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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
How To Remove A.I.R. On LT1 With Pics

I did a lot of searching for a good how-to on this and never found one with pics. I found one for LS1 with pics, but it looks like they have it easier than we do. So if something already exists, I apologize for the duplication. Hopefully someone will get some use from this.

Also, I am no expert at this. I just did it using what I had learned from other posts. If anyone sees something that could make this easier, or spots something I did wrong, don’t hesitate to post up or pm me and I will edit the posts.

Things you will need:

¼”, 3/8”, and ½” drive rachets
Sockets for 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 19mm, and 1 inch.
Dremel tool with cutoff wheels
Wire snips
(2) either M18x1.5 or M22x1.5 oil drain plugs – Supposedly the 93-95’s take the M22 and the 96-97 take the M18. Mine is a 96 and M18 was a little too small, so be prepared.
(1) 3/16” rubber vacuum plug (I bought a vacuum plug assortment at O’Reillys
Electrical tape
Crescent wrench
Flathead screwdriver
Cell phone

Some of the instructions below will have to be modified for use with ram-air cars. Sorry, I can’t help with that, but maybe you can put the missing pieces in place.

Also, if you have a 95 or earlier, a few things might be different, such as the opti vent tube may not be there. I don’t remember if the vented optis started in 95 or 96. Mine is a 96 TA.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Let’s get started.

Remove your air filter box. I had a K&N cai on mine, so I don’t have pictures of removing the stock airbox. If you have a cai on yours, you probably already know how to remove it. The little hose that runs from near your filter box and curves down will need to be removed. This feeds the air pump and will no longer be needed.

Remove the air fitting on the driver side exhaust manifold. I used a crescent wrench to get the top part of the fitting off. I don’t recommend this. I scratched my valve cover with the wrench. Instead, use the dremel tool to cut off the metal pipe close against the fitting so you can use the large ratchet with the 19mm socket to get the top fitting off. Once the top fitting is off, use the 1” socket to get the bottom one off the exhaust manifold.




Next, pull the air valve off the pipe that runs down on the drivers side.



Next, take the hose off the side of that same pipe, a few inches below the top of the pipe. It is a little stubborn so you may have to use a screwdriver to pry it off.




 

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All I needed was 1/2" socket/wrench. Then for plugs, I used two 1/4" NPT brass plugs. I just removed the 4 nuts(2 for egr valve and 2 for vacuum feed), put the plates on, plugged the air intake and intake manifold holes and was done. Also had to cut off the egr feed tube from my headers, but that was it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Follow that same hose down to the air pump and pry it off. You will probably have to clip the band off it first. It is another stubborn one.



Remove the vacuum line that is connected to the air pump. In the picture below, it is the little 90 degree elbow that is resting on the tip of my middle finger.



Remove the opti vent plug (if you have one) from your intake elbow. It is the blue plug in the picture below (already loose). Also unplug your maf sensor. It is the yellow plug in the picture



If you look closely at the picture below, you will see the gray connector on the outside curve of the elbow. That is your iat sensor. Unplug it. Then remove your intake elbow. Loosen the clamp with a screwdriver and slide the elbow loose.
 

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I just used a hammer, hacksaw and brute strength. ;)
Me too, at one point I had the pry bar out tryin' to rip apart the egr valve, morale was at it's lowest at that point.
 

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Haha, ya, I've never seen one of those covers for the throttle linkage on there in person, or the plastic intake elbow either. Never had stock exhaust manifolds, they look so weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If you still have your intake silencer attached, you will have to remove it unless you can manage to squeeze it out the top…I couldn’t do it. But I removed it and plugged the hole anyway, since I did not plan to reinstall it. If you do plan to reinstall it, you may need a new clamp, as I had to clip mine to get the pipe loose. Below is a pic if you don’t know what I am talking about. It is the long tube that sticks down from the elbow.



Remove the hose from the air pipe on the passenger side using the crescent wrench.



Cut the pipe off with the dremel as I recommended on the drivers side.



Remove the top fitting with the 19mm socket as on the drivers side. Remove the bottom fitting using the 1” socket. Then pull the rubber hose off the downpipe, just like the drivers side. The picture below shows the rubber hose off the pipe. Behind it you can see the hole left in the exhaust manifold after removing the fittings. That is the hole that you will plug using either the M18x1.5 or M22x1.5 oil drain plug. Same thing on the drivers side. If you can’t find an oil drain plug the right size, try a hardware store or Fastenal to see if they have a short bolt to use.



This pic is from beneath the car on the drivers side. It shows the air pump and the two connectors that plug into it. Unplug those connectors. One of them will run up to a loom with another connector. Tape up this connector and tie it up out of the way somewhere.



This pic is kind of fuzzy but I hope it helps. It is taken on the drivers side from underneath. It shows a bracket that needs to be taken loose. Notice the gold pipe running behind the socket? That is the air pipe and it is attached to the bracket. The other end of the bracket attaches to the connector that helps support the spark plug wires where they turn to go into the opti. Take the bracket loose by removing the bolt that the ratchet is on in the picture. If you want, you can later cut the air pipe off and put the bracket back to reattach the spark plug wire support. I did that just to be safe.
 

