It has something to do with when you stage taking all the slack out of the driveline, getting the pinion engaged on the ring gear, etc. Just not sure exactly how to do it.CamTom12 said:HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Manual tranny preload, hahaha
Maybe and airbag...
It'll preload for about .00001s on a clutch dump
j/k, There may be a way, but I don't know ;D
Thats the proper way to preload. Compared to dumping the clutch that way will save tons on drivetrain parts. On fwd's I know a set of axles may last a few runs, dropping the clutch and preloading on my car they have lasted over 2 years with well over a 100 launches on slicks.CamTom12 said:Actually, I do know about that!
all you have to do is, shortly after staging when you bring your revs up to do your clutch-dump, let the clutch out just enough that the car edges forward a hair.? That will effectively take all the slack out of the drivetrain and greatly reduce the shock that a dump causes.
I thought of doing something very similar to this, I just wasn't coordinated enough to do it successfully at the track and be able to still pull off a decent launch (for some reason, I feel like I NEED to have my hand on the shifter at all times, even if I'm not shifting).InsuranceGuy said:I used my emergency brake as a line-lock to preload the driveline.
After the first prestage bulb came on I would slightly lift up
on the emergency brake handle and creep forward until
the second bulb came on. When I was completely staged
I would pull the e/brake harder and release the clutch enough to
load the driveline(e/brake keeps car from rolling forward). As soon
as I saw the last yellow, I released the e/brake, dumped the clutch,
put the pedal to the metal and away I went.
Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS
In an M6 a line lock will not allow a high enough "stall" before the car moves through the beams.Marlin in Minn said:A line lock would be helpfull too.
I've heard more than a few people do this with great success.InsuranceGuy said:I used my emergency brake as a line-lock to preload the driveline.
After the first prestage bulb came on I would slightly lift up
on the emergency brake handle and creep forward until
the second bulb came on. When I was completely staged
I would pull the e/brake harder and release the clutch enough to
load the driveline(e/brake keeps car from rolling forward). As soon
as I saw the last yellow, I released the e/brake, dumped the clutch,
put the pedal to the metal and away I went.
Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS
Jaberwaki said:what the???!!!!!????
guys... i have to jump in here....
If you guys are "preloading" your drivetrain with your clutch, then you are effectively.
1. burning up your clutch till third amber
2. HEATING UP your clutch just begging for clutch failure!.
also this wont work on a race set up AT ALL!
1. seriouse clutches have little to no slip. at 6000 rpms letting the clutch out (alittle) will move you alot more then (a hair)
2. if you move at all after your staged you are going to redlight!
Line locks are ment for burnouts, not like a trans brake on a th400/350 ...
doing stuff like this to save on drive train parts , is going to cost you just as much if not more in clutches.
i see nothing wronge with your method, but that was not what others in this thread were saying, they are actually riding the clutch from the first amber!LowETz said:You're not pre-loading and/or "holding" the car w/by slipping the clutch. Yer just removing the slack from the drive line. As the car is staged(moving forward into the beams)the slack is removed(I don't "coast" into the beams, I "drive" into them). As I break the second beam and light the second bulb, brake is applied ahead of clutch being disengaged as not to roll through the beam.....brake is released/clutch in and car just sits there(launch pad = level). Rear end is now "pre-loaded"..... no slack at output shaft, U-joints or between ring/pinion.
Tach up to 4800. Second to last amber = rev limiter.... last amber fires and I release the clutch(all be it VERY quickly)and proceed to get a nut.
This works for me w/no burned clutches/broken driveline parts.... your results may vary.
