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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
with my engine out i have been taking my time installing headers. Bolting on pacesetters to Taylor/Percy's seal for good gaskets with stage 8 locking bolts.

When doing the first stage of torquing the header bolts, i tightened from the middle out to 10 ft lbs, using a torque wrench on the three bolts that will take a socket and matching torque with a box end and breaker bar.

After the first round was done, i went back and re-torqued the bolts. Most of them loosened up as the gasket seated. Eventually i retorqued the bolts four times to be sure all were at proper torque.

After this all bolts reached 25 ft lbs after only one pass. I rechecked the bolts again to verify all were at 25 and then installed the locking inserts. Some of the locks are spaced pretty far from the tubes and look like they could rotate quit a bit.

I am curious to see if the headers will leak after careful installation. I really dont want to remove those lockers to retighten...

I will update this thread with the results when i get her running provided my fuel rail repair doesnt result in a fireball.
 

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I did headers recently. Could not figure out how people manage to torque then down. I just used a box wrench and my internal torque meter. 馃槄

I did read in another thread to re tighten or check all of them after a couple heat cycles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah.. with my headers i can use a slim plug socket on three bolts on each hwad. I go back over w wrench and cheater bar to calibrate my internal wrench. Ive never gone back and retorqued at 10 before and it took three passes.. Im hoping that did what normally involves startiing and retorquing. Im working w engine installed on a dropped k-member so its easy to work with.
 
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