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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've had to drastically change my LT1 set up due to a bunch of problems the 93 LT1 motor I bought has. I was originally just planning on putting a cam and supporting mods in that motor and running it. But it's cylinders are so eat up with rust that now my builder and I have just decided to bore the original lt1 from my 1996 z28 (since its cylinders are also in bad shape) and rebuild it.

I didn't really fit pistons into my budget and I've been dying to hear this thing running for over a year now so I just bought some cheap Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons for now. I just dropped my block off at the machine shop yesterday and they said it'll be 3 weeks until they get it done. So that will give me time to buy new rods as well. Here's a list of everything of my build. What do you guys think?

355ci 11.4:1 comp
Speed Pro H631CP .030 over pistons
Scat I beam Rods w/ARP Bolts
Lloyd Elliot 232/240 .578/.574 110 LSA camshaft
Scorpion race 1.6 roller rockers
Lunati dual valve spring kit (rated to .660 lift)
.026 Head Gaskets
Single roller timing chain
Pacesetter longtubes and y pipe w/cutout
CSR electric waterpump
3.73s
3600 stall
Trans cooler
Tune by PCMForless (maybe)
Poly motor mounts
Line lock
Weight reduction: AIR, EGR, A/C, ABS, sway bar, spare tire, back seats, battery relocation, etc

I know the cam is pretty big for stock heads but we are going to clean up the bowls and everything a little on the 96 heads until I can send off the 93 heads for a LE2 set up. This is my first ever build so let me know what you guys think! Anything I should change up or not. Thanks for reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes. Stock crank. We polished it and used a micrometer and everything is good on it. And because I don't really want to recondition the stock rods. I'd feel much better about getting some new Scat rods since theyre so cheap that I can spin to say 6500-6600rpms reliably without worrying about the stock rods and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Oh lol no everything I've listed is what I plan on using. I'm really hoping it does good at the track. I plan on a drag wheel set up as well. Also might have a lead on an aluminum driveshaft from a 2002 ws6 car
 

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Fast LT1- I would switch to a Meziere electric water pump,I use one and have talked with several other folks and they all like the Meziere.They are made in the states they can be rebuilt and they have good customer and
tech service. ed
 

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Also I would definately get your PCM reflashed,PCM for less would be a
good company to do it. What about the converter, what brand?
Also the block,are you going to have it sonic tested,are you going to have it line bored,are you going to have it finished honed with a plate?
These are all important details in prepping a block. I will get on my" soap box" now. Most of you young folks think cams,heads and headers,however
there is power to be had from proper machining of the engine block. ed
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I do plan on getting a tune before I ever crank it but I haven't decided between PCMForless and MadZ28 yet. But I was considering a non-billet RevMax 3600 stall since I'll have less than 400rwhp and don't really need a billet stall like a Yank SS3600 but I have been considering one. My builder hasn't mentioned anything about being sonic tested or being finish honed but I will ask him about those. I vaguely remember him saying it isn't necessary to be line bored without buying new caps
 

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I do plan on getting a tune before I ever crank it but I haven't decided between PCMForless and MadZ28 yet. But I was considering a non-billet RevMax 3600 stall since I'll have less than 400rwhp and don't really need a billet stall like a Yank SS3600 but I have been considering one. My builder hasn't mentioned anything about being sonic tested or being finish honed but I will ask him about those. I vaguely remember him saying it isn't necessary to be line bored without buying new caps
IMO, do not cheap out on the 'verter. They suck to go back and replace.

If you do get LE2 heads or similar, you will need to replace the converter, so keep that in mind. Overkill is good, within reason of course.



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Discussion Starter #10
That's true. I might just go ahead and get the Yank since I plan on more power down the road. How do you guys think the cam will perform? What rpms do you think a cam of that size would pull to?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I also can't decide on what exhaust I want. I have Pacesetter LTs but I can't decide if I want a Y pipe with one cutout and a single quiet but nice tone muffle+tips or if I just want duals with Dynomax bullets and turn downs
 

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Looks like a pretty decent setup.

I'd run forged pistons instead of those hypers if you're wanting to see 6600 rpm. I would also use at least a 6" rod, too. If it were mine, I would run a 6.125" rod in a 355...but that's just the circle track racer in me!

I'd probably run just a touch more compression (maybe 11.8 or 11.9) with that cam also, but that's not too bad.

If you're running a Victor .026" head gasket (which I would, too), you'll want the pistons at about .012"-.014" down for a quench of about .038"-.040".

Use the Cloyes 9-3157 heavy duty single roller chain set.

I also second the recommendation of running a Meziere EWP instead of the CSR. I have nothing against CSR, but all that was said about Meziere is 100% accurate. They're a quality company and their LT1 pumps have a great track record.

Yes, buy the Yank converter...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bringing this back up.. What kind of ETs do you guys think I could run in the 1/8th with the mods i listed in the first post? I'll be using 255 drag radials in the rear. Same tires my friend used on his LS1 trans am with a 200 shot to run a 6.99 so they'll be okay for my car.
 
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