCD kicked in. Its gonna be a few more weeks.
If you install your MSDREL LOCKTIGHT YOUR ROTOR SCREWS and install the cap. Clean and prep the option and plastic dip the seam where the cap and housing meet. Tape off what you don't want plastic dipped. Make sure excellent coverage. Then install opti with cap and everything on. Easier than you think! If u have any questions just ask. Good luck!
Hey USMC let me ask u this since no one seems to wanna answer it....is addin an x-pipe to stock manifolds a bad idea evn tho i plan on addin headers in the near future? 2.5's all the way out cats are deleted and so are resonators 40 series flow's are the mufflers
 

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You add an X-pipe any time you want but be logical about it when you start buying parts. Build for your future plans. meaning an exhaust system that easily adaptable when you go LT's. Typically though an X-pipe reserved for aftermarket exhaust systems. If you still have your stock manifolds you can port them for much better flow. The new corvette manifolds actually outflow shorties (from what I read anyways). I would ditch the flowmasters (junk..commercial hype) and use a straight thru resonator or race series muffler. Check out www.mandrelbendsolutions.com they offer some inexpensive good quality exhaust parts. When you add headers in the future go stainless if the wallet is big enough. But you can get OBX for under $400. I will be using those when I replace my ceramic race pacesetters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You add an X-pipe any time you want but be logical about it when you start buying parts. Build for your future plans. meaning an exhaust system that easily adaptable when you go LT's. Typically though an X-pipe reserved for aftermarket exhaust systems. If you still have your stock manifolds you can port them for much better flow. The new corvette manifolds actually outflow shorties (from what I read anyways). I would ditch the flowmasters (junk..commercial hype) and use a straight thru resonator or race series muffler. Check out www.mandrelbendsolutions.com they offer some inexpensive good quality exhaust parts. When you add headers in the future go stainless if the wallet is big enough. But you can get OBX for under $400. I will be using those when I replace my ceramic race pacesetters.
Oh ok. I was actually thinkn about goin with the BBK shorties for the B-Body but erybody is telling me to go LT's tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You add an X-pipe any time you want but be logical about it when you start buying parts. Build for your future plans. meaning an exhaust system that easily adaptable when you go LT's. Typically though an X-pipe reserved for aftermarket exhaust systems. If you still have your stock manifolds you can port them for much better flow. The new corvette manifolds actually outflow shorties (from what I read anyways). I would ditch the flowmasters (junk..commercial hype) and use a straight thru resonator or race series muffler. Check out www.mandrelbendsolutions.com they offer some inexpensive good quality exhaust parts. When you add headers in the future go stainless if the wallet is big enough. But you can get OBX for under $400. I will be using those when I replace my ceramic race pacesetters.
So im actually researching now all of the B-Body LT's that give the less headaches as far as clearance n installation becuz i wanna do this myself
 

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Shorties are a waste to me however some here dont mind them. Mostly for ground cleanance reasons. LT's will give you the best return for the money and hoenstly for a B-body you guys have kinds of room. If installing becomes and issue just grab a buddy and install one side at a time by taking out your engine mount bolt and using a jack or cherry picker to hurry and slip it in. Thats how I do it and Its not hard at all that way on an F-body. I would purchase my parts from the links I gave you and build your own custom exhaust for cheaper than you can buy the whole system. Do you need aluminum heads? I have a set you can buy if interested? Asking $300. I wanna buy some stuff but cash is really tight. If you decide to upgrade later and have more funds buy the AFR or TrickFlows. I can give you a good set up if interested?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Shorties are a waste to me however some here dont mind them. Mostly for ground cleanance reasons. LT's will give you the best return for the money and hoenstly for a B-body you guys have kinds of room. If installing becomes and issue just grab a buddy and install one side at a time by taking out your engine mount bolt and using a jack or cherry picker to hurry and slip it in. Thats how I do it and Its not hard at all that way on an F-body. I would purchase my parts from the links I gave you and build your own custom exhaust for cheaper than you can buy the whole system. Do you need aluminum heads? I have a set you can buy if interested? Asking $300. I wanna buy some stuff but cash is really tight. If you decide to upgrade later and have more funds buy the AFR or TrickFlows. I can give you a good set up if interested?
Oh ok yea i was tryin to find a good set of mufflers to replace the flowmasters anyway. Tryna get a different tone dats y the x-pipe and headers idea came about besides hp gain n yea i was thinkn of addin aluminum heads but i still have my LT1 on the ground from my 95 Z that i had to get rid of. But i may cn find sumone to get em off your hands. N yea im gonna check those links out becuz i kinda wanna do erything without havin a shop deal with my car
 

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If you're frugal like myself check out KOspeed on ebay. Also, there is another person on ebay too selling stuff like KO but I forget the name. I think it has performance in it tho. I have to search because that was were I was gonna purchase an aftermarket aluminum radiator. It looked to be pretty good quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you're frugal like myself check out KOspeed on ebay. Also, there is another person on ebay too selling stuff like KO but I forget the name. I think it has performance in it tho. I have to search because that was were I was gonna purchase an aftermarket aluminum radiator. It looked to be pretty good quality.
Ok cool. Ill do that
 

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Recently added Seafoam to my 95 B4U Caprice LT1 transplant out of 95 Impala SS. SS engine was nasty! Drove it to Portland, Maine (75 mi.) to the Stealership where my Son works. He said it came all green and sh!t, runs fine oil looks great now.
Also did this to the Wifes GMC Safari with a stuck lifter, very noisy! Within 20 min. of adding to the idling engine, the rapping completely went away! I swear by the stuff!
 

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Charismatic racing is the name of the other place.
 
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