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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 LT1 convertible with 180k miles that I'm trying to break into the 12s with. Goal is to do this with just bolt ons. I'm currently at [email protected]. No idea why trap speed is so low for time. I'm also cutting 1.83 60 foots.
Bolt Ons:
1. Manual fan switch and 160 thermostat.
2. Long tube headers with off road Y-pipe (no cats)
3. Flowmaster Muffler
4. Throttle Body Bypass
5. A.I.R Removed
6. K&N Cold Air Intake
7. LE Elbow with Air Foil
8. 2800 Stall Converter
9. MAF de-screened
10. EGR Plate and Feed Tube Block-Off
11. AC delete pulley
12. Toyo Proxes Drag Radials P255/50 R16 drag radials 26” diameter.
13. 3.73 gears
I have a 3" cut out I have yet to put on. I was also condidering removing the front and back bumper. As far as I can tell only bolt ons I DON'T have are Electric Water Pump, 1.6 Roller Rockers, and Underdrive Pulley. The suspension is completely stock also. Any help would be appreaciated as I have money to spend on it for this upcoming drag racing season and want to purchase the best parts needed to get into the 12's.
Older Youtube Video before gears, tune, etc.. 13.66.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hope I posted this in the right section?
 

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personally i've never understood why rockers would be a bolt-on and cams wouldn't.

13.23, that's pretty impressive for a bolt-on 4th gen vert..

wish i knew how to advise you... my vert sure wasn't that fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I put up some newer videos of my girl friend beating a 2010 Mustang Gt 4.6 3 valve that runs 13.5 off the show room floor at the drag strip. It ran 13.3x-13.4x that night. I went to the strip on a cold day that dropped the DA to 250 and after repairing an arcing plug wire it ran my best of 13.23.
 

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If it were mine,
1. Install an X pipe with dual Magnaflows
2. Yank SS 3600
3. LS1 lid
4. ewp
5. ASP pulley/dampner set 945103
6. rockers, springs, 1.7's if keeping the stock cam
7. tune
and then add suspension mods if needed, I would expect mid to high 12's easily.
 

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Remove the front sway bar and any other things you don't need to reduce some weight. What brand is your converter? If it is not a quality one it may be hurting you. Get some 1.6 rockers, and some LCA's. Also, make sure all your rotors are not warped and calipers are not sticking.
 

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Actually IMO your trap speed is right on the money for your et. Your hooking up good with the 1.8 60'. I pick up 1mph with my cutout open vs closed. At 180k your valve springs are no doubt worn out, try some fresh ones. LT4 springs work good on the stock cam and will work with 1.6 rockers too, and at 40 bucks the price is right. Verts weigh more so you could look at some weight reduction. These guys have some good advise.

If you really want to pick up some hp, look into a cam change. LT1s respond very well to aftermarket cams. I picked up 6.5 mph with the hotcam install.
Good Luck!
 

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........Bolt Ons:
8. 2800 Stall Converter ----->> Yank 3600 Stall
9. MAF de-screened ----->> Get one with a screen
10. EGR Plate ----->> You did get the EGR tuned out.....yes?
11. AC delete pulley ----->> Why'd ya do that.....you like sweating?


As far as I can tell only bolt ons I DON'T have are:
Electric Water Pump ----->> Do it.
1.6 Roller Rockers ----->> Stock cam? Do 1.7 rockers.
Underdrive Pulley ----->> Don't bother.
I'd also get the PCM tuned.

If you haven't swapped the valve springs then you absolutely MUST.....go with the Comp Cams 918 Beehives. I wouldn't put LT4 springs on the car of a guy I DIDN'T like; let alone, on my own car!

KW
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The front sway bar is already out and there is a mail order tune for whats been done to the car so far, sorry forgot to mention that. Wish I had saved up and got the Yank 3600 but most places I called told me that was way to much converter for a stock cam. The stall I have is Road Runner 2800 out of Pheonix, Aizona. It's just a cheap converter nothing special. Does seem to work well though. I removed the AC because I'm use to TX weather and I now live in KY, which I don't thinks gets very hot here in my opinion. Besides it's a convertible most of the time I'm driving it in warm weather the top is down and there where some issues with the AC when I bought the car. Add that into weight loss cause I love to drag race and I decided to pulled the AC out :).
OK so looks like new springs are in order with some 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers. Question is, are the Alex springs any count? I know they are cheap and most of the time you get what you pay for BUT I have seen many exceptions to this saying. Just trying to save a few pennys here and there. Also anyone have a tutorial on how to change srpings on these cars with the heads still on. I've done it before but never with the heads still on the car.
Question with the electric water pump? These things cost like $200 plus and from what I have read they are only good to free up 5-10 horsepower. Is that worth the cost?
I will for sure be putting the 3" cut out after the y-pipe and removing the bumpers for weight loss with some new racing seats (mise well my leather seats are ripped to crap). Also will be getting sub frames and lower control arms. Question here is do I need the relocation brackets? The car has never been lowered.
Future mods also include CC 503 cam, some head porting with cam change, LTCC coil pack conversion (with its timing retard) that will fit nitrous perfectly which I also plan on installing 100-150 shot.
I just want to hit 12's this summer, with bolt ons just for bragging rights, before the other mods. It's been a goal of mine since I got the car.
 

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Get that cutout installed and a tune and you will be there. That Chokemaster actually flows worse than a stock muffler. And you didnt mention a tune on there at all. The stock PCM can compensate only so much, a tune will wake it up nicely. And just pick up a set of cheap LT4 valvesprings from Jegs for $39 to replace your tired stock ones.
 

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Do you have an aluminum LS driveshaft? It's a small cheap mod, you wont feel any dif. but it all adds up. If you daily drive your car seriously consider whether you want to remove those bumper supports. You get in an accident and, well you know. You can swiss cheese them to leave some strength. I'm willing to bet a better converter will help out some more. I assume you remove the spare tire and jack from the trunck when you go?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yepp I remove everything in the trunk. Since the water pump is gear driven on these cars how much of a difference would it make to remove the serpentine belt for a pass? I'm thinking the battery should hold out for one good pass?
 

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I dont think removing the serpentine belt will get you much,I wouldnt do it, possibly a couple of the guys have removed their serpentine belt for a run,see if anyone chimes in about any gains. ed
 

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Speed seems right, 1.6 rr, a bigger throttle body, lose the flowmasters cause they suck, and a set of sticky tired and u should be gpod
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So looks the census is;
Rockers 1.6 (1.7 with stock cam) with Springs
Cut Out = to take out the restrictive chokemaster
Electric Water Pump
LCA
Yank 3600
SFC
Pulleys
Guess I'll start in that order and see where it takes me. Thanks for all the input. I'll keep you all posted on tracks time when I hit the strip come early April.
 

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I'm no pro, but I think the yank 3600 is too big. I was suggested to pick up the yank 2800 which I did. It's been sitting in the garage for a year but I'm hoping to get it in during the next 2 weeks since I'm dropping engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That may be the last thing I do. I already have a cheap 2800 stall that seems to work OK. Everyone swears by the Yank 3600 for these cars, and after take off, even in an auto with 3.73 gears, you never see less than 4000 RPM. Down the road after I get everything else I want and I have some extra money I'm going to give it a try and see what the difference is.
 
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