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Can someone explain to me how to pre-load your driveline prior to launch?

I'm on week 3 of owning a manual transmission.
 

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Manual tranny preload, hahaha

Maybe and airbag...

It'll preload for about .00001s on a clutch dump :)




j/k, There may be a way, but I don't know ;D
 
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CamTom12 said:
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

Manual tranny preload, hahaha

Maybe and airbag...

It'll preload for about .00001s on a clutch dump :)




j/k, There may be a way, but I don't know ;D
It has something to do with when you stage taking all the slack out of the driveline, getting the pinion engaged on the ring gear, etc. Just not sure exactly how to do it.
 

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Actually, I do know about that!

all you have to do is, shortly after staging when you bring your revs up to do your clutch-dump, let the clutch out just enough that the car edges forward a hair. That will effectively take all the slack out of the drivetrain and greatly reduce the shock that a dump causes.
 

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Loading the driveline is fine in traffic, but you'd need a line lock to do it for a race. A better bet for now is slipping the clutch or learn where your car can handle you side-stepping the clutch. Best bet is to have someone else drive it with you to watch, or tape a run with you and then with them. I know I can't even really explain what I do. I actually took out the damn cobra to see if I could get a decent explination... I can't, you just have to know the car... and now you don't... yet. Make sense? :dontknow:
 

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CamTom12 said:
Actually, I do know about that!

all you have to do is, shortly after staging when you bring your revs up to do your clutch-dump, let the clutch out just enough that the car edges forward a hair.? That will effectively take all the slack out of the drivetrain and greatly reduce the shock that a dump causes.
Thats the proper way to preload. Compared to dumping the clutch that way will save tons on drivetrain parts. On fwd's I know a set of axles may last a few runs, dropping the clutch and preloading on my car they have lasted over 2 years with well over a 100 launches on slicks.
 

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Easiest way I know of to deal with pre-load on the driveline is to make sure you have a bulletproof driveline and not worry about pre-load. :D

I've heard of people using a line-lock to take it up, but as to exact technique I haven't a clue.
 

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I don't launch off of a line lock. I'm a fan of the pre-load and side step.

Press the clutch all the way in and slowly let it out till you hit the friction point. That's where you eill feel the car start to roll. Push it back in just a bit, then rev up to your desired stall. Light goes green, move left foot to the left and you're gone.
 

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I used my emergency brake as a line-lock to preload the driveline.


After the first prestage bulb came on I would slightly lift up
on the emergency brake handle and creep forward until
the second bulb came on. When I was completely staged
I would pull the e/brake harder and release the clutch enough to
load the driveline(e/brake keeps car from rolling forward). As soon
as I saw the last yellow, I released the e/brake, dumped the clutch,
put the pedal to the metal and away I went.

Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS
 

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InsuranceGuy said:
I used my emergency brake as a line-lock to preload the driveline.


After the first prestage bulb came on I would slightly lift up
on the emergency brake handle and creep forward until
the second bulb came on. When I was completely staged
I would pull the e/brake harder and release the clutch enough to
load the driveline(e/brake keeps car from rolling forward). As soon
as I saw the last yellow, I released the e/brake, dumped the clutch,
put the pedal to the metal and away I went.

Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS
I thought of doing something very similar to this, I just wasn't coordinated enough to do it successfully at the track and be able to still pull off a decent launch (for some reason, I feel like I NEED to have my hand on the shifter at all times, even if I'm not shifting).
 

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I never practiced it. I just thought of it one day and did it
from then on. Its really simple and its something you can
try on a back road or in an empty parking lot.

Your hand responds to brain stimuli sooner than your foot so it
doesn't disrupt your RT's or 60's. Makes it real easy to preload
your driveline thereby preventing that sudden parts destroying
jolt.
 

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Marlin in Minn said:
A line lock would be helpfull too.
In an M6 a line lock will not allow a high enough "stall" before the car moves through the beams.

I do as previously mentioned. Just a hair of engage.... tach up.... dump... leave.
 

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InsuranceGuy said:
I used my emergency brake as a line-lock to preload the driveline.


After the first prestage bulb came on I would slightly lift up
on the emergency brake handle and creep forward until
the second bulb came on. When I was completely staged
I would pull the e/brake harder and release the clutch enough to
load the driveline(e/brake keeps car from rolling forward). As soon
as I saw the last yellow, I released the e/brake, dumped the clutch,
put the pedal to the metal and away I went.

Emil:93Z,383,Vortech,NOS
I've heard more than a few people do this with great success.
 

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I used the Line lock method. It is dificult unless you have a botton on the shifter or steering wheel. I can never get my launch RPMs in a good place either to get a good ET in time for green. Not to mention my 60s suck, but that could be a whole nother problem.
 

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what the???!!!!!????

guys... i have to jump in here....

If you guys are "preloading" your drivetrain with your clutch, then you are effectively.

1. burning up your clutch till third amber
2. HEATING UP your clutch just begging for clutch failure!.

also this wont work on a race set up AT ALL!

1. seriouse clutches have little to no slip. at 6000 rpms letting the clutch out (alittle) will move you alot more then (a hair)
2. if you move at all after your staged you are going to redlight!

Line locks are ment for burnouts, not like a trans brake on a th400/350 ...

doing stuff like this to save on drive train parts , is going to cost you just as much if not more in clutches.
 

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That is a good point. It is dificult to preload without burning up the clutch a little.
Jaber' if you would not mind reading my thread in this section and offerring your feedback (Launching Help). I would appreciate it (if you have M6 experiance).
 

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Jaberwaki said:
what the???!!!!!????

guys... i have to jump in here....

If you guys are "preloading" your drivetrain with your clutch, then you are effectively.

1. burning up your clutch till third amber
2. HEATING UP your clutch just begging for clutch failure!.

also this wont work on a race set up AT ALL!

1. seriouse clutches have little to no slip. at 6000 rpms letting the clutch out (alittle) will move you alot more then (a hair)
2. if you move at all after your staged you are going to redlight!

Line locks are ment for burnouts, not like a trans brake on a th400/350 ...

doing stuff like this to save on drive train parts , is going to cost you just as much if not more in clutches.

You're not pre-loading and/or "holding" the car w/by slipping the clutch. Yer just removing the slack from the drive line. As the car is staged(moving forward into the beams)the slack is removed(I don't "coast" into the beams, I "drive" into them). As I break the second beam and light the second bulb, brake is applied ahead of clutch being disengaged as not to roll through the beam.....brake is released/clutch in and car just sits there(launch pad = level). Rear end is now "pre-loaded"..... no slack at output shaft, U-joints or between ring/pinion.

Tach up to 4800. Second to last amber = rev limiter.... last amber fires and I release the clutch(all be it VERY quickly)and proceed to get a nut.

This works for me w/no burned clutches/broken driveline parts.... your results may vary.
 

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LowETz said:
You're not pre-loading and/or "holding" the car w/by slipping the clutch. Yer just removing the slack from the drive line. As the car is staged(moving forward into the beams)the slack is removed(I don't "coast" into the beams, I "drive" into them). As I break the second beam and light the second bulb, brake is applied ahead of clutch being disengaged as not to roll through the beam.....brake is released/clutch in and car just sits there(launch pad = level). Rear end is now "pre-loaded"..... no slack at output shaft, U-joints or between ring/pinion.

Tach up to 4800. Second to last amber = rev limiter.... last amber fires and I release the clutch(all be it VERY quickly)and proceed to get a nut.

This works for me w/no burned clutches/broken driveline parts.... your results may vary.
i see nothing wronge with your method, but that was not what others in this thread were saying, they are actually riding the clutch from the first amber!
 
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