I am replacing the stock Radio/cd player in my 96 Firebird Trans Am with an aftermarket Pioneer radio. The instructions (from the Pioneer manual) instruct me to attach the blue-white wire (the system remote control wire) from the Head Unit to the control terminal of the amplifier. But ... If no amplifier is present then the blue-white wire (system remote control wire) from the Head Unit is attached to the blue wire that leads to the power auto antenna. I am adding an amplifier. My question is: How will the power auto antenna rise and lower without the signal from the (now unconnected) blue wire? Do I connect the three leads (blue auto antenna wire, blue-white system remote control wire and the amp. control terminal wire) together to turn on both the amp and the antenna?
New Radio Install-connecting the Blue Antenna wire when adding an amplifier.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
I received no immediate replies so I continued my research and this is what I found.
Easy and free solution #1.
Connect both blue (to power antenna) and blue/white (to remote amp terminal) wires to the blue/white (remote wire from Head Unit). Now, when you power on the radio, the antenna will also rise. (the remote wire from HU sends +12V signal to turn on both the amp and power antenna when radio is on).
* A problem that may occur is that if the CD, DVD, IPod, or Iphone are being used, then the amp may not be powered since the radio itself is not being powered.
Easy and free solution #2.
Run the amp's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire. This is the wire that the HU uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory (or run) position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the radio and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off. Note, connect the amp remote wire to the switched accessory wire after the inline radio fuse. So the fuse remains between the radio HU and the amp remote wire connection.
* A problem is that if the key remains in the accessory position and the radio is turned off, the amplifier will continue to remain on.
Easy, but not free solution #3.
Run the amp's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire. This is the wire that the HU uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory (or run) position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the radio and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off. Add a switch to the amp remote wire. Note, connect the amp remote wire to the switched accessory wire after the inline radio fuse. Now add the switch to the amp remote wire. So the fuse remains between the radio HU and the (amp remote wire connection and the switch). Cost for switch runs between $1.00 to $15.00 (or more depending on how fancy a switch you want to get).
* A problem may be to remember to switch off the amplifier if you have the radio turned off but the key in the accessory position.
Easy, (but not free) solution #4. There are units (PAC TR4) that will sense the voltage on the speaker wires and then send a +12 volt signal to the remote wire. This unit is wired to a constant 12 Volt source and the speaker preamp outputs from the HU which provide a low level input (to the PAC TR4) which then triggers a 12 Volt signal (from the PAC TR4) which can be used to turn the antenna or amplifier on. This is the option for you if you do not want the amp on full time when the ignition is on, but the radio is off and you think that you may forget to turn the amplifier off. Cost is about $15.00.
Easy and free solution #1.
Connect both blue (to power antenna) and blue/white (to remote amp terminal) wires to the blue/white (remote wire from Head Unit). Now, when you power on the radio, the antenna will also rise. (the remote wire from HU sends +12V signal to turn on both the amp and power antenna when radio is on).
* A problem that may occur is that if the CD, DVD, IPod, or Iphone are being used, then the amp may not be powered since the radio itself is not being powered.
Easy and free solution #2.
Run the amp's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire. This is the wire that the HU uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory (or run) position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the radio and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off. Note, connect the amp remote wire to the switched accessory wire after the inline radio fuse. So the fuse remains between the radio HU and the amp remote wire connection.
* A problem is that if the key remains in the accessory position and the radio is turned off, the amplifier will continue to remain on.
Easy, but not free solution #3.
Run the amp's remote terminal off of a switched accessory wire. This is the wire that the HU uses. It is only powered when the key is in the accessory (or run) position of the ignition switch. When you shut the car off the wire loses power and the radio and amplifier will both turn off. Your amp will be on when your car is on and off when you car is off. Add a switch to the amp remote wire. Note, connect the amp remote wire to the switched accessory wire after the inline radio fuse. Now add the switch to the amp remote wire. So the fuse remains between the radio HU and the (amp remote wire connection and the switch). Cost for switch runs between $1.00 to $15.00 (or more depending on how fancy a switch you want to get).
* A problem may be to remember to switch off the amplifier if you have the radio turned off but the key in the accessory position.
Easy, (but not free) solution #4. There are units (PAC TR4) that will sense the voltage on the speaker wires and then send a +12 volt signal to the remote wire. This unit is wired to a constant 12 Volt source and the speaker preamp outputs from the HU which provide a low level input (to the PAC TR4) which then triggers a 12 Volt signal (from the PAC TR4) which can be used to turn the antenna or amplifier on. This is the option for you if you do not want the amp on full time when the ignition is on, but the radio is off and you think that you may forget to turn the amplifier off. Cost is about $15.00.
Joined
·
70 Posts
i have a kenwood it has a amp turn on and a power antenna lead
Joined
·
207 Posts
I also have a Kenwood that has a separate amp turn-on and power antenna lead. This allows the amp to stay on when the stereo is on, and the antenna is only up when FM radio is selected.
To the OP -- it sounds as if the blue/white wire can be used either for an amp or the power antenna. It is possible that it provides constant 12v regardless of the selected source (radio, cd, etc), so you should be ok as long as you're ok with the antenna being up all the time when the stereo is on.
To the OP -- it sounds as if the blue/white wire can be used either for an amp or the power antenna. It is possible that it provides constant 12v regardless of the selected source (radio, cd, etc), so you should be ok as long as you're ok with the antenna being up all the time when the stereo is on.
The Kenwood Head Unit that I have has only one remote turn on lead. I wired both the Amp and the Antenna leads to the single remote turn on lead from the Head Unit. It works but not perfectly. When the unit is powered on, the antenna rises and the amp is powered. (good). When the key is turned off and you leave the car, the antenna retracts and the amp is powered down.(again good). If you leave the key in the accessory position and remain in the car listening to the unit, after a period of time, about 10 minutes, then the unit is powered down (as it should) and the antenna starts to retract (as it should) but then the unit powers back on (it should not do this) and the antenna raises. This cycle of powering down, then repowering will continue until I turn the key off and exit the vehicle. I guess the easy solution will not work for me. I will try another solution. Anyone have this problem before? Any suggestions?
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!