[LT1-TA]

Here my build plan for my motor. I need help with a few questions, where i can get stuff from, and if this is a decent plan.

1. I was thinking AFR heads. But i recently decide that Trick Flow heads would work good. These are the ones... Opinions?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=TFS-30400010&N=115+309117&autoview=sku

2. Port stock LT1 intake

3. Get a BBK twin 58mm throttlebody.

4. Looking at getting around 8.5:1 compression.

5. Then some sort of FI. Looking to push around 15 psi (maybe more). That should be enough boost for plenty of fun. So if you have some good turbo or supercharger suggestions.. I would like to hear.

6. Splayed 4 bolt main conversion. Only question here is how much will this cost?

I was going to get most of the stuff for the roating assembly from here

http://www.cmotorsports.com/93-97-fbody/engine.html

All forged crank, pistons, with H-beam rods.

This is all about motor.. dont start talking about trans, stall, and rear end. I know what needs to be done to handle this. lol. Lets just talk motor right now. My biggest thing is i want this reliable enough that if i wanted to, i could drive it daily (not going to, but i want it to be that reliable). I know it is possible so start throwing some suggestions and answers to my questions!

THanks a ton.

Nick

 

[95_TransAM]

I dont know enough about the subject to give any constructive advice but....my god that sounds like one hell of a time waiting to happen!

 

[Chris 96 WS6]

You might give RPM and VRE a call (both sponsors here). I feel confident one or both of them can beat Cmotorsports prices. RPM in particular has a great reputation with LT1 stuff. The splayed conversion cost is mostly in the caps. The machining you can lump in with the rest of the machine work you'll have to have done.

 

[Fenster]

Know a little on the subject... Just helped 3 guys in the past w/ their setups/motor!!! LOL

As long as you go w/ reputable forged parts for the motor... you will be fine. Might want to go on and upgrade to JE pistons though. They have a special pistons for blower applications that will work w/ that much boost. A standard SRP will work, but if you detonate at all, you might have issues w/ ringlands. Running 15 psi of boost, you will need at least 48 lb injectors also. Fuel pump etc...

Do the motor right, w/ the right parts, and you look like you got the idea. 8.5:1 would be a great start also. Play w/ piston dish and the available ccs for the chambers on the heads to get close. Better to go on the low side than higher for FI.

What blower are you looking at? Running 15 psi you will be close on maxing out a S-trim Vortech...

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the recommendation Chris.We definitely can build something to fit LT1-TA's need and expectations.

You might give RPM and VRE a call (both sponsors here). I feel confident one or both of them can beat Cmotorsports prices.

 

[LT1-TA]

Running 15 psi of boost, you will need at least 48 lb injectors also. Fuel pump etc...

Do the motor right, w/ the right parts, and you look like you got the idea. 8.5:1 would be a great start also. Play w/ piston dish and the available ccs for the chambers on the heads to get close. Better to go on the low side than higher for FI.

What blower are you looking at? Running 15 psi you will be close on maxing out a S-trim Vortech...

Well see that is the biggest thing i MUST figure out. What kind of forced induction.

Turbo is great because once it is spooled it has full boost. And it is not parsitic. But the cost and heat of a turbo system are deturing. Also the fact that most turbo companys come and go like the seasons ina year. They don't last. I would not want to buy a company's product and then they bite the dust.

As for supercharger. Im not sure. Either a ATI procharger or Vortech. Cost wont play a very big part, but if both get the job done, last, and are reliable, then cost will come into factor. So a Vortech S-trim will push the 15 psi? How about the ATI?

Also, if you have links to any sites with kits.. Supercharger and turbo, i would love to see them so i can compare.

Thanks!

Nick

 

[LT1-TA]

nvrmind post

 

[quickmedic1]

Here my build plan for my motor. I need help with a few questions, where i can get stuff from, and if this is a decent plan.

1. I was thinking AFR heads. But i recently decide that Trick Flow heads would work good. These are the ones... Opinions?
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=TFS-30400010&N=115+309117&autoview=sku

2. Port stock LT1 intake

3. Get a BBK twin 58mm throttlebody.

4. Looking at getting around 8.5:1 compression.

5. Then some sort of FI. Looking to push around 15 psi (maybe more). That should be enough boost for plenty of fun. So if you have some good turbo or supercharger suggestions.. I would like to hear.

6. Splayed 4 bolt main conversion. Only question here is how much will this cost?

I was going to get most of the stuff for the roating assembly from here

http://www.cmotorsports.com/93-97-fbody/engine.html

All forged crank, pistons, with H-beam rods.

This is all about motor.. dont start talking about trans, stall, and rear end. I know what needs to be done to handle this. lol. Lets just talk motor right now. My biggest thing is i want this reliable enough that if i wanted to, i could drive it daily (not going to, but i want it to be that reliable). I know it is possible so start throwing some suggestions and answers to my questions!

