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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1997 Z28 A4.
How important is it to remove the exhaust? (Cat back). Mines is stuck on there from the clamps and I can't get it to slide off. I don't have a torch and I really don't want to cut it since it's a relatively newish catback. I have the stock manifolds and dual cats. I rather not remove it from there since the bolts look really bad atleast not till I have headers and a y pipe ready. Which won't be for quite a while.

I read that I need to remove the exhaust in order to allow the engine to tilt down. Can I just remove the panhard bar (top/bottom) and let the exhaust drop? This should give me about 8in before it touches the axle. Is this enough of a tilt to be able to remove the trans?

Suppose I could find out the hard way tomorrow. But if anybody has done it without removing the exhaust. That would be great input.

Everything was going to smooth 馃槥.
 

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If your worried about bolts braking off, get some PB Blaster, or other penetrating oil, and start spraying all the fasteners down. When you spray them, tap them with a small hammer to set up vibrations. Do this 4 times a day for 3 days.

This method allowed me to remove all the rusty exhaust fasteners on a 76 trans am. Without breaking any of them.

2nd suggestion, put a wide heating head on your torch and heat the pipes where they come together. This can break the rust & grime holding them together.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. I actually finally got it off today after about 12hrs of messing with it. Finally I got frustrated and decided to heat it up until it turned red. Lol.. then I hit the clamp with a hammer until it got lose and then I wiggled it off.

So there was water or sometype of liquid inside and when I put it down it spilled out boiling hot. Was not expecting that. My face was actually directly under it as I was wiggling it but I decided to move to the side to get more leverage. 馃槰 That would of been extremely painful.

Btw how many bell housing bolts are there holding up the 4L60E on a 97 lt1? All the guides I find and videos say 8 bolts. However I don't have bottom bolts. So I guess the bottom bolts are just for 98+ ls1 cars.

Thanks for the input I really appreciate it. Im a novice so it's my first time removing a tranny. Heck it was my first time using a torch. 馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah I'm finding there's quite a few differences from ls1 cars.

Another thing I have run into is that the transmission lines don't have that clip you can pull out and allows the transmission lines to simply pull out. Looks like I'll have to take the nut off. Such a tight space tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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Alright finally got it off. 馃榿 Turns out the bell housing bolts are actually 14mm and there are 6 of them.

Can't believe me a novice got my own trans out on my own. Now to rebuild it on my own 馃槄馃槄馃槄 wish me luck.

Trans is surprisingly light. Oh and is my rear main seal bad? Or is it normal for my trans to be completely covered in oil? (I'm guessing not). Even my torque arm was covered in old oil. Pics attached.
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Good luck.

Once trans is out, flex plate is only thing that must be removed to get to rear main seal. I alway install a new one when doing trans R & R.

When installing flex plate, make sure you marked the plate so same side is facing trans when you install trans. Believe it or not, but it makes a big difference.

One thing that makes trans install easier is to buy 2 bolts of the same size & thread pitch as top trans bolts. These bolts need to be as long as possible. That way you can support trans at the correct angle as back of engine, while engine is hanging down.

You thread in the long bolts, then you can simply slide the trans along the bolts until it mates with engine. Install other 4 bolts, then remove the 2 top bolts and install the ones that belong there.

Of course a lift & a trans jack would make it easy also.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good luck.

Once trans is out, flex plate is only thing that must be removed to get to rear main seal. I alway install a new one when doing trans R & R.

When installing flex plate, make sure you marked the plate so same side is facing trans when you install trans. Believe it or not, but it makes a big difference.

One thing that makes trans install easier is to buy 2 bolts of the same size & thread pitch as top trans bolts. These bolts need to be as long as possible. That way you can support trans at the correct angle as back of engine, while engine is hanging down.

You thread in the long bolts, then you can simply slide the trans along the bolts until it mates with engine. Install other 4 bolts, then remove the 2 top bolts and install the ones that belong there.

Of course a lift & a trans jack would make it easy also.
I'll try that. Currently doing research on the rear main seal.. when I googled it I got several different types of seals.

Looks like my rebuild will take a few more days since I have to order some parts. Ehh this is what I get for not doing enough research.

Btw.. how come ppl always advice against re-using the converter.. but then I also see people buying used converters????

What gives? It's okay to use some else's used converter? But not your own. 馃馃しLol..
 

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The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
Thanks for the tips. I'll look into the flushing off the lines. I'll deff get a cooler but only if my transmission is working after I put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
The old converter is full of old trans fluid. It is also a good source of metal shavings that would be inside it.

It's also a good idea to not buy a used converter. Get a new or rebuilt one. Also flush your trans cooler lines and the cooler part of radiator.

But a better choice would be to buy a actual trans fluid cooler and install it. The amount of cooling the stock, in the rad , cooler does, is very little.
Okay think I'm going to give in and buy a new converter 馃槚.. I'm looking at this B&M 70419 Holeshot 2400 Torque Converter and B&M 70418 Tork Master 2400 Torque Converter.

They are both 2400 but the holeshot is $556 and the other is $344. 馃 I don't race my car and rarely go wot. So I'm guessing the cheaper one is best for me?

I'm quite a few days away from finishing the rebuild. So far I have it all apart. So In the meantime I'm doing research on
converters.

