[150+]

ok guys I wired a couple wires (through a 30 amp fuse) to the battery, to turn the fans on. just to see if having a fan on would even fix my problem. I had a couple lose clamps and one hose with a hole in it. I fixed those did a coolent pressure test on it and pumped it to 20psi (the cap on the rad said 18) no leaks I started it up and the fans never came on, I let it get to the 3/4 mark to see if fans would come on, no...

well I have 3 questions now..

1) in shoe boxes website I think it says to use a 30 amp fuse, is that per fan, or for both fans?

2) if the fans don't keep It cool once I get them on, can I safely by pass the heater core, to test and see if that might be the problem?

3) could it be the radiator? like the coolant goes through part of it but can spread out the heat enough through he whole rad?

thanks again guys

 

[shoebox]

3/4 of the gauge is about where the fans would come on. You probably did not give it enough time or your gauge may be off by just a little. A scanner should be used to verify temps and fan commands.

Not sure where on my site it say to use a 30A fuse, because I would never recommend powering the fans like that. The fan switch diagrams on my site make use of the factory relays that use ground activation that is safe. Running big power to the fans is a dangerous proposition. The factory used a relay configuration that you should also use.

Bypassing the heater core is not going to be of any real value. It more closely sounds like your system is function normally. Let it run longer and see if the fans do really come on. If they do, it should cool down sufficiently.

 

[150+]

sorry about the fuse thing I didn't see that on your website I just new not to run it directly to the battery but I just was checking to see if fans worked or would keep it cool, but the bully dog watch dog I have does not match the dash guage, I was thinking the guage (head temp sensor) was really getting that hot, but the water pump sensor was the temp the bully dog was getting it was significantly lower like not even 100 is this possible? or should I run the motor till the bully dog gets to running temp?

 

[shoebox]

It almost sounds like your water pump coolant temp sensor is not working properly. After several minutes, the engine should be way over 100°. The sensor in the pump is what the PCM uses for info to control fans.

 

[150+]

that's the sensor I replaced, I bought it from oreillys should I get one from dealer or does oreillys usually do fine? my friend said I should get oem from dealer instead of oreillys crap

 

[shoebox]

I usually always buy the OEM stuff for sensors. Too much junk out there. You should also make sure your wiring is ok.

 

[150+]

yea the wire looks fine not melted to header or anything so you think the sensor in the head is ok?

 

[shoebox]

yea the wire looks fine not melted to header or anything so you think the sensor in the head is ok?

There is testing info for these on my website.

 

[150+]

should disconnecting the water pump sensor force the fans on I haven't tried yet but someone said I could give it a try? Ill test the sensors tomorrow...

 

[shoebox]

should disconnecting the water pump sensor force the fans on I haven't tried yet but someone said I could give it a try? Ill test the sensors tomorrow...

Yes, it normally does, as do a lot of trouble codes.

 

[lt1beaster]

this is what a dealer would do. check the fuses. test temp sensor. check relays makeing sure they get good ground. check if pcm is signaling the fans to kick on or not. ohm out wires. test the fans.

 

[PHXLT1]

Uh, ya, wut da sed............./\

 

[150+]

.. ohm out wires...

what you mean?

 

[150+]

I unplugged my temp sensor in the water pump and fans came on sorry Im just really relived but I'm gonna buy new temp sensors and I'm thinking that's gonna solve my confusion with these gauges lol

 

[lt1beaster]

Glad you found the problem. to answer your question. when you ohm out a wire you use a ohm meter to test each end of the wire. if the resistence is more them 5 ohms it could scue the readings. like your temp use voltage to reference for heat. so if the resistance is high the voltage would be diffrent then it should be. or it could be just a open. for exam. the tmpeture sends the voltage at 3.5 which as a example would be 140 with resistance thou at the pcm it would see 3.1 volts instead so the pcm thinks its 110 and not 140. Which is what happened inside the temp sensor instead of the wiring.

 

[150+]

Bypassing the heater core is not going to be of any real value. It more closely sounds like your system is function normally. Let it run longer and see if the fans do really come on. If they do, it should cool down sufficiently.

I replaced the sensors and the bully dog tempature goes up normal the dash gauge goes up and I rev it and it goes down a lil, the heater does not blow hot at all and im wondering if i can just put a pipe between the hoses that go into the heatercore to see if that'll fix it
im renting the block tester tool tomorrow if that checks out bad well shit on me... if its ok then the only other thing it could be that i can think of would be the waterpump...

 

[shoebox]

The sensor in the head will act funny if you don't have all the air out of the system. If you have no heat, the heater core is probably clogged.

 

[150+]

ok i freaking broke the bleader screw on the thermo housing AGAIN but ill get another one and blead it again and see if the heater core is the problem, but if it was clogged would it over heat right away or would it take 20 min?

 

[shoebox]

A clogged heater core would have no effect on how the engine heats up.

 

[150+]

i understand your not here to see whats happening but do you think it might be the waterbump? i cant imagine more air pockets in it, iv bleed the system over and over again. iv had the waterpump off 3-4 times and never had a cooling problem like this i dont know what else to look for