I would do one thing at a time, log after each to verify results and insure you don't haven't added a new problem.
Get a baseline idle log first, that way if PCM is correcting a lean condition at idle (LT BLM's above 128, in BLM cell 16, closed loop), you can test it after changes w/o having to drive it... IMPORTANT since LT BLM's are remembered by PCM, and correct slowly after changes, a good technique after doing work is to reset the PCM (pull +12 power fuse to PCM, or battery negative cable) for a min or so. This resets LT BLM's to 128 and you will see results more quickly after the PCM enters closed loop.
- Verify Fuel Pressure, probably lowest cost thing to do, plus it's a good tool to have around w/modern FI cars. I use one of these
Fuel Pressure Tester & Fuel Injection Pump Tester
- 20% rich on a stock car w/150K and unknown history I would replace the O2's, get Delco, or Densco stay clear of Bosh. Our PCM's do not like their switch pattern.
- Some disagree with this, but you can unplug the MAS connector, start it up , car will revert to Speed Density Mode, calculating fueling with RPM/MAP and O2's. Ignore the SES indicator . Check log and see if LT BLM's are closer to 128. If so MAs is bad, If not reconnect it and move on. Descreened MAF alters the air flow past the actual sensor, thus reporting incorrect air flow to the PCM. PCM should correct this, and it's never 20% out, usually a few percent at the most. I would fix it eventually, don't forget about it, not urgent compared to the real problem, but it may effect AFR readings..
- The 'hose system' to the opti has a check valve/flow regulator in the line from opti to intake manifold fitting. Make sure it's there. Other opti hose is fresh air from intake snorkel. Make sure it's 'after' the MAS so the air flow is metered (reported to PCM) . ALL air to intake s/b through MAS, otherwise it's a vac leak.
- Lt4 knock module is for false knock, it was used in LT4 roller rockers to filter out the valve train noise being falsely reported as knock. Your knock may be real, but at this time I'd wait till fueling is corrected to make that decision.
- On a stock setup "If" low octane fuel caused repetitive knock, the PCM will activate the 'low octane' routines and start lowering timing advance, not to be confused with spark retard. It will lower timing till the knock disappears and hold it there. Engine will run fine no damage will occur, but it will have less power, maybe lower mileage as drivers will make up for it w/more throttle. If no knock occurs w/87 then nothing happens. Higher octane usually gives better performance and/or mileage. Individual decision if it's worth the extra $$. If you ever get a performance tune then it's a requirement as more timing is required.. 17-19 year old LT1's are not what I would call a cheap, reliable DD's, you got to pay for the fun.. My mods require 91 or better, however I've run 91 since I owned the car prior to any mods.