[Jaberwaki]

what the???!!!!!????

guys... i have to jump in here....

If you guys are "preloading" your drivetrain with your clutch, then you are effectively.

1. burning up your clutch till third amber
2. HEATING UP your clutch just begging for clutch failure!.

also this wont work on a race set up AT ALL!

1. seriouse clutches have little to no slip. at 6000 rpms letting the clutch out (alittle) will move you alot more then (a hair)
2. if you move at all after your staged you are going to redlight!

Line locks are ment for burnouts, not like a trans brake on a th400/350 ...

doing stuff like this to save on drive train parts , is going to cost you just as much if not more in clutches.

 

[Jaberwaki]

You're not pre-loading and/or "holding" the car w/by slipping the clutch. Yer just removing the slack from the drive line. As the car is staged(moving forward into the beams)the slack is removed(I don't "coast" into the beams, I "drive" into them). As I break the second beam and light the second bulb, brake is applied ahead of clutch being disengaged as not to roll through the beam.....brake is released/clutch in and car just sits there(launch pad = level). Rear end is now "pre-loaded"..... no slack at output shaft, U-joints or between ring/pinion.

Tach up to 4800. Second to last amber = rev limiter.... last amber fires and I release the clutch(all be it VERY quickly)and proceed to get a nut.

This works for me w/no burned clutches/broken driveline parts.... your results may vary.

i see nothing wronge with your method, but that was not what others in this thread were saying, they are actually riding the clutch from the first amber!