LS1LT1 Forum banner

21 - 34 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
Before you go any further, you should download the free complete 94 F-car service manual using the following link. All of this detail is in the manual. Merry Christmas.
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

The latching module or the RAP module is in a plastic pocket in the middle of the lower dash mat above the transmission tunnel.
The one near it, attached with a pin to the dash mat, is the window express down module (if any).

The module can be tested by briefly shorting the two terminals in the sensor connector with the ignition on, then removing the short. The lamp should stay on. If the lamp extinguishes after removing the short, then the module or the wire to it is bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
I downloaded the link, but as with the previously downloaded file that I already have, the 6A diagram section is blank..no wiring diagrams, no nothing...the manual re-starts at 6B, and then the manual is complete. It seems to have blanked out the 6A section for some reason.

SO, I will try to locate module as described by you and short the connection and report back the results.

As always, thanks for you knowledge and troubleshooting expertise...hopefully we will come to an understanding of this problem..THANK YOU!!! Merry Christmas to you as well!!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
772 Posts
Calm down, this isn't that important. Most folks just unplug it and nobody knows the difference. Check the coolant level once in a while.

It's 8A, not 6A. The manual/file is in two sections, one for repair and the second for diagnosis, not always in numerical order. 8A is in volume 2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Calm down, this isn't that important. Most folks just unplug it and nobody knows the difference. Check the coolant level once in a while.

It's 8A, not 6A. The manual/file is in two sections, one for repair and the second for diagnosis, not always in numerical order. 8A is in volume 2.
I'm pretty calm right now...and, sorry, my mistake, I meant to say section 8, not section 6. I'll keep trying to troubleshoot until I give up and just unplug in like everyone else...I'm just one of those OCD types that want everything to work as designed. Thanks again, and I'll report when it works or if I just give up and unplug it. Merry Christmas! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
498 Posts
Thanks, Mitch, appreciate that. Just to be sure before I order it...does your LOW COOLANT lamp illuminate at key on and go out after starting?
It lights up with ignition on then goes out a couple of seconds later.

HTH

Mitch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
Just yank the sensor wire out, it's a crap design, destined for failure! lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
585 Posts
Nope, no leaks there or anywhere else. Why is that relevant?
Ummm it probably means you really have a low coolant situation.
Mine was leaking and I'd get the low coolant light. Thought it was bogus. Went on for a few years. Finally saw green on my pump. Changed pump and refilled properly and no more low coolant light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Ummm it probably means you really have a low coolant situation.
Mine was leaking and I'd get the low coolant light. Thought it was bogus. Went on for a few years. Finally saw green on my pump. Changed pump and refilled properly and no more low coolant light.
I doubt that. That would not explain why I could drive the car from Texas to California and the light will not come on as long as I never shut the car off. The second the car is shut down, and immediately re-started, the light comes on and stays on. Besides, every time I check the level, it's right up to the neck of the filler. And yes, I've bled the heater hose and thermostat hose...multiple times...no air trapped there. Another thing, even with the very smallest of leaks, you would be able to smell anti-freeze when it's hot....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #29 ·
OK, guys...for those of you who have been following this thread with any interest...the problem is finally solved! It turned out to be, after all, the LOW COOLANT sensor itself. Here's a word to the wise...ESPECIALLY if you have a 1994 LT1 (and probably other model years as well)...save yourself a BUNCH of heartache and frustration...DON'T buy ANY of the aftermarket sensors...they are cheap knockoffs and THEY DON'T WORK...at least on my car anyway. I was lucky enough to find a guy on eBay selling the ORIGINAL factory sealed in GM plastic part # 10096163 for $18.65 BIN w/free shipping. I would post a link to the listing, but I'm not sure if the mods approve of that. Maybe PM me if you can't find it. At any rate, I'm HAPPY now that it works, and want to sincerely thank everyone who helped and provided good information and listened to my ranting and raving!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
386 Posts
Glad you fixed yours, but , I replaced my non working sensor with a genuine GM replacement, it lasted six months and it went pop, the aftermarket one is still working four years later. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Glad you fixed yours, but , I replaced my non working sensor with a genuine GM replacement, it lasted six months and it went pop, the aftermarket one is still working four years later. ;)
For future reference, do you remember the aftermarket brand?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I'm pretty calm right now...and, sorry, my mistake, I meant to say section 8, not section 6. I'll keep trying to troubleshoot until I give up and just unplug in like everyone else...I'm just one of those OCD types that want everything to work as designed. Thanks again, and I'll report when it works or if I just give up and unplug it. Merry Christmas! :)
why hasnt anyone talked about these sensors having one or two sensor probes coming out of these . ive seen both one and two probes
 
21 - 34 of 34 Posts
Top