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hey guys.
I finally got my car started the other day. it sounded great. I took it around the neighborhood and while i was out, i began hearing this distinct dinging sound that I knew was in the valve covers. I got home, let it cool off for an hour, and then took the drivers side valve cover off. the rocker stud was completely out of its thread. I had heard that sound for probably 3 minutes, cuz i had to get back home. I am pretty sure that if a rocker stud, along with the rocker, and rocker nut, come off of the valve spring, then whichever valve it is will not be opening during that time.
think there could be some damage because of these morons that sent me these heads? THEY installed the rocker studs. THEY told me that these heads were ready to put on once I got them in the mail. If it was an exhaust valve that wasnt opening, should my car have exploded due to the compressed/ignited air and gas mixture being unable to escape? or maybe it went back through the intake manifold.
Should I be worried? If it was an intake valve that was stuck closed, then the compressed gas spark would have ignited and gone out the exhaust without any compressed air.
am I thinking this through correctly?
Should I be worried about starting my car again?
Tomorrow I am going through EVERY rocker stud, loosening it, and putting red threadlocker, and tighening down to 50lb ftof torque, per OEM spec.

AND, oh yeah, 3 OTHER rocker studs were loose near ready to come out as well.
:craz28::craz28::craz28::craz28:
Any thoughts?
 

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Whistles go Whoooooooooo
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That is an unfortunate situation, I think Viper is right on with the advice.Compression test once its back assembled,or if you have a leak down tester you could remove both rocker arms on the questionable cylinder and that would also tell you of any damage. Hopefully because you shut it down pretty quickly,you wont have any damage. DID YOU GET IN TOUCH with the guy that you bought the heads from?
However unfortunate ,this is a good lesson learned about getting work done by
other folks. ed
 

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I have found it easier to do with the engine running at idle, just loosen it until you hear it start ticking then tighten it until it stops and go about a quarter turn, maybe a tad more. I know it does get oil on the manifolds but still It worked, and my engines ran beautifully. Now This method was done on a 305 sbc and a 350 sbc with the regular old distributor, and regular rocker arms. These LT1s if thats what your working with have that opti thing goin on (as you know) So doing it this way could possibly get Oil on it. But In my own opinion, this is the easiest way to do it. Not tryin to start a long line of, No this is the easiest way replys. To every one their own i suppose.
 

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Yeah. If anyone's going to F*#& my car it's going to be me. :)
You better believe that I will bet on myself rather than someone that
I know very little about . If you dont have confidence in your workmanship than thats your problem. By the way, what are you doing
with a good American car anyway??? Shouldnt you be driving a
Jag u wire or something ? ed
 

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rocker studs use 'thread sealant"..not lock tite. TQ 50 ft lbs

if the spring is not broken than valve was held up so there should not have been any damage to the valve. Roll PR on a piece of glass to confirm it did not get bent.

Unfortunately many of us have received heads, short & long blocks from "highly regarded" vendors on this forum and others and found workmanship to be lacking.

beyond the studs....I would check valve spring installed height, which will really suck with heads on a car and motor in the car. Workmanship of the shop that "did" your heads is in ?. You will kill your valve stem seals checking spring height.....so new valve stem seals.

Your call on weather to check the heads out completely and "maybe" the shop guy just FU the one stud....when the phone rang or something. Still BS as you pay to have it done right
 

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Rocker arm studs get quite a work out all the time.

I wouldn't be so fast to blame the shop - rocker studs break all the time from fatigue.

If either vlv doesn't open that cyl just becomes a drag on the engine - it fires maybe once then doesn't get a new fuel/air mix anymore. But rocker studs should have water sealer on them as many times they bust into the head water jacket.
It reads like u installed the heads yourself. Roll the affected p-rods on glass like BALLSS mentioned. If u find u have bent p-rods then your vlv/lifter adjustment was at fault. Hard to admit to but many owners don't realize they adjusted the vlvs wrong and over tightened the rocker adj nut - holds the vlv open and stresses the p-rod. Many owners don't really understand the firing order let alone the when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. Many will collapse the lifter and think thats zero lash and adj from there. Then is denial after that and the problem becomes extremely complex.:lol:
Not to bash anyone here but there are too many experienced wrenches encouraging first timers its too easy when a simple mistake here can eat the whole engine.

Take a good luck at your affected p-rods,
cardo
 
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