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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I attached a pic of the gear assembly & splined shaft in my last post. . The gear assembly is on the top part of engine block, on the inside of block. If your long block has this, you'll see the splined shaft of the gear assembly sticking out of engine block where timing cover is.

The splined sleve is in the left part of pic. It attaches splines of gear assembly to splines of wp.
I'm back! This project is on a back burner and I'm taking care of family stuff but I'm back to it now. I found this coming out of the timing cover I assume that is it?
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That looks like it. Make sure there are splines on the inside to mate to splines on wp & timing cover.

If you have the gear piece that goes through timing cover, out of engine, I would replace the bearing on the end. If memory serves me right, it's a common bearing number easily available.

Bearing numbers are stamped into the bearing shields. Make sure you can get a new bearing before pressing off the old one.

And stick with US, German, or Japanese made bearings as they are the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That looks like it. Make sure there are splines on the inside to mate to splines on wp & timing cover.

If you have the gear piece that goes through timing cover, out of engine, I would replace the bearing on the end. If memory serves me right, it's a common bearing number easily available.

Bearing numbers are stamped into the bearing shields. Make sure you can get a new bearing before pressing off the old one.

And stick with US, German, or Japanese made bearings as they are the best.
I found the spline connecter, has the rim on it an everything. I can't remember if I said earlier but I found out that the block I have is a remanufactured one so the bearing is brand new. I have a new question though, I've never seen a car without an engine in it so I've never seen what motor mounts are but I noticed a discrepancy. Am I missing a motor mount? Also will that rust be a problem on the k member?
(I had to screenshot a video so pardon the bad quality)
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Motor mounts should be easy to find. I suggest replacing the one on the car also. Auto parts store, Ebay, high performance parts dealers like Jegs & summit racing.

If worse case & no new parts dealer has mounts, try craigslist. Many people parting out 4th gens. Camaro or firebird lt1 mounts will work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Motor mounts should be easy to find. I suggest replacing the one on the car also. Auto parts store, Ebay, high performance parts dealers like Jegs & summit racing.

If worse case & no new parts dealer has mounts, try craigslist. Many people parting out 4th gens. Camaro or firebird lt1 mounts will work.
Okay. That rust on the k member is fine then? I feel like if I'm going to replace it now would be the time
 

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As far a the rust is concerned, either sand blast or grind down the rust. If rust has gone too deep into k-member, then replacement would be needed.

If rust not too deep, after grinding or blasting,prime with rustoleum rusty metal primer. It's red oxide color.

Then paint with your choice of black paints. When painting with that type of enamel paint, after primer is dry, top coat has to be applied within about 2 hours. If you miss the 2 hour deadline, it's best to wait 2 weeks to top coat.

Why you ask. Because this type of paint will lift the coats below it, if top coating is not done in the 2 hhour period after primer has dried. And if you miss the 2 hour deadline you should wait a full 2 weeks to top coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
As far a the rust is concerned, either sand blast or grind down the rust. If rust has gone too deep into k-member, then replacement would be needed.

If rust not too deep, after grinding or blasting,prime with rustoleum rusty metal primer. It's red oxide color.

Then paint with your choice of black paints. When painting with that type of enamel paint, after primer is dry, top coat has to be applied within about 2 hours. If you miss the 2 hour deadline, it's best to wait 2 weeks to top coat.

Why you ask. Because this type of paint will lift the coats below it, if top coating is not done in the 2 hhour period after primer has dried. And if you miss the 2 hour deadline you should wait a full 2 weeks to top coat.
Would you use an angle grinder for the grind option? Or would super course sand paper, or something of the like, work?
 

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One of those $9.95 harbor freight hand held grinders would be the tool I would choose.

50 grit sandpaper would do the job. But expect to have to work hard to get the rust out.

When done sanding or grinding, hit the spot with 80 grit sandpaper. Followed by 150 or 160 grit. And sand with 150 or 180 grit anywhere you will paint.

This doesn't have to be pretty. Just a K-member your working on.
 
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