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Is one of your gaskets in heaven? Go to summit, jeggs, rockauto or some company equivlant. It will more than likely be cheaper and better quality. If you to your local mechanic hell charge more and sell you crap.
 

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At o reillys here in my little town n NC, 18.99 for one. I cant remember the brand they said but i do know its a good one.
 

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Are you wanting to know the part price or the labor and parts price a mechanic will charge you. If you go to a shop bring your smelling salts and a jar of Vaseline with you, because you will be hit hard for a head gasket change on your lt1 engine.
 

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Yea man, shop labor is usually 60-100.00 an hour lol
 

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I got quoted about 1800 and felt that was a good price. Given they will check the heads and new gaskets fluids etc... Figured it was about a grand for labor.. not bad.. I ended up doing myself but anyhow. Price will depend on where ya are in the country too..
 

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it is not a small job at all on an LT1. re&re intake, coolant, exhaust, accessory bracket, steam pipe, blahblahblah.

you cant (as a shop, who is liable if the thing dies 5k down the road) throw a new gasket in there and call it a day. the heads MUST be checked for straightness (both heads, too) before installing a new head gasket, as slight warping of head surface from overheating is the most common reason they die, and that's best done by a machine shop
 

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This is to funny, the guy that orig. asked the question hasnt chimed in
since the first post,so we may be going on and on with all of our experiences and the guy is not even listening,but anyway just in case he is, yes head
gaskets seem like a simple enough job,but in reality its quite a job,especially if done correctly. The money estimated to do the job initially seemed high ,but all things considered , I suppose its about right. ed
 

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Where in wi are u at.
 

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ive been listening, and i appreciate all your input.
This is not an iron clad rule or anything, but from time to time I
believe its good for the origionator to chime in with additional questions and or comments just so all the posters know that we are not gabbing
to empty cyber space. tks ed:)
 

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They'll use the you get what you pay for to charge more than its worth crapola. I worked for mechanics and engine shop and know their tricks for running the price up. CONtrol the money control the people. BS for $ not quality lots of scams out there. College Financial Analysis After college Back to school Gov't Jobs and eCONomic Polictical Science.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veblen_good

When did you ever feel you got more than your moneys worth even at higher than normal prices. My thinking don't buy the cheapest or the most expensive buy the medium price. Social engineering to sift out the hustle and hassle BSers. Locate solid people that do great work work with them.

Search for a mechanic that freelances in spare time for extra cash that has a good local reputation or take to local community college or tech school class. Local car clubs good source of good affordable freelance mechanics.

As for the head gaskets good idea to change both at the same time the other side is as likely to fail also. Research gaskets and mechanics first don't just go to a shop grab your ankles and say do me. Your wallet will thank you. If you replace one head gasket aftermarket thickness varies so OEM replacement is the only choice to have even compression and intake manifold seal.



Mr Gasket Performance LT1 Head gasket .026" thick change both for a bit more compression.

The low price Fel Pro Permatorque Blues are $18-25each some say sealing issues others no problem.

Medium Price Fel Pros 1074 I suggest they do not mar aluminum heads. $50ea

Cometic MLS gaskets too expensive uneeded on street car build best for NOS Turbo or Superchargers.

Felpro/Head Gasket - Performance (1074) | 1993 Chevrolet Camaro 8 Cylinders P 5.7L SFI OHV | AutoZone.com

Victor makes nice head gasket for $28

Impalla LT1 gaskets will work but not necessarily designed for aluminum head


Make sure the block and head surfaces are clean and straight.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...0-lt1s-head-gasket-compression-thickness.html
 

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The CHEAPEST where I live wanted $2149.

I ended up doing the work myself AND installed a bunch of goodies (cam/rockers/headers/x-pipe/tune/egr-ac-air delete) for $1975

And I learned a LOT about my car in the process.
 

