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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
9/26/2022
My son has a stock 1994 TA auto trans - 58,000 miles, suddenly the engine started loosing power after it warmed up. I took it out for a drive a few times after it sat overnight and a couple blocks from my house the thing just looses all power - Like limp mode 15mph and goes funny shifting.. Car runs great when cold, can spin wheels. Even when car is warmed up it idles perfect, when in park you can rev engine. It does not miss or backfire. Just no power and again like limp mode
Any fix for this? I've read 50 posts, watched YouTube videos but not one has the answer.
I put in new opti 2500 miles ago, tested O2 - (they tested fine but out of caution put in 2 new AC Delco sensors), Tested tps, maf, new fuel filter, new intake gasket. I'm about to tear off front of engine to replace Opti again....
Thank guys for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
OK so a little change in problem, I just fired up the car after 2 months of sitting. It started fine but 2 minutes into running it won't go over 1800rpms and stinks out the tailpipe. It sounds like a diesel - not like rod knock just a bit out of time. I dunno I'm stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was a diesel mechanic back in the late 1980's right as this new OBD1 came out in the 90's. I did run it in dark all plugs and wires were changed by mechanic we bought car from. And yes I know not to top off gas tank just did a canister on momma's car lol. Oil is changed and checked on a normal PM schedule (every few tanks of gas)
This is not just a regular maintenance issue :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Car was fine on a trip home NC to Wisconsin, got 25mpg. Had it back home Wisconsin drove maybe 300 miles here and then trouble started. I took front of engine off today and got new opti (lifetime warranty) parts guy ordered it to store this morning and had it by 2pm. I will have it installed in morning - I'll post if it fixes problem or not. Thanks guys for replying.
 

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I have not seen it yet, but have you tested/changed out the ICM or the coil as of yet?

I seem to remember reading here that ICMs in particular can be finicky. One recommendation would be to have the parts house test the ICM several times in a row, seeing as it may test "okay" with only one test, and you have mentioned it is usually fine until it warms up. Several tests will allow you to simulate that warmed state.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Heres what I found on weekend, I checked fuel pressure. It was 43 and held 33psi for hours after I turned off. But I disconnected fuel inj on passenger side to ohm test they were all 12.4ohm but this was the peculiar thing I fired up the car and disconnected them one at a time on passenger side til all 4 were unplugged. The engine never missed a beat idle was still crap. I put them back on went to drivers side and disconnected 1st inj and the idle dropped. Plugged it back in and pulled 2nd one same, idle dropped.
Well then I went under car to listen for the knocking sound, it seams to be the catalytic converter or by the flywheel. I saw this in other posts and only one person had a cracked flex plate. Going to check that today. I also have a cable now to see ecm info. I'll keep posting and will list my findings. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok so changed out icm and coil and replaced opti wire harness cause one came with new opti. Can u disconnect the injectors while running to test them. Cause if I unplug one at a time while engine is running they show nothing. But when hook up diode lite then I crank to start they each lite dim then very bright. Ugh
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nope, I'm stuck. I'm going to go back to beginning and run all tests on shoeboxs' list. Don't want to throw $$$ at it for nothing. I'm laughing inside cause this thing has stumped me. I had a list of stuff to get done this summer and this thing is a boat anchor in my garage in my way. I'm open to help - but it's looking like it's not getting done before the snow flies. Lmk if u have any info or point me in direction. Much appreciate
 
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