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Discussion Starter #1
1997 Z28 A4.
How important is it to remove the exhaust? (Cat back). Mines is stuck on there from the clamps and I can't get it to slide off. I don't have a torch and I really don't want to cut it since it's a relatively newish catback. I have the stock manifolds and dual cats. I rather not remove it from there since the bolts look really bad atleast not till I have headers and a y pipe ready. Which won't be for quite a while.

I read that I need to remove the exhaust in order to allow the engine to tilt down. Can I just remove the panhard bar (top/bottom) and let the exhaust drop? This should give me about 8in before it touches the axle. Is this enough of a tilt to be able to remove the trans?

Suppose I could find out the hard way tomorrow. But if anybody has done it without removing the exhaust. That would be great input.

Everything was going to smooth 馃槥.
 

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If your worried about bolts braking off, get some PB Blaster, or other penetrating oil, and start spraying all the fasteners down. When you spray them, tap them with a small hammer to set up vibrations. Do this 4 times a day for 3 days.

This method allowed me to remove all the rusty exhaust fasteners on a 76 trans am. Without breaking any of them.

2nd suggestion, put a wide heating head on your torch and heat the pipes where they come together. This can break the rust & grime holding them together.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I actually finally got it off today after about 12hrs of messing with it. Finally I got frustrated and decided to heat it up until it turned red. Lol.. then I hit the clamp with a hammer until it got lose and then I wiggled it off.

So there was water or sometype of liquid inside and when I put it down it spilled out boiling hot. Was not expecting that. My face was actually directly under it as I was wiggling it but I decided to move to the side to get more leverage. 馃槰 That would of been extremely painful.

Btw how many bell housing bolts are there holding up the 4L60E on a 97 lt1? All the guides I find and videos say 8 bolts. However I don't have bottom bolts. So I guess the bottom bolts are just for 98+ ls1 cars.

Thanks for the input I really appreciate it. Im a novice so it's my first time removing a tranny. Heck it was my first time using a torch. 馃榿
 

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The only 4l60e trans I have laying around is from a 95 3.4 v6. It's a 60 degree engine rather than a 90 degree engine as lt1 is. But it has no bottom bolt holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah I'm finding there's quite a few differences from ls1 cars.

Another thing I have run into is that the transmission lines don't have that clip you can pull out and allows the transmission lines to simply pull out. Looks like I'll have to take the nut off. Such a tight space tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
32574
Alright finally got it off. 馃榿 Turns out the bell housing bolts are actually 14mm and there are 6 of them.

Can't believe me a novice got my own trans out on my own. Now to rebuild it on my own 馃槄馃槄馃槄 wish me luck.

Trans is surprisingly light. Oh and is my rear main seal bad? Or is it normal for my trans to be completely covered in oil? (I'm guessing not). Even my torque arm was covered in old oil. Pics attached.
32575
32576
 

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Good luck.

Once trans is out, flex plate is only thing that must be removed to get to rear main seal. I alway install a new one when doing trans R & R.

When installing flex plate, make sure you marked the plate so same side is facing trans when you install trans. Believe it or not, but it makes a big difference.

One thing that makes trans install easier is to buy 2 bolts of the same size & thread pitch as top trans bolts. These bolts need to be as long as possible. That way you can support trans at the correct angle as back of engine, while engine is hanging down.

You thread in the long bolts, then you can simply slide the trans along the bolts until it mates with engine. Install other 4 bolts, then remove the 2 top bolts and install the ones that belong there.

Of course a lift & a trans jack would make it easy also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good luck.

Once trans is out, flex plate is only thing that must be removed to get to rear main seal. I alway install a new one when doing trans R & R.

When installing flex plate, make sure you marked the plate so same side is facing trans when you install trans. Believe it or not, but it makes a big difference.

One thing that makes trans install easier is to buy 2 bolts of the same size & thread pitch as top trans bolts. These bolts need to be as long as possible. That way you can support trans at the correct angle as back of engine, while engine is hanging down.

You thread in the long bolts, then you can simply slide the trans along the bolts until it mates with engine. Install other 4 bolts, then remove the 2 top bolts and install the ones that belong there.

Of course a lift & a trans jack would make it easy also.
I'll try that. Currently doing research on the rear main seal.. when I googled it I got several different types of seals.

Looks like my rebuild will take a few more days since I have to order some parts. Ehh this is what I get for not doing enough research.

Btw.. how come ppl always advice against re-using the converter.. but then I also see people buying used converters????

What gives? It's okay to use some else's used converter? But not your own. 馃馃しLol..
 

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The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
Thanks for the tips. I'll look into the flushing off the lines. I'll deff get a cooler but only if my transmission is working after I put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
Okay think I'm going to give in and buy a new converter 馃槚.. I'm looking at this B&M 70419 Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter and B&M 70418 Tork Master 2400 Torque Converter.

They are both 2400 but the holeshot is $556 and the other is $344. 馃 I don't race my car and rarely go wot. So I'm guessing the cheaper one is best for me?

I'm quite a few days away from finishing the rebuild. So far I have it all apart. So In the meantime I'm doing research on
converters.

Does the lt1 4L60E have a 298mm stator shaft? (Can't find this info.)
 
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