[admiralkhole]

Hi guys! My name is Cale and I am new to the lt1 world....
I am swapping an lt1 into my Porsche 944. I got the car last october, but have just started the swap recently. I picked up an lt1 with less than 100 miles on rebuild, painless wiring harness, and ecu. I've had to get a lot of custom parts for the swap, I'll provide a list if anyone is interested. I've also got some suspension work into it as well, I'm all about the corners, just needed a little bit more power!
I've got most of it done but have a few questions about some thing, I was hoping you guys could shed some light and help me out.

This is where I am as of this last weekend

This is my car when I picked it up...look at all that dust! Last year registered...2005

After a bath...

Do I need the VSS? My car has a cable driven speedo...

What do I do with the trans connector? My car has a 5mt

What is this connector? It is by the driver side fuel rail.

What is this? Do I need it?

What is this for? On driver side intake mani

And this? On driver side head

Also! Do I need the air pump connection and relay? What is it for?

The wiring harness also had a fuel pump relay already on it, do I use that one instead of the factory porsche one and just hook up the wire that says "fuel pump" to the pump? Also the harness has a "fuel pump test" wire...what is that for and what do I do with it?

There's more I'm probably forgetting and I'll have to ask as I go along.
Thanks for the help! :thumbsup:

 

[Want2Build]

Wow you have a real nightmare on your hands. There is a wealth of knowledge here and some really good folks who are very helpful.

 

[GearHead33]

Ok, you've got a lot here, the second to last picture, the large nipple is the brake booster vacuum connection. The last picture I believe you are asking about the brass part, is where the coolant temp sensor that controls the dash gauge goes. You do not need the air pump if you don't want it, it was there to pump fresh air into the exhaust to prolong the life of the catalytic converter. If you remove it you can have the SES light tuned out when you have the PCM tuned.

 

[admiralkhole]

Wow you have a real nightmare on your hands. There is a wealth of knowledge here and some really good folks who are very helpful.

How is it a nightmare? There's really not that much left to do, just a little splicing into the factory harness...maybe 5, then buttoning everything up. I've got all the hard stuff out of the way I figured this was the place to go, thanks for confirming that!

Ok, you've got a lot here, the second to last picture, the large nipple is the brake booster vacuum connection. The last picture I believe you are asking about the brass part, is where the coolant temp sensor that controls the dash gauge goes. You do not need the air pump if you don't want it, it was there to pump fresh air into the exhaust to prolong the life of the catalytic converter. If you remove it you can have the SES light tuned out when you have the PCM tuned.

Ok thanks! I've got manual brakes, so can I plug the booster connection? And yes, I was talking about the brass part, I will have to splice that into the factory harness too...thank you! Also the PCM is tuned, Vats deleted, etc...

 

[Want2Build]

It just seemed to me that installing an LT1 into that application would be a real PITA. I guess what would seem like a bitch for me would be all of the work for the drivetrain. Oh, just curious, but how much did the LT1's extra weight effect the front suspension? Please keep us current with your project. What an interesting project you got going on.

 

[admiralkhole]

Yeah some of it was a pita, I would get pissed, cuss at it, then go work on another part of the car. I really look at it like a learning experience though...I know this car inside and out now. The drive train was pretty interesting. I had the flywheel/clutch assembly/bellhousing on when I dropped engine in the car...I didn't really have a while lot of room so I had to take the transaxle out and slide the torque tube back, then jack up the front crossmember and bolt down the engine uprights and motor mounts. Then I had to manipulate the angle of the engine AND the torque tube to get the drive shaft to align and go into the clutch splines and pilot bearing....that was probably the trickiest thing on the whole car. Keep in mind I did this all by myself.

The engine fully dressed only adds about 80 lbs...plus I won't be using the power steering pump or the ac compressor so that's a little weight off the front. I've also gotten a larger hollow front sway bar...subtract pounds while going stiffer. Up front is also have after market stiffer springs and strut inserts. The car has a near 50/50 weight distribution and I'm trying to keep that.

Thanks for the interest! I'll keep you updated as I progress.

 

[cocobolo95]

I don't know about the painless harness and computer, but the factory computer needs the vss signal for computing air/fuel ratio, as well as automatic trans function.

Also try www.lt1swap.com the site specializes in putting lt1 engines in cars they didn't come in.

 

[admiralkhole]

I don't know about the painless harness and computer, but the factory computer needs the vss signal for computing air/fuel ratio, as well as automatic trans function.

Also try www.lt1swap.com the site specializes in putting lt1 engines in cars they didn't come in.

Noted! I found someone that sells a VSS kit for my car.

I checked out the site, they didn't have much in the way of things I am curious about, thanks for the heads up though! I will have to dig a little deeper on the site...