THanks a ton.

Nick

You and I are lookin at pretty much the same thing. I have a 25th TA and after 10k miles with the P1SC at 8 psi my rings are starting to fail. I have opted for a 383 from Golen set up for a blower. I am not spending a huge amount but it's alot to me. Eagle forged crank and H beam rods,JE pistons, 4 bolt caps but I am unsure if I want billet/splayed or cast/streight. As far as the heads go I will be using LT1s from AI. Ported intake to go with everything as well as a 58mm tb just dont know which brand is better. The only problem I have right now is the timing chain. Since I have a Dynotech optispark thats only 1 year old and being a 1st gen opti I am very limited on timing chain choices. The only ones I can find now that will work for the 1st gen optisparks are the link belt chains and I don't know how strong they are.

 

[LT1-TA]

You and I are lookin at pretty much the same thing. I have a 25th TA and after 10k miles with the P1SC at 8 psi my rings are starting to fail. I have opted for a 383 from Golen set up for a blower. I am not spending a huge amount but it's alot to me. Eagle forged crank and H beam rods,JE pistons, 4 bolt caps but I am unsure if I want billet/splayed or cast/streight. As far as the heads go I will be using LT1s from AI. Ported intake to go with everything as well as a 58mm tb just dont know which brand is better. The only problem I have right now is the timing chain. Since I have a Dynotech optispark thats only 1 year old and being a 1st gen opti I am very limited on timing chain choices. The only ones I can find now that will work for the 1st gen optisparks are the link belt chains and I don't know how strong they are.

see... i may go to the MSD Opti that is coming out htis month. It all depends on what kind of money i have after everything else is bought.

The splayed 4 bolt main caps and bolts are only $200. To have the block machined for them, im not sure. But it can't be all that bad.

I think im going to go with the 355 over and stroked motors because the small cubes should make my motor rev quicker. Though i haven't got an opinion on this yet. a 383 or 396 MAY be better, but no one has given me advice on that.

 

[quickmedic1]

When I spoke with Chad at Golen he said although he will build 350ish motors he feels for the money the 383 has more to offer especially in the torque area. What is a good cam to run with this? Input appreciated.

 

[LT1-TA]

When I spoke with Chad at Golen he said although he will build 350ish motors he feels for the money the 383 has more to offer especially in the torque area. What is a good cam to run with this? Input appreciated.

Im going to call Comp Cams and tell them exactly what my motor is. Tell them the parts and boost and blah blah. Whatever they suggest or custom grind for me i will use.

 

[quickmedic1]

Im going to call Comp Cams and tell them exactly what my motor is. Tell them the parts and boost and blah blah. Whatever they suggest or custom grind for me i will use.

I wish you luck. It seems a question asked with get 10 different answers sometimes.

 

[pigpen]

My engine builder charged me $125.00 on the installation of the splayed 4 bolt main caps.

BTW, I wouldnt call comp on cam advise, but if you do, PLEASE get a second and third opinion before ordering. In my experience, the Comp tech guys tend to quote baby cams as soon as the hear the word "street car".

 

[LT1-TA]

My engine builder charged me $125.00 on the installation of the splayed 4 bolt main caps.

BTW, I wouldnt call comp on cam advise, but if you do, PLEASE get a second and third opinion before ordering. In my experience, the Comp tech guys tend to quote baby cams as soon as the hear the word "street car".

well i noticed you have a stroker with a Vortech S trim on it. How is thatworking out for you? What kind of RPMs are you turning? And what about compression and boost?


Yeah, the car is supposed to be radical, so if i have them suggest a cam im not goig to tell them it is a street car. I will say it is a fullweight "race" car.

 

[pigpen]

well i noticed you have a stroker with a Vortech S trim on it. How is thatworking out for you? What kind of RPMs are you turning? And what about compression and boost?

Worked great. It put out just under 14psi w/ a 7" crank pulley and a 2.95" blower pulley, on my 10.0:1 383 budget motor (cast Scat crank/stock rods). I ran 93 oct pump gas with alky injection, and showed no signs of detonation, even in 100+ deg summer days. Only drawback was the high air intake temps, due to spinning the little s-trim that high (still not overspinning it though). I was shifting about 6300-6400rpm with 236/248 114 Comp cam. I'd see up to 180deg cruising and well over 220 at WOT (pre alky injection). I never developed any problems due to the fairly high AIT during cruising, I just wasnt to comfortable with them.

