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In the manual, I did a search for P0335 and it came up on page 6E-644. After reading up, I was confident I could find the problem. I knew I need to see live data to confirm info coming from the CKP sensor, Opti Sensor, and the CKP Lo Resolution Angle % and I'd be able to ascertain which of these was the problem ( CPS, Opti, or timing chain ).

Today, I go to Autozone to "borrow" a scan tool capable of live data. I scrolled through the 26 lines... and I have no idea which, if any, of them are for these three bits of info. I didn't write down everything I was seeing, but I can if it will help anyone willing to help me figure out what's going on.

It did have a "Freeze Frame" setting that according to the manual catches the relevant data at the time of the code. So for code P0335, it gives me the following:

Fuel Sys 1--------- 0L
Fuel Sys 2 -------- 0L
Calc Load ------- 3.9%
ECT--------------- 221 °F
STFT B1--------- 0.0%
LTFT B1---------- 0.0%
STFT B2--------- 0.0%
LTFT B2-------- 21.9%
MAP------------- 10 (inHg)
Eng RPM--------- 996
Veh Speed-------- 0mph
MAF ------------- 1.43 (lbs/min)
TPS ---------------- 0.0

Some of these I know what they are. The 5-8 are bank 1 and 2, but I'm sure exactly what they are reading. Seems odd though that 3 of them are 0 while 1 is over 20%.

There are 13 more categories when doing the live data. Besides any potential issues shown above, what should I be looking for in the live data? I need to figure out while I still have unusually warm weather to work on the car. Otherwise, it'll sit all winter...
 

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Try ebay, use "optispark distributor wiring pigtail" as your search query. There will be multiple sellers listing it.

About blown head gaskets. The symptoms of a blown hg, depends on where the gasket blew out at. water in the oil or oil in the water only occur if hg blows out in an area that communicates with a water passage. There are many symptoms of blown hg. Including exhaust manifold glowing red.

Do a compression test on all cylinders. 1 cylinder with low compression, or 2 cylinders with low compression, that are next to each other, are good signs of blown hg.

Also make sure the fuel injectors that serve the cylinders where exhaust manifold is red, are not clogged.

Since opti needs to be tested, you will need a $70 pc based oscilloscope to test low & high resolution signals of opti. That is if problem isn't wiring pigtail or blown hg. low & high res signals should be a well formed square wave, with no drop outs, or skewed waves.

And since your car is an obd 2 computer system, if you had a GM tech 2 scanner, it could run a test comparing output of crank sensor to output of opti. This would tell you if crank sensor or opti timing wheels are the problem causing codes 0335 & 0336
Okay, so I just replaced the timing chain and opti. I got an aftermarket one, but put a mitsubishi sensor from the junkyard in it. Car starts up just fine. Still give these codes on the second startup. I didn't manually clear the old ones, they just went away because the battery has been unhooked for like 2 weeks.

I used the service manual and the diagnostics tree only leads to a new opti if you also have the low or high resolution codes ( which I don't ). It says "excessive backlash in the distributor" can cause it, but I'd assume that's Crank timing gear was worn. Teeth were noticeably smaller than the new gear and that's where my slack was. The gear would move a little before contacting the chain. I was 99% certain that was my problem. I guess it wasn't. New chain is tight and movement of the two gears is instantaneous.

With a multi-meter, I checked at the sensor and I had good voltage, ground, and signal ( didn't use an oscilloscope, just checked voltage. Got an even 5 or 3 depending on crank position. Next I'm going to check the other end of the signal wire to make sure it's getting signal to the PCM.

Something I did notice today. The harmonic balancer has a bolt in one of the external holes going around and it's broken off in there. There are about a dozen of these holes, and only one has a broken off bolt in it. I'm sure that's throwing off the balance of the engine. Could that cause the code? I'm assuming previous owner tried to pull it off by putting bolts in those holes and one broke. Seeing as how they aren't threaded...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I may be wrong but it's certainly a possibility. The biggest thing I noticed with the aftermarket distributors is that the reluctor ring inside was warped on every single one of them, some noticeable, others you would have to REALLY watch it as you turn the ring real slow, that's where I thought my problem was and it wasn't until I read a review on the aftermarket ones of a person that said it threw both those codes and they wouldn't buy another one. My main problem was that it would run just fine but on the second startup it would throw both codes. For whatever reason when I put the GM Delco unit in, problem solved.
 

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I may be wrong but it's certainly a possibility. The biggest thing I noticed with the aftermarket distributors is that the reluctor ring inside was warped on every single one of them, some noticeable, others you would have to REALLY watch it as you turn the ring real slow, that's where I thought my problem was and it wasn't until I read a review on the aftermarket ones of a person that said it threw both those codes and they wouldn't buy another one. My main problem was that it would run just fine but on the second startup it would throw both codes. For whatever reason when I put the GM Delco unit in, problem solved.
I think I'll pull the water pump and hub back off so I can open up the opti. After re-reading your post about the review, I thought maybe the reluctor wheel has the slots cut just a few degrees off. That would trigger the code. I have the OEM reluctor wheels from the junkyard optis I bought for the sensors. I'll compare them to see if the slots line up. The aftermarket one was pretty flat. Much like the oem. They both had a little warpage when laid on a flat surface, but flattened out when the rotor was tightened down on them.

If that doesn't fix it, then I'll put the original opt back on but with the cap and rotor from the aftermarket one.
 
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