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well for perfectionist it cleans engine bay a bit and smoothes exhaust out if you have long tube headers. it probably lowers gas milage by .?? being its not recircalating the unburned gas vapers back into the intake.

when having to remove intake or passenger side header/manifold, you dont have to worry about the annoying ass lil pipe that connects to each of them. you gain a little more room for cylinders 2 and 4 plugs with smog pup gone. less crap hangn off the front of drivers side head. lol i could keep going....
This has nothing to do with the egr system. No gas mileage decrease
 

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Discussion Starter #22
....it probably lowers gas milage by .?? being its not recircalating the unburned gas vapers back into the intake.

....
You are talking EGR there...I assumed Yea was asking about AIR.
 

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I've heard that it lowers your mileage as well. We'll see, I was getting like 16.8mpg before, today I checked and had 14.4, but there was a lot less highway driving, so I'll see how it averages out.
 

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i know..lol u didn't catch the humor in that. and i was talking about the lil pipe beside the egr that seems pointless other than filling your motor with nasty carbon "too people that are set on deleting smog pump and egr.
 

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but yes the air pump will actually help a bit "not that you'd notice" at cold start, it still sucks from the exhaust so itll help throw the unburned vapers back into the intake elbow to go back into the engine. i mean if ya think about it it makes sense just not that much too hardly make a difference.
 

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I wanna see someone else do it on a '93, some extra fun with that FPR on the passenger side in the way and the fuel lines in the back making it harder to get the EGR valve off.
I did it on my 93. It was really easy. I just unplugged the electrical connector on the pump, and took the three or four bolts out. I deleted the egr as well. And i put in pacesetter Lts. I like how my engine bay looks. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
but yes the air pump will actually help a bit "not that you'd notice" at cold start, it still sucks from the exhaust so itll help throw the unburned vapers back into the intake elbow to go back into the engine. i mean if ya think about it it makes sense just not that much too hardly make a difference.
I think you have that backwards. The air pump sucks air in from the intake and injects it into the exhaust. It is supposed to inject fresh oxygen into the exhaust to help heat up the cats quicker and get them burning sooner.
 

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removing AIR and the egr lets you get the headers without the connectors which are a ton easier to install without that silly egr neck hanging up on the tranny dipstick (for those of us with A4's)
 

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You will eventually get an SES light without the AIR system on, but that is what the cell phone is for. Call Trifecta Performance and tell them you want a tune for your LT1 sans AIR.

Hope this helps someone out. Let me know any feedback. And please let me know if I goofed up on something.

you wont get a ses light in obd1 but for sure in obd2
 

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I had one from the pump or some part of the system not working, can't remember the DTC#, but it was called QDM3CCP: Electrical Fault, and it was something to do with the secondary air pump, and this was before I even removed it.
 

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cleans up the engine bay
So this mod is purely to make under the hood a little easier to work on? What about cons? Is there a drop in fuel economy? I know the system is supposed to increase emissions quality or something like that right?
 

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I forgot what the hell the AIR does, but i got rid of mine when i rebuilt the motor. Sooo much cleaner w/out it.
 

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So this mod is purely to make under the hood a little easier to work on? What about cons? Is there a drop in fuel economy? I know the system is supposed to increase emissions quality or something like that right?
pretty much man. No drop in fuel economy. It is just an emissions system that is only in operation for a few after start up if i remember correctly.
 

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It sounds like something that can wait until I get headers :p
EDIT: Or until I get bored or run out of money for bolt-ons haha:lol:
 

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My 96 Vette called for two, part # 4778578 Oil Plugs from Chrysler/Dodge (of all places) $8.25 each.

" M22 and the 96-97 take the M18. Mine is a 96 and M18 was a little too small, so be prepared. "

Jake

West Point ROCKS!
 

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The air system injects outside air into the exhaust manifold when the engine is just started, cold and running a rich mixture. Adding the oxygen dilutes and ignites the mixture to burn up the high hydrocarbons (unburnt fuel) and heats up the CAT faster. It does not function after the engine is warmed up. Removing it has no effect on closed loop operation or performance, cleans up the engine bay, may cause you to fail visual inspection, and may cause premature CAT failure by clogging up the cat converter(s) if you do a lot of cold starts. No SES lites or problems in an OBD1 PCM as long as you leave the fuse and relay intact, will cause DTC in ODB2 and it has to be tuned out
 

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^^^what that guy said^^^ haha
 

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Discussion Starter #39
My 96 Vette called for two, part # 4778578 Oil Plugs from Chrysler/Dodge (of all places) $8.25 each.
Dodge parts in a Vette!!! :(
 

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Quick note on my experience

(2) either M18x1.5 or M22x1.5 oil drain plugs – Supposedly the 93-95’s take the M22 and the 96-97 take the M18. Mine is a 96 and M18 was a little too small, so be prepared.
My experience is with a '96 Buick Roadmaster so that may explain the difference here. I bought the M18x1.5 plugs and they didn't fit. I checked the size of the pipe end I took out and found it to be 3/4x16. I found hydraulic system plugs at NAPA in that size and they screwed right in.

I suggest if you're doing this job you buy both just in case. GM seems to be undecided on whether to go metric or SAE.

Thanks to the original writer for a great writeup.

Pat D in TN.
 
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