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I'm thinking of doing similar I'f they try to rip me off on cam change and heads/gaskets I'll buy a remanufactured shortblock install the cam and heads on a stand. Pull the engine with k member and have a rebuilt engine instead of paying for someones new boat car or race horse downpayment. Where I live in the 4 corners they seem to think people should be ripped off and cannot drive 200 Miles to pay normal prices. Paint Jobs for example my 91 Mazda truck they want what the truck is worth to paint it. Will get airless spray gun and primer paint myself or Drive 200 Miles to MAACO $350.

All the cars and trucks in this area are worn out high mileage 175k250k miles rebuilt wrecks and salvages they charge $2000-4000 more than driving 200 miles where greater selection at normal prices and people still pay these rip off prices. Guy selling illegally beside the road sold more cars than licensed dealer dealer went out of business. Guy beside the road still in business Thats New Mexico the Land of Entrapment.
 

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Airless sprayers are not made for painting cars. Also stay away from MAACO. The normal cost for quality automotive paint do do a complete paint job will be a minimum of $300, and that's for a single stage paint system like catilized acrylic enamel. Base coat, clear coat, or any of the glammer colors, add to the price of supplies. Also reds are very expensive in automotive paint.
So the only way MAACO can paint your car for $350 is to (1) use paint of the same price and quality as Rustolieum (2) use as little material as possible (3) scrimp on the preparation, which is 90% of a successful paint job.
 

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I meant to say I was going to purchase an HVLP spray gun and water filter for compressor. I worked on fence yesterday that I paint with an airless gun and my Homebrews clouded my thinking. I've used single stage acrylic enamel with hardener for 30yrs my truck is 1991 has factory single stage enamel with hardener primer just now showing through on roof and hood 22yrs In 100+deg sun Dark Blue Now -18deg in winter. The clear coat acts as magnifying glass thats why it peels first. Pearls are made with plastic as are metallic and metal flakes even candies they are hard to repair (spot paint touch up) and do not wear as well as non metallic paints.
Acrylic Laquer is easier to paint. Must color sand etc. Base coat color coat clear coats are usually polyurethanes and require elaborate respirators and devilbiss quality spray guns. Automotive paint is much different and more durable than rustoleum etc. I've been to the old Earl Scheib paint shops in college and their paint sucks. MAACO does nice paint for 3 different price levels and their body work fixing dents etc is extra. Most of these type shops scuff sand the existing paint so that the new paint bonds to it then tape off quickly and spray the car, then bake in a room with heat lights to cure the paint and hardeners. If you do the body work yourself you can get a fairly nice paint job from them but it will have some overspray etc doesn't take trim off and tape as well. Not suggested for color changes etc. but for a work vehicle or driver their good and affordable.

If any off you want to try primering a hood etc until painting use a Primer Sealer that seals the metal from rust. A primer surfacer is for filling and smoothing similar to a spray on spot putty or glazing putty. In high school a friend did his own body work and primered his car then had a painter clear coat the primer for a paint job. Today some epoxy primers are available in black, red, yellow, and grey. On Youtube.com search for $50 paint job some look better than $1000 paint at shops I've seen.

True COST = Time and Materials. Anything else is profit padding or taxes. Time is Direct cost General and administrative costs, Shop support(overhead) Other Costs. Materials every supply down to a grain of salt. At the analysts level costs are rounded to a fraction of a penny at congressional and higher levels cost are rounded to 100k's or millions of dollars.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cost_accounting


3 and 4 stage paints have 3 and 4x the time in spray booth base coat color coat clear coat after prep then exhaust fans temp controls lighting and painters labor in hours. 3 or four stages of supplies required different primers thinners hardeners and for plastics/fiberglass flexability additives so the paint doen't shatter on mild impacts(5mph bumpers). So we have more labor and 3x 4x supplies for 3 and 4 stage paint jobs compared to single stage acrylic enamel with hardeners to provide strength and gloss.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_painting+paint-spray-guns

http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/acrylic-enamels.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_7471813_mix-acrylic-enamel-automotive-paint.html

Cocobolo95 I agree that paint preparation is 90% of a good paint job.
 
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