Current build is with a forged bottom end, so I can put the spray back on the car, along with the blower. Among other things, I'm also adding a 4" FMIC (and retaining the alky injection.) I realy only put the blower on the old motor, so I could get some baseline boost tuning done, so I wouldnt be starting from scratch on the new motor. I had a blast boosting the old motor though - it was definitley more fun that I though it would be.

The s-trim should also work fine for me on the new motor, since I'll be running a dual power adders, but if your looking to make most/all of your power through boost, I'd recommend stepping up to a larger blower (if you decide to supercharge)

Yeah, the car is supposed to be radical, so if i have them suggest a cam im not goig to tell them it is a street car. I will say it is a fullweight "race" car.

Don't know if I'd quite do that either - they may just recommend something that would be to severe for the street. Check with some of the board vendors, or maybe Cam Motion, or Crower. I'm not saying that Comp doesnt make good cams though - just havent had the best experience with their tech advice.

 

[LT1-TA]

Worked great. It put out just under 14psi w/ a 7" crank pulley and a 2.95" blower pulley, on my 10.0:1 383 budget motor (cast Scat crank/stock rods). I ran 93 oct pump gas with alky injection, and showed no signs of detonation, even in 100+ deg summer days. Only drawback was the high air intake temps, due to spinning the little s-trim that high (still not overspinning it though). I was shifting about 6300-6400rpm with 236/248 114 Comp cam. I'd see up to 180deg cruising and well over 220 at WOT (pre alky injection). I never developed any problems due to the fairly high AIT during cruising, I just wasnt to comfortable with them.

so you think 15 psi on 8.5:1 is being real conservative? If you pushed 14Psi to a stroker motor at 10:1.. I could do 20 + intercooled couldn't I? Though the best gas around here is 91.

My entire bottom end is going to be forged regardless. splayed 4-bolt mains. So if i go with a entire bottom end, i mise well stroke it. But will it suite my plans for the motor?

And as for blower reccomendations... im open for some.. lol

 

[pigpen]

so you think 15 psi on 8.5:1 is being real conservative? If you pushed 14Psi to a stroker motor at 10:1.. I could do 20 + intercooled couldn't I? Though the best gas around here is 91.

It could be conservative, but there are more factors involved - you need to look at the overall setup. Tuning, cam choice, blower choice, intercooler size, and heads/intake flow will all play a part - as well as 91 oct fuel.

And as for blower reccomendations... im open for some.. lol

I think you need to talk to some of the sponsors and your engine builder to develop an overall plan for the HP and ET you want and see - Then, with your budget in mind, pick the parts that will get you there. Both ATI and Vortech make various size blowers to get you just about anywhere your wallet will let you go.

 

[revolutionary]

PigPen had some good advice on there.

A lot of your ability to make power and keep from blowing up is with the tune up. Even the best built engines won't survive massive detonation due to too much timing/not enough fuel/wrong fuel/ etc. A solid combination would include forged bottom end parts (I would want to shoot for 9:1 comp), splayed caps, ARP fasteners, well ported heads and the external mods that are appropriate for your power level. One of our local cutomers has a very similar combination with a D1sc running 15PSI and dyno'd well over 500hp to the wheels with a spinning belt. A cam that will be driveable should be in the range of 236/242 on a 383 with a 114lsa. If you can live with a little more idle issues then I would bump that up another 6 degrees.

 

[LT1-TA]

PigPen had some good advice on there.

A lot of your ability to make power and keep from blowing up is with the tune up. Even the best built engines won't survive massive detonation due to too much timing/not enough fuel/wrong fuel/ etc. A solid combination would include forged bottom end parts (I would want to shoot for 9:1 comp), splayed caps, ARP fasteners, well ported heads and the external mods that are appropriate for your power level. One of our local cutomers has a very similar combination with a D1sc running 15PSI and dyno'd well over 500hp to the wheels with a spinning belt. A cam that will be driveable should be in the range of 236/242 on a 383 with a 114lsa. If you can live with a little more idle issues then I would bump that up another 6 degrees.

thanks for the advice... but after the $13,000+ i will easily be putting into this little ordeal, im hoping for more than 500 hp. Suppose wihtout a spinning belt and a lil diff cam... and possibly more boost (what compession was the guy running?) i could see more. Im aiming for 700. But that is big dreams.

Whatever it makes i'll be happy with, but i wouldn't mind bein able to say i have 700 hp without nitrous (nitrous is the big thing now :-/ )

 

[snakeoilperformance]

My engine builder charged me $125.00 on the installation of the splayed 4 bolt main caps.

BTW, I wouldnt call comp on cam advise, but if you do, PLEASE get a second and third opinion before ordering. In my experience, the Comp tech guys tend to quote baby cams as soon as the hear the word "street car".

yea those guys are idiots. my boss was ordering a custom grind for our twin turbo lt1 car and the comp guy kept tellin him it wasnt gonna work.