Does the lt1 4L60E have a 298mm stator shaft? (Can't find this info.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Umm..I finished the rear of the trans today. Checked all my clearances and test using a air compressor. Everything seems good. I got super stuck on the spring assembly since the compressor tool I got from ebay sucked. I had to modify it but I'm getting there tho.. slow and steady. Tomorrow I do the 3-4clutch assembly. Mines is totally burned.
Also my old sunshell had came apart. Tho I never had any of the symptoms associated with that. Glad I read everyone's recommendation to order a monster one. Also I did end up ordering a new rebuilt converter (2200). And I received my cooler today. I order a hayden one from Amazon. Has good reviews. Tho I'm kinda shocked at how light it is..馃..(cheap??)

Some pics. (Btw I don't have a garage so I did this outside on the cement for disassembly, for the rebuild I use the patio table.) Not ideal but it's what I have to work with.

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Used coins and taped it to the black bar the width of the spring assembly. To be able to remove the snap ring. (I bought cheap snap ring pliers.. 馃槚馃槗what a pain.)
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I've been lucky no rain. Trying my best to keep dirt/debre away from parts. The bell housing fits nicely in 2 trash bags. I may have to finish this on the concrete closer to my car. It's starting to get heavy and I'm on my own. 馃 Tho I wonder if I can carry it back to the front yard. Once it's complete. I'm also wondering if the table will even support the weight.. it's a glass table 馃ぃ.
 

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When installing the input shaft drum with low/reverse drum , this seems to be the hardest part of reassembly for many people.

You have to index 3 sets of parts to the mating parts in the case. You can't install the oil pump until all those parts mate correctly. Your know that all is well when oil pump can be dropped in and it sits flush with case.

And, have you used trans assembly lube on all the parts you reassembled? It's vital to have everything lubed so there will be no dry parts on start up.

And when you rebuild oil pump, get the 10 vane kit rather than the 13 vane kit. This is because, if engine revs high on start up, before oil has started to flow through trans, damage can be done by having the 13 vane oil pump kit.

My old 90 camaro always revs up to about 2500 rpm on start up. This would fry trans if it had the 13 vane pump.
 

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If your not married, work on trans inside your house. Much cleaner in there. If your married, carry on as you are. Or take trans to a friends house who will let you work on it inside. Dirt is the enemy.

Complete trans weighs about 130 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks. Yes I used assembly lube/grease. Awesome tips I'll make sure to reference it consistently.

Knowing it weights 130lb is extremely helpful. I should be able to carry it back to the front yard. I've learned so much already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Is this the rear main seal?
  1. FEL-PRO Rear Main Seals BS40656
According to AutoZone and rock auto. But I see older post have a different part #.

looking through the forum. I see some say to install dry others say to use some oil? And to use rtv for the gasket? (Looking for a guide.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just want to verify that I got this right.
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All the information I can find is that the drum has to be below the mounting bolt holes for the pump. I believe I have it as far down as I can have it. I have taken it off and back down several times and this is as far as I get. I can't find any measurements on this.

Is there a way to verify that I do have it all the way down? I'm guessing this is what cocobolo meant by the pump sitting flush.

Oh and it's taken me a while because my other car decided to break down and since it's my daily it took priority. 馃槄
 

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The way to know is to set the pump into place without o rings, and bolt down. If pump bolts down correctly then your good. If pump doesn't bolt down correctly, you'll need to go back and make sure all internal parts are correctly indexed into case.

Don't force pump down. If it doesn't go in smoothly, there's a problem. Most common problem for 1st timers is getting all the parts to index together correctly.

Did you set all the selective components so the correct clearance is obtained. On the 4L60E, there's about 5 different selective thrust washers, snap rings, & backing plates. If enough clearance isn't in each clutch group then problems will occur.

The most important one, as far as the oil pump going down is the thrust bearing in the main input drum. That's the large drum with the input shaft attached. If clearance is too tight, oil pump will be damaged when trans gets hot enough for expansion to take place

96 service manual at the following link has a rebuild section for the 4L60E. It has good info.
www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

Also the 4L60E service manual from ATSG is geared to the novist. It will have steep by step instructions, and what to look for when inspecting parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Btw. My car is up and running 馃榿馃檪 atleast for now it shifted fine, I filled everything up. While I was at it I went ahead and installed longtubes 馃う馃槱 biggest pain ever.

Think I've officially done the hardest things to do on this car. (Remove/rebuild 4l60e, install longtubes.) I still can't believe I did it me a total noob.. Hopefully it last a month and then more months 馃檪.

However I do have some issues with other things that I didn't have before the rebuild/longtubes But I'll make a separate post as It has to do with my temp gauge and oil pressure gauge.

I really want to thank you guys so much. My car has literally sat for 10yrs because Everytime I had the money to fix my trans I had some type of emergency. And I never had the confidence of doing it myself, I kept reading how you needed alot of experience to do a auto trans so it always intimidated me. (I used the transmission bench YouTube guide.) And the other links you guys posted here.

This was literally a either I fix it or I take it to the junkyard. Do or die sort of say. And if I did junk it I was going to stop being an auto enthusiast and give up on cars forever.

thank you.
 
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