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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
What's on there now is the original 7" from 1966. I've heard talk that a larger damper can actually improve power due to better cam stability, although I don't know how much difference that would make on a mild hydraulic cam being shifted at 5600.

However, if I go through with the cam change I'm considering, it would be a solid flat tappet that would probably be shifted at 6000+. I used a Pioneer non-SFI when I did the 350 this past summer. A similar Professional Products part is available for internal balance BBC, 80004, but they say 6000 RPM max for it (the SBC version is 6500 max, and I don't take the 350 that high). The SFI 90004 is more than twice the price ($54 vs. $128, plus $15 shipping for either, from Northern Auto Parts). Both are 8".

As usual, the old project price inflation. Even if I don't do the cam, do you think the damper would be worth it? I'd probably go for the SFI either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, not having had any objections communicated, I'm going with the SFI-rated 90004 and the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update:

The thing is a very, very tight fit on the crank snout. It's stressing the limits of my install tool. So far, I've gotten it on part way, pulled it back off to clean and relube, got it to go on farther, repeat remove/clean/relube, 4 times. My right palm is bruised from turning the 15" Cresent on the install tool nut.

It isn't galling or anything, just doesn't want to slide on.

Better be worth it when it's done.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's on, and the engine is back running.

I don't know how much is attributable to the new damper (have a new cam and timing set as well), but the timing is much, much more stable now when checking total timing than it ever has been.

The pudding test is (hopefully) this Saturday at T&T.
 

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Damper results

Be sure and post your results. The engine in my '57 is a 402 from '71 Chevelle. Since these engines are internally balanced, I have always ran a light weight aluminum Morosso damper that I had from the mid 90's. You can not even buy them anymore that I have seen.
I have had the same problem with timing jumping around and have also entertained the thought of replacing damper. Let us know. This would be very useful info.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2453874
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Whoa, 5 months between posts!

It's done fine all season. Timing has stayed rock-steady.

As for the T&T, that was a bit ago. On April 30th, it ran a best of 13.30 at altitude. I just got back from Topeka having run in the NHRA Division V Summit ET Finals in the Sportsman class, which has a minimum-allowed dial-in of 13.00 - needless to say, it was a sand-bag Sunday for me, but I managed a semi-final appearance.

Oh, I earned the trip to Topeka via a class season championship, my first championship at the home track. I guess the damper is doing okay.

Except I need to pull it off to fix a seal leak. . .
 
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