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It came with assembly instructions even though it came assembled so I can get a decent idea of what things are from that but its not a schematic as much as colored pictures showing where to solder certain parts to the board and places to verify voltage before its fully assembled.
Can you scan it and send it to me? I'll PM you my email address.

Al in Tucson
 

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1994 camaro z28 convertible lt1 90k original miles
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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Let me know if you don't get that or have any issues with the scans I took but I just sent it, thanks again for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Not really I have kinda been at a standstill lately. it seems difficult to find a used scope that has all the stuff with it for a decent price but I have been looking at a Hantek scope that runs through a pc, its a little over 100 bucks new. Have you had any experience with something similar to that? If I could get a more definitive result with a scope I would feel a lot better tearing into the car because even though I think it could be the opti I would hate to replace it and still have the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
From what I understand about how that works is when you hook up the leads to the wire that you want to test the signal for like any other scope but once you get the signal it can be saved on the computer and I guess you can then look up your specific car in the software and it will give you an example of what a normal signal should look like so it can be compared against the one from the car that was tested. I guess it has 8 channels which seems like alot to me but more is better than not enough. If you have heard of this type of thing let me know if it seems like it would be worth a try for I think $110 on amazon and other places but I noticed it on amazon.
 

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From what I understand about how that works is when you hook up the leads to the wire that you want to test the signal for like any other scope but once you get the signal it can be saved on the computer and I guess you can then look up your specific car in the software and it will give you an example of what a normal signal should look like so it can be compared against the one from the car that was tested. I guess it has 8 channels which seems like alot to me but more is better than not enough. If you have heard of this type of thing let me know if it seems like it would be worth a try for I think $110 on amazon and other places but I noticed it on amazon.
Send me a link to it. A storage scope just stores the waveform so you can see it later OR lets say the waveform is very slow. This waveform takes a few seconds to cross the screen. The start of it will be gone before you can see the end. So you store the waveform. It's the only way to see one complete sweep. By now I've probably confused the heck out of you. Back to what I said before. 99.99% of any problems in the Opti should set a code. Do you have a half decent code reader that works on your car? A 94 Z28 is OBD1. Don't know about 94 but my 95 has an OBD2 connector but is actually OBD1. Had to make an adapter to get my OBD1 scanner to work. I use TunerCat for some stuff on my car. Made the cable and downloaded the program. Had to get a USB to Serial adapter to make it work with my laptop. TunerCat has a very large following, lots of information on the web, and videos on youtube.

Again, if you send me your scope I can try to repair it. Don't know if I can but I can give it a shot. I think it's adequate for what you're doing.

Win, loose or draw, I hope you're learning from this.

Al in Tucson
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I can read codes I also use tuner cats and got my cable with that for the obd1 port to usb, I use scan9495 to data log and read codes. I haven't been able to take advantage of much with tuner cats yet because of this issue. I'm not getting any codes, that's one of the things that have made this so difficult unfortunately, that and the fact that I had a few things go out around the same time, fuel pump was weak, plug wire was arcing and something else that was small that I cant remember at the moment. Thanks for the offer to attempt to fix that scope and I'm sure you are correct that it would be adequate for the job, the thing I like about this option, if you think it will work for this application, is that since it runs through the pc it makes it so much easier to share a more complete test result rather than trying to take pictures or a video of the screen to be able to show on here for advice. Let me know if there is a problem with the link, and again thanks I really appreciate the assistance you are giving me here. Hantek 1008C PC USB 8CH Automotive Diagnostic Digital Oscilloscope/DAQ/Programmable Generator: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific I keep going back and forth in my head if I want to buy that or go a cheaper route like sending it to you to see if you can fix the scope I have, but if I can get this figured out it would be worth it with my car being like this for 3 years now I think its slowly driving me nuts.
 

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The scope you found is very good. One thing, and I'm also positive it's just an error in the descrioption. It says the input coupling is DC. No mention of AC coupling. You use AC coupling to see a small signal riding on a large DC voltage. If you were testing the noise on an Alternator you would want to filter out the DC component, and just see the noise.

Do what you think is right. With a scope you can also "see" other signals, like the TPS, MAP, and so on. Scope is a must for discovering problems in the TPS.

Al in Tucson
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I noticed that too and I think it is a mistake. I want it to be able to test as much as possible if my opti stuff tests out to be fine. This is a link to there website where it has more specific's Hantek1008A - Hantek Electronic & Your testing solution provider From what I noticed it has it listed as, input DC, then it says input max and there it mentions DC+AC volts
 

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I noticed that too and I think it is a mistake. I want it to be able to test as much as possible if my opti stuff tests out to be fine. This is a link to there website where it has more specific's Hantek1008A - Hantek Electronic & Your testing solution provider From what I noticed it has it listed as, input DC, then it says input max and there it mentions DC+AC volts
Followed the link. Some of the items they were using for the various tests do not come with the scope. Did you notice the 20:1 antenuator? That divides the test voltage by 20. Keeps from blowing the input to the scope.

Mentioned before, 10:1 probes are around $10, 100:1 are around $20. 100:1 are good to around 2000 Volts. The other thing they used was a current probe. They clamp around the wire, no need to damage the insulation. I have one and almost never use it.

Al in Tucson
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
ok well I ordered that and as long as I have what I need for the first few tests I want to do on the opti wires that I was trying to test last, I can always order the other accessories as I need them depending on what happens with those tests. I will post when I get it and have a chance to use it, hopefully I will have some useful info from that and can start to fix things rather than tracking down the problems for a change.
 

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ok well I ordered that and as long as I have what I need for the first few tests I want to do on the opti wires that I was trying to test last, I can always order the other accessories as I need them depending on what happens with those tests. I will post when I get it and have a chance to use it, hopefully I will have some useful info from that and can start to fix things rather than tracking down the problems for a change.
All good just don't hook it to anything going to the coil.

Al in Tucson
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Yeah I definitely wont do that, I got the same model that you looked at but it came with another accessory for a few extra bucks, I think it will come with the 20:1 antenuator, but when I checked the tracking it shipped from China so unfortunately it will be slow to arrive.
 
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