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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question: how have you guys tackled the issue of filling and bleeding the cooling system before the initial startup? I remember it took me forever to get the air out last time but I'm concerned about letting the motor sit and idle before its broken in.
 

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Think of a carpenters level the air bubble goes toward the tilt incline so I park the front on ramps so the air bubble go toward the radiator cap and the bleeders on heater lines and thermostat housing. Fill until no bubbles or burps bleed the air off with engine off after warm opening the bleeder screws while its running can trap air in the system.

New engine check for leaks then drive accelerate decelerate at least 1/2 throttle bursts go up a hill and down a hill in 1st or second gear let the compression slow the car down up to 60mph then back down. This builds combustion pressure forcing the rings to seat better than steady driving which can glaze the cylinder walls if ring or cylinder hone imperfections exist. Others say take it out and run the heck out of it. I do this break in for say 1st 500 miles without full throttle burst. Do not use synthetic oil until say 2nd oil change 6000 Miles can inhibit ring break in. After 1st run and break in attempt change the oil filter and top off the fluids.
 

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Think of a carpenters level the air bubble goes toward the tilt incline so I park the front on ramps so the air bubble go toward the radiator cap and the bleeders on heater lines and thermostat housing. Fill until no bubbles or burps bleed the air off with engine off after warm opening the bleeder screws while its running can trap air in the system.

New engine check for leaks then drive accelerate decelerate at least 1/2 throttle bursts go up a hill and down a hill in 1st or second gear let the compression slow the car down up to 60mph then back down. This builds combustion pressure forcing the rings to seat better than steady driving which can glaze the cylinder walls if ring or cylinder hone imperfections exist. Others say take it out and run the heck out of it. I do this break in for say 1st 500 miles without full throttle burst. Do not use synthetic oil until say 2nd oil change 6000 Miles can inhibit ring break in. After 1st run and break in attempt change the oil filter and top off the fluids.
VIPER, You pretty much have those break in procedures down pat. So many folks have their new motors far from being road worthy so they fart around idleing and gunning them while the car is on jack stands,which really prevents them from breaking in the motor properly. When I build a motor the only thing I do,optimally, is start the motor check for oil pressure and leaks ,do a real quick check in ign.timing then go drive the
car and cycle in the motor. I thought this cycling was a lost art,so there are at least two people that do it. ed:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I guess maybe I'm making this into brain surgery. I guess I was just concerned about letting the car idle for long enough to open thermostat. Thanks guys. On a separate but related matter will it hurt my new motor if I start it really quick once I get it wired up to verify the optispark is installed correctly before I bolt up the wp etc?
 

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Ok I guess maybe I'm making this into brain surgery. I guess I was just concerned about letting the car idle for long enough to open thermostat. Thanks guys. On a separate but related matter will it hurt my new motor if I start it really quick once I get it wired up to verify the optispark is installed correctly before I bolt up the wp etc?
I think it will be ok, but also ,I am pretty sure its physically impossible
to install the opti incorrectly. ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for squaring me away man. Got my signature updated. I have a 97 with the oem style opti (not msd or anything) I can testify to the fact that the opti can be installed incorrectly (last one I did after the whole car was buttoned up. Huge pita). This will be my first time installing a new engine and I just want to make sure that I don't mess something up. I've read at least 10 different opinions on how to treat a new motor.
 

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OP, you should make a signature so people know what you are working on. Optis are put on wrong by people all the time. It makes a difference, though, on which type you have as to what you need to pay attention to (that's why car info is needed).
SHOE, can you straighten this out for me? I thought both style optis were
keyed or indexed? I have seen in this forum where people have forced fit
optis,but now you said in your reply that optis are installed wrong all the time. Do you mean when guys are force fitting them . Please inform ?? ed
 

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SHOE, can you straighten this out for me? I thought both style optis were
keyed or indexed? I have seen in this forum where people have forced fit
optis,but now you said in your reply that optis are installed wrong all the time. Do you mean when guys are force fitting them . Please inform ?? ed
The people that are putting them on wrong don't seem to know that they are, so I guess "forcing" is a relative term. The pin drive ones especially would not need to be forced-just set in the wrong location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yep that's what I did. Lesson learned. It will go together wrong with no trouble.
 
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