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front bumper repair

4185 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Kick's96Z
So I have a chunk of my bumper missing :mad:, I have the piece, it lines up great.....looking to repair it myself but unsure of what to use? Fiberglass kit then paint? Don't know how well that will work with plastic, plus I have the mystic teal metallic paint, I found some online........any input would be much appreciated.!

And I understand that the paint won't match perfectly due to sun fading etc.
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they have a (bumper fix kit) at orileys. its a 2 part great on plastic bumpers for repairs
In addition to the 2 part epoxy, I would get some fiberglass cloth to back up the repair, on the inside and strengthen it. has the thin epoxy needed for repairs using glass cloth. You can buy a small kit that won't cost a whole lot more than the kit recommended above. Get the thin epoxy with the fast hardener. You get a quart of resin and 8 onces of hardener for $23.

The key to success is a clean repair area that has been roughed up with a grinder or very course grit sand paper.

So for the repair, lay in the broken piece, then working on the inside of the cover, lay in glass cloth saturated with mixed epoxy. Do 4 layers of cloth and epoxy for strength.

When that has cured, it's time to work on the outside of the cover. Where the repair has been made will be plain to see. We want to make it so the repaired area can't be seen and reinforce the repair at the same time.

So with a dremel tool, or something similar, you want to carefully grind the bumper material down around the repair. You are trying to make the crack where the 2 parts of cover meet, go down below the surface of the cover. If looking at the ground area from the surface of the cover, you want it to look like a "V" wider at the surface of the cover and getting narrower as the grind gets deeper. Since the cover is fairly thin, I'm talking about only going down about 1/32 of an inch.

Once you grind the "V" you fill it with mixed epoxy only. Let it cure. Then sand the area, prime with primer surfacer, and paint the whole cover. If you did repair carefully & correctly, you will have a unnoticeable repair, except for the paint not quite matching.
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Thanks you guys, but I said f it and took it to the body shop...... $350 cash, fixed, fully repainted bumper, and painted hood to color match but leave the scoop and fins black :)
What i was taught was for PLASTIC/RUBBER bumpers, was to get the bumper repair epoxy made for rubber bumper repair at an actual auto body paint supply place, not autozone. The stuff that body shops use (currently / vs fiberglass and fiberglass resin like they used to). you (in my opinion) don't want to use fiberglass on a plastic / rubber bumper because the fiberglass with resin is way way harder than a rubber bumper, and will crack if (and when) there is another impact, or.. when some chick inevitably sits on the bumper and causes it to flex or something, and you hear a little "crack" and feel your blood pressure go WAY up suddenly.

(i mention that because i just scalded my girlfriend for sitting on my bumper literally 15 minutes ago.... haha (this may be all for nothing if the bumper is in fact fiberglass, then of course you WOULD want to use fiberglass, as that would be blatantly obvious)

the stuff i'm talking about is a 2 part epoxy, you put it in a calking gun, and it turns into a dark grey color very similar to JB weld, but is meant to be durable, bendy and flexy like the original rubber, but strong, and bonds the pieces very well. and it, itself is NOT like jb weld...

Then, you go to Home Depot, and get some of that mesh stuff like they use fixing holes in drywall, or on seams, which is $4 instead of $25 and do exactly what coco said... it's right on the money, i just have a difference of opinion on supplies used. :)

BOEN 2 in. x 150 ft. Self Adhesive Fiflex Mesh Joint tape-FM-2150 at The Home Depot

don't get me wrong though, Coco's thing WILL absolutely work, and i mean no disrespect at all, it's just that there is better stuff out there that not everyone knows about. (not saying the mesh i'm advising is better, but it saves money over woven fiberglass, and the epoxy i'm talking about will go through it better than fiberglass (and this mesh IS fiberglass) not to mention sanding and working with actual fiberglass really really sucks..)


Then from there, you probably want to have it re-painted, and, honestly, i'd just let the body shop fill in the front side of it rather than creating more work for them (*which means more labor hours, which means a higher bill, un-doing, fixing, and re-doing what you did) unless you're good with body work (most people aren't) ..

The BIGGEST problem with people and body work is, they do unconsciously stupid stuff like;

fill in the V with the epoxy, and start sanding it smooth, but don't realize that their sanding block is CUTTING material from what is already flat while they are cutting the mountain of goop they created by filling the crack, or, they use their fingers and cut laterally, and end up sanding finger grooves into the base material in all sorts of weird directions and there are flat and high and low spots everywhere, thereby making a grotesquely uneven surface which will show up when painted as a wavy and warped piece of crap, when in reality, it isn't... well.......... wasn't.....

there's definitely a method and an art to body work. anyone can do it, but not everyone can do it well.

WITH THAT SAID: if you don't fill in both sides of the repair, it will not be structurally sound, and has a much higher risk of cracking and falling off again, so, if you aren't going to fix the visible side of it yourself, get it done and painted soon so it doesn't break off again.

(wish i remembered the name of the stuff i use, this whole post is kind of for nothing without it... i'll try to figure it out. )

I've repaired lots of bumpers with this stuff. the epoxy, like i said, is much more flexible than fiberglass resin. they always hold up, barring someone kicking it fairly hard with their foot, or hitting something like an 18 wheeler tire tread at highway speed, in which case, there's not much that will help. even carbon fiber would break in that instance.

you could always use a plastic welder to fill in the V but..... at your own risk. too much can go wrong, and you need to similarly match materials, much like welding metal. you use steel wire for steel, not aluminum for steel. you know?

not arguing with anyone though, just offering a different opinion and perspective



yeah............ just pay the 350 if they'll paint all that stuff too, just be sure you're going to a quality body shop or you'll regret it... check out some of the work they've done in person before you agree to it. if you don't see anything obviously wrong with their work as a layman, no one will notice the mistakes they make on yours.. hahahaha
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Actually I did recommend basically the same stuff. Re read my post and you see I told him to use 2 part epoxy, in thin form made for making FRP. Using the fast hardener and glass cloth, makes a very flexible repair, which is what is needed on a flexible bumper cover.

However, all this is moot as kick's96z took car to a body shop and had work done.
Yeah thanks for the info guys, I was ready to do it on my own but I just was worried about how shabby it might turn out..... So I had it done professionally. Thanks anyways coco and red aces
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