[Jc803]

I've been researching for months (literally, i'm stuck in Afghanistan) for what route I want to go with my 96Z. I have seen many guys boosting stock LQ4's and making anything from 500 to 750hp. Sure, people say turboing to get those numbers are cheaper than building a motor for nitrous and spraying, but I dont think thats exactly true for people having to convert everything to run a LS motor, plus turboing.

So I want some oppinions. First off I'll say, if I do keep the LT1, I will not do the 24x route for tuning, because if I'm going to spend $2,500 on the kit, I'd rather buy a complete LQ4 drop out with computer and harness and motor for $1,800. Instead I'll go to OBDI PCM.

What kind of HP numbers are you LT1 guys making? I have a lot done already and a lot of weight removed, just look at the sig, but I've never had it dynoed.

And a separate question for anyone who may know. I want to buy 6 liter eaters rear bumper with valence for SLP center exit exhaust along with some new tips, but where do I get the rest of the exhaust from?

 

[Racy Roadmaster]

How many miles on your motor? How much do you want to spend on
modifications and peripherals? How fast are you looking to go? Just concerned about 1/4 mile times or concerned about handling and apperiance too ? How fast does your car go in its current trim?
ed

 

[Jc803]

105k on motor. T56. Completely gutted. Price doesnt matter. Not saying I'm willing blow it all on something crazy, I want to run 10's, so whatever gets me in tens the cheapest. Lets say low 10's or high 9's because in El Paso the elevation is very high, and "prepping" the track consists of blowing the dirt off, so for me it would be high 10's. I am not concerened with appearance or handling. Like I said, its completely gutted, and have removed front sway bar, and have Weld RT-S wheels. Either way I will be purchasing tubular K member, upper and lower control arms, and fiberglass hood for more weight loss.

Add all that with whats already done in sig. Right now my best time is a 13.8. I know that is horrible but consider the elevation, no track prep, the Comp 292 cam is way to huge for stock heads and cubes, I know, and also have the stock 10 bolt and gears running 28" tires. When I bought it a year before bone stock it ran 15.6, to give you guys an idea of how hard I have to fight elevation and track prep.

I am willing to build a nitrous LT1, or turbo LQ4. I'd just like some suggestions on which would be cheaper to get me in 10's (at my elevation).

Turboing any car is expensive, but guys are running the LQ4 bone stock except for ARP head studs and new rings/bearings. If they blow the motor they get another for $500. They're making anything from 550 to 750hp.

Building at forged LT1 for nitrous is expensive, but I dont have to spend the money for a complete motor and trans swap.

 

[Racy Roadmaster]

Wow, that is a tall order,high nines low 10's. A car that goes that fast
really has changed catagories in my book. A high 9/low 10 second car is
a serious race car,its no longer a racy hot hod street car. If this is what you want and if you want to do it correctly then time and money are needed, I really dont like to do things half ass,so I am not the guy that pays $500 dollars for a junk yard motor and goes racing.I dont know what
the rules are at your local track but I would think you will need to start with a a race Chassis and a full roll cage, put a Ford 9" rear in place and
a so forth. When you are done with this project you wont have much of
your origional car left. You may want to look at a web site called racejunk
.com if that name is incorrect someone on this site will know it. You may find the best bang for your buck their. Good luck.ed :thumbsup:

 

[Jc803]

Race car is what I'm going for. Reason why the interior is stripped, dash gutted, all accessories removed and relocated alt next to crank, 2 step and line lock. I'm just trying to find out what you guys think is best of the two set ups. I know a $500 junkyard motor sounds half assed but theres countless threads on LS1tech of guys making that kind of power on LQ4 and even the 5.3. But if anyone is doing it with LT1 I'd like to hear what they had to do to get in the 10's. Along with if they use OBDI for tuning or go 24x. Horsepower to dollar ratio I'm thinking either way will cost the same, only if the LQ4 blows you're only out $500 plus ARP studs and not $6k for another forged LT1

 

[97z28convt]

Add on to a previous thought..with those times you'll need a stronger diff for sure , these 10 bolts just aren't strong enough.. I broke two with hardedned gears and im only in high 11s. And yeah all the roll cage, subframe, loop, batt disconnect etc.. then you get to the engine.


BTW.. with essentially good suspension a large nitrous Shot and 411 gears some tuning and bolt onss I made the 11s. On a stock engine, for years... But those next 2 seconds are gonna cost ya alot..

 

[Jc803]

Either way I'm getting a 12 bolt, and tubular k member and A arms, thing is I cant buy k member till I decide on what motor, or gears depending on nitrous or turbo. Already have SFC's. Roll cage and battery relocation are coming too. But like I said I cant get K member and diff, see what time that gets me, then go turbo LQ and have to change it all again.

Thanks for the mods and time info. Have you tuned the OBDI ECM or went 24x. Tuning my OBDII LT is out the question. Swaping to OBDI is simple and cheap. 24x is nice for the coil on plug but for the price isnt worth it. Over $2k for the kit, but buying a LQ4 drop out with complete motor and sensors, ECM, and harness is $1,800 at most. So if anyone can confirm building a gutted LT1 with T56 and running no more than a 200 shot on OBDI ECM can get 10's then keeping the LT will be cheaper.

 

[bowtienut]

Any competently built LT1 in a gutted F-body is more than capable of reliably going 10's with less than a 200 shot. I say 10's instead of 9's only because you're running an M6 trans.
You don't need to push the limits at all in the power/reliability category. Hooking the power up is going to be your challenge.
Most of the fast ImpalaSS guys are still Opti-equipped. Mine running 10.35 on a 100 shot and stock bottom end.
Another with a 383 running 9.9 with a 175 shot at 4100 lbs.