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Discussion Starter #1
ok i've been reading lots of "i spun bearings after heads/cam install" posts at various message boards. i have a crane 227 cam im planning on installing (probably near the end of winter) im not doing the heads though, there staying stock. i also know some have had success just stabbing in a cam and drivin the piss out of it. im not a big fan of gambling so i want the chances of me spinning a bearing cut down to a minimum.

should i just yank the motor and do all the bearings and install the cam and oil pump on a stand? keep in mind this is a b-body and its not such a pain to yank the motor out like the f-body's. i would just rather play it safe and invest money in keeping this motor healthy, then invest in a new shortblock in the near future. am i going overboard?


motor has 63k on it currently, i will be doing all of the work
 

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Don't worry about it....just run a good motor oil and keep the oil clean.

I'm at 75,000 and am on my second set of heads/cam on the stock shortblock and I've yet to spin a bearing. I even went to 15w-50 Mobil 1 just to give added bearing protection...but for years I ran the 5w-30 stuff.

Also don't spin it over about 6100.
 

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ok when you get the cam installed. do it right, no short cuts. when it comes to the break in. dont drive it. unless its on a dyno in a controlled environment.
run the engine at 1500-2000 for 15-20 mins. that will give you the proper break in for a hyd. roller cam.
make sure your oil pressure is good, and make sure that all your lifters a primed with oil.
and use a good ass. lube on everything.
good luck and your swap should be fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
anytime you get to internal type engine work, it goes without saying that everything needs to be kept extremely clean-i understand that. out of curiosity, why would i need to do a brake in period on a roller cam?
 

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b/c even though it has alot less friction, it still has some, and it still will have an area were its going to ride. and wear.
things need to get use to the new place in the engine and the difference between the old cam and the new one.
just do youself a favor and be safe rather than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lifeisgood said:
b/c even though it has alot less friction, it still has some, and it still will have an area were its going to ride. and wear.
things need to get use to the new place in the engine and the difference between the old cam and the new one.
just do youself a favor and be safe rather than sorry.
see first post, lol im not a gamblin' man. it will be safe, rather than sorry
 

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Sure it won't hurt. Break in for a roller IMO would just mean starting it up and driving it a it to make sure you have no leaks or major issues and that everything was installed correctly. BUt its not like an old flat tappet cam, there's no break in material on the lobes or anything.
 

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Chris 96 WS6 said:
OK there is no such thing as "break in" on a roller cam.
well im at school for this, and they recommend a break in period.
20mins. at 1500-2000 for roller, and 20-30 mins, at 2000-2500 for a flat tappet.
im just relaying info that was givin to me at a tech school. (wyotech)
if theyre wrong than theyre wrong
 

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Lifeisgood said:
well im at school for this, and they recommend a break in period.
20mins. at 1500-2000 for roller, and 20-30 mins, at 2000-2500 for a flat tappet.
im just relaying info that was givin to me at a tech school. (wyotech)
if theyre wrong than theyre wrong
I'd generally say Wyotech knows far better than me, since I just learned from my brother and by doing/reading, but I'm guessing "break in" for a roller is just precautionary.
 

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Roller cams don't require the break in flat tappet does. However you should always take it easy on your car for a bit after any modification just to make sure everything is working perfectly. Make sure thermostat is opening/closing, no missing, etc. Biggest deal is just take your time and keep stuff clean.

Josh
 

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Yep, I'm one of the guys with problems after a cam swap. AND I DON'T KNOW WHY. Everything was very clean, and I changed the oil after only about 100 miles. Sure wish I knew the cause so I could avoid a repeat. (I decided to go for a 383 stroker, and after taking apart the old engine, I found the cam AND the rod bearings went.) Sure looks like a lack of oil, but I've never run the car with more than 1 qt low. Maybe I would recommend a new oil pump with every cam swap just to be on the safe side.
 

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im at about 20,000 miles on my h/c, and had no problems yet. knock on wood
 

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Well my uncle is an engine builder and ive built 6 myself. One thing he has taught me is be organized,be smart,and change bearings. Being safe than sorry would require you to change your bearings in MOST cases. Do yourself a favor and change them.
 

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I was one that had a problem but know what caused mine and I wonder if others ran into this....
I used some scotchbright disc to clean my timing cover, I tried to make sure it was not getting in the pan and all that but you cant contain all airborne particles. And this procedure was endorsed by GM for their techs until the week after mine messed up....they (GM) came out with a notice not to do this any longer, the particles are too small for the filters to pick up and they are screwing up bearings. that is the only thing I can think of that messed up my work. So now it is alot of elbow grease to clean surfaces.
 

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The biggest issue with any cam swap is cleanliness. On LT engines you dont have the same probs with water pouring into the lifter valley so focus on cleaning the grit off your manifold before removing it. Be VERY careful with the grit on the underside of the intake as it turns into nasty sandy bearing killing stuff. There is no reason the merely changing a camshaft and making no other mods will kill a bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i've already had the intake off once to fix the common oil leak at the back. i always use starting fluid to clean anything that gets a gasket. i am a mechanic by trade, i just work on military junk. so alot of the same rules apply, i am always clean when i do stuff. if i do this swap i'll stick with a putty knive, gasket remover and starting fluid for the final touch. wall mart get pissed when i go there and buy all of the starting fluid in the building, haha
 
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