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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
whats going on everyone, im in need of some input

so i adjusted my rocker nuts today to see if i could quiet down what i thought was a lifter tick, found out the "tick" i was hearing was actually a loose sparkplug. it was so loose i actually took it out with my fingers (previous owner had a tune up done previously) so i tightened it down and went for a test drive...

was at 25mph and went WOT, the trans downshifted, got to redline and it wouldnt shift so it bounced off the rev limiter a few times and by the time i got in the driveway i had a pretty nice knock coming from the underside (spun bearing) :craz28:

ive been saving money for a rebuild because the car has 170,000 on it, was gonna pull the motor out from the bottom and use the summit rebuild kit (are these any good BTW?) but i wont have enough dough until probably beginning of june because i wanted to do the lifters as well and was pondering a 355 build

i need to replace the bearings now in the meantime because this is my only car so here is where i need input... (already plan on using ARP rod bolts)

1. good bearings to use?
2. is it dumb to do it with the motor still in the car? it doesnt have to be bulletproof right now because im going to be rebuilding it anyway


thanks a lot!
 

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Once you spin a bearing, you can't just replace the bearings and be good to go. Spinning a bearing damages the crankshaft, and many times the connecting rod of the affected cylinder.

At the very minimum, you will need to have the crank ground. But most spun bearings damage the crank beyond what grinding can fix. So a new crank and rod would be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Once you spin a bearing, you can't just replace the bearings and be good to go. Spinning a bearing damages the crankshaft, and many times the connecting rod of the affected cylinder.

At the very minimum, you will need to have the crank ground. But most spun bearings damage the crank beyond what grinding can fix. So a new crank and rod would be needed.
damn, i did not know that for sure but i kinda figured... ahh shit
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well i guess its time to start the build early, im biking distance from my work and can get rides in case of bad weather, plus i wont be spending money on gas and stuff so a lot of my paycheck can go towards the parts i will need
 

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If I Were in your situation Ide just pick up a cheap bone yard. Lt1 . And drop it in.. then rebuild yours as time and $ allows.
 

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This^ and on the plus side, instead of slapping everything together just to get a running car again, you can have a running vehicle while being able to build your original engine ON A STAND at your leisure, which is much easier :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This^ and on the plus side, instead of slapping everything together just to get a running car again, you can have a running vehicle while being able to build your original engine ON A STAND at your leisure, which is much easier :)

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Yeah that does sound awesome haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So I'm thinking of either going 355 or 383, because if I have to replace the crank anyway might as well get stroked! What would be an ideal budget 383 as far as pistons and a crank? Are those summit rebuild kits any good?

This car is going to be a daily driver with a tiny bit of weekend track time
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok scratch everything, was calling around locally with my dad and i found a great deal on a lt1, its bored .040 over with a steel crank (non stroker) with a cam, its from a guy who builds race motors out of his junkyard, going to look at it tomorrow to get some more info from him, only thing is that its been converted to a 4 barrel so if the engine checks out ok what would I have to do to make my car accept a non fuel injection motor
 

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I cant comment on the wiring that would be involved to.keep it a computer car that doesnt controll the engine... Not a clue how that works with the opti.. My thought would be you've got all your good intake stuff.. just reconvert it back.. less hassell and everything will run right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I cant comment on the wiring that would be involved to.keep it a computer car that doesnt controll the engine... Not a clue how that works with the opti.. My thought would be you've got all your good intake stuff.. just reconvert it back.. less hassell and everything will run right.
that's exactly what i was thinking but I wanted to see, I'm pretty excited to look at it tomorrow
 

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.............only thing is that its been converted to a 4 barrel so if the engine checks out ok what would I have to do to make my car accept a non fuel injection motor
Take off the carb and carb intake......and install the motor in your car.

Use you FI gear ;).

Too easy.

KW
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Take off the carb and carb intake......and install the motor in your car.

Use you FI gear ;).

Too easy.

KW
Thanks man I appreciate the help, by the way im a huge b body fan and i see you have my dream car, a black 1996 impala ss, pure awesomeness
 

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well i guess its time to start the build early, im biking distance from my work and can get rides in case of bad weather, plus i wont be spending money on gas and stuff so a lot of my paycheck can go towards the parts i will need
this is one positive guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Went and looked at the motor today, I'm going to pass, it wasn't an lt1 it was an older 350 block so my lt1 intake would not bolt on to the block. Plus the guy who owns it knows NOTHING about it, like which cam is in it and so on, so back to the original plan which I liked better :)
 
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