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Discussion Starter #1
So I was under my car over the weekend and was in for a very unpleasant surprise -- a dented oil pan!!! :eek:

Still leaking some oil, oil pan pretty much needs to be replaced now. My car is a 1997 Formula with the 4L60E. Is this going to be an impossible task??? Regardless, I'm making the dealer do it since it was not like that before they worked on it....

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18cxq-F2cTFsF-1hzcpCOvtvdWrN8q8bM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1H7bwfkLyYbJog0iynmf1G6_Kk6q-y6GV
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1aou9yFoOP4blkxhzO5OU7RkdAl5OKBON
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vD0bd6jORTCziA9_7KrIK1cUzFirlLTb
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YxhwMnUor4yzyPZpgyHmZJFJZRCsMuUq
https://drive.google.com/open?id=15JnlxrMWDq8OPHoQ_BQ2T8sbPQej38Nh
 

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Replacing the oil pan involves removing bolts from motor & trans mounts to allow engine to be lifted high enough for oil pan to be removed.

In addition torque arm must be removed at trans end. Exhaust pipe nuts & bolts removed where headers connect to them. And driveshaft may or may not have to be removed at rear end connection for engine to be able to get enough clearance.

Any wires, pipes, hoses, etc, that prevent engine from moving freely upward, will need to be removed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks again!

So....should I have the oil pan replaced or do I leave it alone? Is it easier or more difficult on automatic vs manual?
 

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With the size of the dent you have, I wouldn't mess with it. Because the pan was attached to block when dent occurred, pan wasn't tweaked enough to bend the sealing surface.

I believe your claim that pan was dented at dealer service department. But you'll be hard press to prove to them that oil pan wasn't dented before they worked on it. They'd be stuck with a sizeable labor & parts bill, if they admitted wrong doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The shop has agreed to replace the damaged oil pan (waiting for strike to end).

Does the factory oil pan come with the windage tray installed or is that separate?
 
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