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Discussion Starter #1
I recieved a mail order tune from the states. After installing the tune the car ran 110% better except for the stench of fuel all the time in the car. I took it to the dyno last night and it made horrible numbers. Here are my mods:

~1994 Z/28 Camaro A4 convertible~ LT4 corvette motor swap, 190 AFR Heads, Ported LT4 intake, 4.10 gears, 3500 Stall Yank Converter, Edelbrock Exhaust, Hooker Long tubes, MSD Ignition, 160 thermostat, Fully built bottom end, Underdrive Pulleys, MSD Wires, Comp Cams 230/244 .510/.540, Transgo shift kit, Moroso cold air intake, 58mm bbk throttle body, 3 inch exhaust pipes, No cats, fan mod, egr delete, stock LT1 Knock sensor, The general elevation of Bahrain is low with low air density.

I made 275/265 with a a/f of 10. Everyone is telling me it's the tune. I was also told it's my ignition but the car drive fine, no indications whats so ever of ignition issues. I think it's running way to rich and I'm posotive the Knock sensor is pulling timing. Please help me figure this out. I need as many opinions as possible. Thanks



 

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dam your tune is GARBAGE... i would be demanding my money back...

A/F should be in the 12.8 to 13.0 range

as for your knock sencer pulling timing, of that you can be curtain too... the stock lt1 KM can not take long tube headers alone, but the level you are modded to is driving it crazy,
you need 2 things, a LT4 KM, and a GOOD tune.
 

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Whoever did your tune definately did know what they were doing OR wasn't tuning for your car. If it's a mail order, I hope you got the unlimited updates version. I use 2 tuners, MadZ28 (Ion) and PCMforless (Bryan Herter). Both are very comparable and very quick to respond. Both have done enough dynos to know what you need. Check'em out.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
SAPPER said:
Whoever did your tune definately did know what they were doing OR wasn't tuning for your car. If it's a mail order, I hope you got the unlimited updates version. I use 2 tuners, MadZ28 (Ion) and PCMforless (Bryan Herter). Both are very comparable and very quick to respond. Both have done enough dynos to know what you need. Check'em out.
The person I used (mailorder) is very very well known and reputable as well. He hasnt returned my emails in at least 2 days but Im sure he's very busy. I never disclosed who it was because Im sure he can fix this. It's just getting fustrating waiting because there was once a time when he always replied to my emails very prompt. I just want to get this worked out now.
 

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ensure while your at it to pick up a LT4 KM... it 35 bucks... no reason not to ;)
 

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Chris89gta
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That tune is garbage... You need an actual dyno tune... If its getting KR, the LT4 KM will help, and I would also try pulling a few degrees at a time to get the KR to stop, then go from there... but goodness... demand your money back for that POS tune...
 

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They pretty much hit it on the head. The tune is garbage. Even the pro's and most reputable guys make mistakes once in a while. A/F @ 10 is horrible. Get it to 12.7-13.1 and you'll be much happier.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok this is what I have gathered. The tune is rich but I was told there may be other things at play causing this other than the tune. For sure I need to check the ignition, cam (may be a tooth off) and tune out or replace the km with a lt4 km.
I wanted to do some data logging but nothing Ive tried will read my computer. I dont know if it's the cable or what. Seems like the cable is working but every program Ive tried nothing shows up on the screen. It acts as though it's not plugged in.

My questions are:

1: How do I go about testing my ignition to ensure it's fine and not the problem?

2: How do I determine if the cam is a tooth off or so?

3: How do I use the akm usb cable with data master?

I'm at my wits end with this. If it isnt one thing it's another.
 

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Chris89gta
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I didn't think about it earlier, but you do have the famed opti wiggle on your graph... where the graph looks like a heartmeter... Thats tough to determine if the opti is bad though, b/c it either is or it isn't... and sometimes it just goes kaput.

Why would you (or whoever)suspect the cam is a tooth off? Are the valves hitting the pistons?

I think your problems are that you have a crappy tune and need to get rid of the knock(falseknock) retard problems... You will pick up a ton just w those two...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Chris89GTA said:
I didn't think about it earlier, but you do have the famed opti wiggle on your graph... where the graph looks like a heartmeter... Thats tough to determine if the opti is bad though, b/c it either is or it isn't... and sometimes it just goes kaput.

Why would you (or whoever)suspect the cam is a tooth off? Are the valves hitting the pistons?

I think your problems are that you have a crappy tune and need to get rid of the knock(falseknock) retard problems... You will pick up a ton just w those two...
I'm not sure why the cam was even brought up. I spoke to some tuners and one brought it up so I didnt want to rule anything out. It seems highly unlikely to me it would be the cam because other than the dyno, I see nothing leading me to feel there is any problem with it. There is no piston slap at all.
I feel youre right though. I think the first and biggest step is getting rid of the false knock then leaning this pig out. Once that's taken care of then I can address any other issues. I may just replace the wires, plugs and opti for the heck of it but I dont want to do it if I dont have to. If I go through all that I guess while Im at it I should replace my msd blaster coil. I have a msd-6a ignition control unit on it right now. I wonder if or how to check it to ensure it's working right?
 

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the reason i dought both the opti and the cam tooth, is that both of those things would make your car run like crap all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I used Freescan and TTS Datamaster and it's simply amazing what you can do with them.
I'm not exactly sure how to inturpret everything being shown on the logs but it was still intresting. Can someone here look at my logs and tell me what you think?
Also it threw 2 codes:
Code64- Right o2 sensor lean
code33- map sensor high

Also I some knock retard at idle and throghout the rpm band. If I was having ignition problems and if a cam tooth is off will it reflect in the logs?
 

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Honda Hunter said:
I used Freescan and TTS Datamaster and it's simply amazing what you can do with them.
I'm not exactly sure how to inturpret everything being shown on the logs but it was still intresting. Can someone here look at my logs and tell me what you think?
Also it threw 2 codes:
Code64- Right o2 sensor lean
code33- map sensor high

Also I some knock retard at idle and throghout the rpm band. If I was having ignition problems and if a cam tooth is off will it reflect in the logs?

i'll take a look if you go ahead and post it...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jaberwaki said:
i'll take a look if you go ahead and post it...
Not sure how to post it. Can I send them to you? Also on the logs I noticed it always read "closed loop" WOT or idile it always said closed loop. I wonder what that means?
 

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it means its locked in closed loop... its only suposed to be closed loop for WOT.

[email protected]
 

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sorry man i got busy here at work....

the log you sent me was just at idle... it looks ok at idle.. far as i can tell, no knock, or retard but i need to see your WOT pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jaberwaki said:
sorry man i got busy here at work....

the log you sent me was just at idle... it looks ok at idle.. far as i can tell, no knock, or retard but i need to see your WOT pulls.
There was three WOT pulls in that log.
 

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hmmmm... i see that you added an atachment, but for what ever reason i cant open it here at work...

do me a favor and cut copy and paist it in the same form you put the idleing numbers...
 
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