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So I’ve been getting a short in fuse #7 which is the power accessory fuse. Every time I try to put a new fuse in a electric charge bolts from the fusebox to the fuse blowing it even before putting it in, this started happening after I got my windows tinted which the shop that did it I nformed me they would have to take off the door panels to get the tint to set correctly, after that I noticed my hatch release and my odometer not working, when this first happened I actually popped a new fuse in thinking it was just a case of bad luck, it worked fine for I’d say a week then went back to its pesty ways, if anybody can give me insight on what’s going on that’d be great! my thoughts are they might have crimped a wire in the boot between the door and body???? Idk. Anyways I’m wanting to keep this car forever as it’s my first car and had 41k original when I bought it and I try to barely drive it although it is my daily. I have read that electrical shorts are common on these cars. I was looking forward to getting new speakers and a sub but with my radio having to reset every time it’s turned on and the gremlin that’s already there I don’t think it’s worth it for now. Btw this is a 1997 camaro if that makes any difference, also if somebody can give me the ground that fuse#7s wiring harness is using that’d be great, if that’s not a thing then my fault (I’m not very knowledgeable on wiring at all)
 

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In addition to year & model. please post engine, trans car has. It helps members to help you.

You need to download the 96 service manual. It shares 99% of info with 97. You need to study the power distribution diagram and the fuse box diagram. Fuse # 7 powers hatch switch, power lock switches.

Your 97 has a body control module (BCM), which gives power to accessories when key turned off, until door is opened. the BCM helps control radio & pwr window power.

Here's the link where you can download the 96 manual. You might want to download the 98 manual also, as 96 didn't have a digital odometer.
www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

As you mentioned in your post, the problem started after door panels were disturbed. So that is the first place to start your search. Look for shorted lock switches and pinched wiring.

Good simple test for lock switches is to simply remove connectors from both doors. Turn key on and see if fuse blows. If yes, it's not the lock switches.

If no blown fuse after lock switch connectors removed, connect passenger side conn & turn key on. If fuse blows, passenger sw is bad.

If fuse doesn't blow put driver door connector back on. Turn key on. If fuse blows, driver side switch is bad. If fuse doesn't blow, wiring must be checked out.

Check wiring inside door and where it comes out of door. It should be a rubber conduit protecting the wires between door & body. Report finding & we're go from there.

And welcome to the forum.
 

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You need to have a digital multimeter, a 12 volt test light, & proper tools to take components off car. A decent multimeter won't break the bank. But stay away from the very cheapest one's. Around $20, or so, will get a decent one.

While your at the manual download site, you might want to download 94 or 95 service manual. The electrical section starts on page 8A. Starting on page 8A-2-0 will be lessons on understanding wire diagrams. Also connector info including how to remove & install individual connector pins.

12 volt test lights, you should have 2. One being regular incandescent light & the other a led test light.
 

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Since you already know which fuse is blowing, you need to consult 96 service manual wiring diagrams. With these you can find out what components are served by the fuse. You would then disconnect the components served by this fuse, one at a time.

You should get to the point where after disconnecting a component, the fuse no longer blows. It is in the circuit of the component you disconnect, that stops the fuse from blowing, that you will find the short. Don't forget the component, itself, could be what is shorted.
 
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