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Discussion Starter #1
In another post I am replacing a series 2 engine with a series 3 in an f body.I have the old engine out and ordered gaskets, a new f body pan and pickup tube to change out from one to the other to make the swap.

The old setup had a gas smell as well as a sheen in the oil when the pan was drained. Back when I tried to diagnose the knock, the oil had been drained and I was told it smelled like gas. At that time to fire it back up to listen to the knock I bought new oil and filter and fired it up. It could not of had 20 minutes total run time. It ran smooth (as could be with a rod knock) no check engine light and no smoke out the tailpipe.

I guess my question is how did this happen? Seems like raw unburned fuel would be a misfire which there wasn't. It would certainly have to be a lot of blow by to wind up in the pan. The dilemma is I do not want this to happen to the engine we are putting in. The new setup uses the intakes, injectors and fuel pressure regulators. I was thinking of taking the injector rail off the old engine and attaching the fuel lines and put battery grounded to the frame and a jumper to the fuel pump side of the relay in hopes of checking for leaking injectors, if no leaks maybe replace the fuel press. regulator seeing how it could be a pita once the engine is back in the car. along with a new o2.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.
 

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Possibly a bad injector. Was the car misfiring prior to the the knocking?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I guess I'll take the fuel rail over to the fuel lines hook em up and jumper the pump to check for leaks when I get time. Got another issue now, Installed the new oil pickup tube and placed the new pan over it and without the gasket, its hitting the pan. Guess I either got the wrong pickup or oil pan or its one thick pan gasket!
 

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Does it hit the old engine's pan?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had to go before we could turn the old engine over to remove the pan. My wifes birthday party was 2 hrs late and the 70 mile trip threw me off aother 1 1/2 hours from home. I really hated thinking of disassembling both motors along with the subframe, cart, and hoist and jacks and what not in a very small garage, but you gotta do what U gotta do. Hopefully this will be over in a couple of weeks.
 

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If projects always went smoothly then everyone would play with cars
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Fast forward a couple of months

We completed the series 2 to series 3 engine swap. All things considered it went well. Everything went out and in through the bottom of the car in a small 2 car garage. It made everything so much easier,attaching the trans and all the accessories. The wiring harness looked like a nightmare laying over the top of the engine but went back easy enough. WE put a mechanical oil gauge and hooked up the starter, took the plugs out and made sure we had oil pressure before we put it back in the car. When the time came to fire it up, it started right up 60lbs oil pressure no oil or coolant leaks. It idles fine and smooth.

Now the bad. The car runs good till a little past 2k rpm and misfires. It was taken to Autozone and showed #6 misfire. It has new plug wires a new plug and new injector on that cylinder since the trip to Autozone. All the injectors were sent out and flowed and checked for leaks before the intake was put on. It has a new fuel pressure reg. There also was another code for the t.a.c. at the time.

I told them (grandson)to take it to a garage that could do a real scan and data log it. Evidently they did not data log it but said the #6 injector wasn't remaining open long enough ( thus the replacing of that injector) and pointed out a vacuum leak from a chipped off piece of the upper intake.

I find it hard to believe a vacuum leak exist bad enough as the car idles fine and sets no o2 codes. However I told them to spray that area with starter fluid while idling to see if it makes a difference. The fuel pressure was checked at 45 primed and 40lbs up to the misfire at 3500 rpm. I'm not sure as the book says 3 to 10 lb loss running. If it had 50 which it doesn't primed but lost 10 running that would be 40?
I forgot to mention the coil was changed out on #6 also.

Sorry for the long post just thought I would try to put enough info out there for some help

Thanks,
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Finally ironed out problems

This is for anyone doing a series 2 to a series 3 swap. After some months of frustration the car is now runing right. In our case the car threw no codes from using the series 3 crankshaft sensor and the cam shaft sensor. So i guess the tip would be...If your car stumbles badly at 2k but idles fine it could be the computers inability to read the newer sensors. The plugins are identical and some forums say they are compatible but in our case replacing the sensors with the original engine's was the main issue we were having.

Larry
 

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Good to know. Glad to hear its all straightened out now
 
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