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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 1997 camaro ss (true slp car) car is cam'ed (lt4hotcam) and long tube hearders with slp loudmouth exhaust so i'am thinking the cars putting down 340 350hp would a stocker from say autozone/advanced auto be good or should i use a luk or would a competition clutch stage 2+ be better for my needs i would like a easy daily driver feel like the stocker clutch. i have a ram in the car now and the previous owner did'nt install it correctly or its just way to much for the car but is a on/off and i am not fond of that in stop and go traffic. i was also planning on replacing the flywheel as i just don't know the history of whats in there and just want to do the job right the first time so is there anything else id need (after i find the correct clutch) besides flywheel,flywheel bolts,rear main bearing and seal,throw out bearing.
never did a clutch hence the 20 questions thanks guys(and gals):LS1LT1flag:
 

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if you don't know the history of the pilot bearing, I would replace with a GM only one when you do the clutch swap.

going with any clutch other than a stock type organic disc with one like the RAM or CC 2+ that has a DF disc (organic on one side and ceramic puc on the other) will hold better but can have "chatter" or be more like a on/off switch on engagement & stop/go traffic. There are trade off's when going with a more "performance" clutch.

The "auto part store brand" of stock replacement clutches I have seen over the last few years (after the stock Valeo clutches were not used) are from China and poorly made. For a strictly stock car they may be fine but for your camed car...may/will start to slip after awhile under aggressive use

Companies like SPEC claim to modify their PP with more clamp force which with a organic disc will hold more power and still drive like stock. There are other companies who also modify the PP. McLeod does not on LT1 PP. ClutchNet does as I went to their shop and saw how they do it so assume that is how other companies do it also. Other owners claim their DF discs also don't chatter or they have adapted their engagement technique to eliminate it

I had the CC 2+ and it did chatter unless engagement/RPM were spot on but it also started slipping in my car after a year (I make more HP than you do) so after 4 diffrent clutches over the years I put in the McLeod Street Twin. It is smooth on engagement buy can be more of a on/off switch which you need to adapt to in stop/go traffic. It does not chatter and does hold.

If the LUK has the 5 spring hub vs the 4 I see on most China clutch kits at auto parts stores that would be the "smoothest" type of clutch to get. It just may not last long under clutch dumps at the track. If you just "drive" the car it should be OK

get the FW resurfaced or buy a stock auto part store replacement (most likely made by ZOOM) if yours has been resurfaced 2 times already. They are pretty cheap. I got one for $40 after the $100 core charge from O'Rielys when I was running a single disc clutch
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the detailed reply

the luk clutch is the 5 spring so from what you said even tho the car has the small cam i should be fine with the luk clutch since my car does not go to the track and besides the getting on it a bit in 2nd or 3rd there are no hard launches or anything like that
thanks alot in advance:LS1LT1flag:
 

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My car came with a ram that can handle up to 450 hp i like it but its the only one im use to so couldnt tell u alot about other clutches
 
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