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Those stock valve covers too, never had to experience those.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The pic below is on the passenger side underneath. Same situation…got to remove the bracket holding the air pipe. But there are two bolts to remove this time. The one that the ratchet is on in the picture, and another one that is at 90 degrees to the first one. Look to the left of the socket in the picture…see that gold band with 4 dots on it? The bolt head is directly below that. So after you remove the first bolt, rotate your ratchet 90 degrees clockwise and remove that bolt. I think it is a little bigger than the first one, maybe the 14 mm. Once those two bolts are removed, a pretty thick bracket will fall off, so watch your head.



Here is a picture of what you will see when the bracket is removed.



Ok, now we are back up top on the drivers side. In the pic below, see the solenoid with the gray cap on it? Remove the plug (1). The vacuum hose (2) is the other end of the hose you disconnected from the air pump earlier. You can remove it too. The other vacuum hose (3) goes to a nipple on the drivers side of the intake. Remove it from the solenoid as well. Then slide the solenoid up off its bracket. The bracket can then be unbolted from the engine.



Follow the hose from (3) in the picture above back to the place where it connects to the intake and remove it



Below is a pic of the nipple that you just pulled the vacuum hose off. It is on a t-connector along with the egr vacuum. Put a 3/16 vacuum plug on this nipple.



The pic below shows the air pump (the big black block underneath my ratchet. Remove the three bolts that hold it on. One you can get from the top, two from underneath. Once those bolts are removed, it drops right out the bottom.



Ok, I was out of memory on my camera at this point, but all that is left is to remove the gold metal air pipe that runs from the drivers side down underneath across to the passenger side and back up. It runs in a rough u-shape. I could not find a way to wiggle this pipe out without cutting it up. So I cut it into three pieces, the down sides were two pieces and the piece across the bottom was the third piece. On the passenger side, cut as high up as you can to make it easier to remove. You want the upwards bends to be part of the bottom piece. The driver side was pretty easy. Once that pipe is out, re-install your intake elbow and your air filter box. You will have to plug the hole in your air filter box where the hose once ran from it down to the air pump. Plug in your maf sensor, opti vent tube, and iat sensor. And make sure you have plugged the holes left in your exhaust manifolds before you crank it up. The car should fire up and run like normal, only without the sound of a vacuum cleaner under the hood. It will look a lot less cluttered under the hood too. You will eventually get an SES light without the AIR system on, but that is what the cell phone is for. Call Trifecta Performance and tell them you want a tune for your LT1 sans AIR.

Hope this helps someone out. Let me know any feedback. And please let me know if I goofed up on something.

 

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its really a simple process,

egr = take off, block the hole with a plate and plug vacume line.

smog pump = take all hoses off and actual pump, plug all vacume lines going to pump

recirclation pipes = take off and plug holes in exaust.

basically everything that is taken off you plug :), thats kool of you too take the time too make a how too for people who dont know. "you see a lot of people asking this lol"

also too add, since some year cars will through a "exaust recirclation malfunction" code. you'll have to get a tune to delete the code out, and some splice a pc fan to the smog pump connecter to trick the computer to think its working.
 

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What exactly does doing this mod accomplish? I want to know exactly what it's for before I do it. Both pros and cons. Please and thank you :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow...I thought I would at least get done before I got heckled. :p
 

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What exactly does doing this mod accomplish? I want to know exactly what it's for before I do it. Both pros and cons. Please and thank you :)
cleans up the engine bay
 

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its really a simple process,

.....thats kool of you too take the time too make a how too for people who dont know. "you see a lot of people asking this lol"

.
Yes, I do see a lot of people asking how to do it. You get a lot of fast explanations like the ones above where people assume that everyone can picture it themselves. Since I was doing mine, I figured I would snaps some pics and maybe someone would find it helpful.
 

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I wanna see someone else do it on a '93, some extra fun with that FPR on the passenger side in the way and the fuel lines in the back making it harder to get the EGR valve off.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
What exactly does doing this mod accomplish? I want to know exactly what it's for before I do it. Both pros and cons. Please and thank you :)
Gets rid of some of the clutter in the engine bay, gets rid of the vacuum cleaner sound when you first crank your car, saves a few pounds but not enough to matter.

Cons..the AIR pump only works for the first few minutes until your car warms up. It helps heat up the cats quicker so they can start cleaning emmissions sooner. Doesn't do anything after your car is warm. So you may or may not have trouble passing emissions, depending on how thoroughly they check.
 

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well for perfectionist it cleans engine bay a bit and smoothes exhaust out if you have long tube headers. it probably lowers gas milage by .?? being its not recircalating the unburned gas vapers back into the intake.

when having to remove intake or passenger side header/manifold, you dont have to worry about the annoying ass lil pipe that connects to each of them. you gain a little more room for cylinders 2 and 4 plugs with smog pup gone. less crap hangn off the front of drivers side head. lol i could keep going....
 
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