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Discussion Starter #1
Last two events I raced I've broke out by a tiny margin, .001 and .003. I couldn't figure out how this was happening because I would dial hard, stage deep, and be on the brakes at the line till it just hit me that my front air dam must be trippin the beams. Does anyone have any suggestions to prevent this? What about removing the air dam or shortening it?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Hitting the brakes hard on the big end drops the front end enough to trip the beams at the stripe. I've finished third out of five events this year and the farther I go up the ladder the more aggressive I get on the brakes to prevent break out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:confused:Not being a racer, could you please explain post #1 in English this time. Not in drag speak.
Sure, but I'm not sure what jargon you get and don't get. Without getting too verbose, which I'm not anyway, point out a few you would like me to elaborate on?
 

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removing the air dam for drag racing and running the fans full time should theoretically be better anyways.

just take it off or shave an inch off of it.

1/4 mile isnt far enough for you to start heating up from the slight reduction in airflow, so it isn't providing any benefit during your runs anyway, ya'd figure
 

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So, what is breaking out, also what is dialing hard and staging deep. And add, tripping the beams to my vocabulary lesson.

So your making a porn video and tripping on acid at the same time?:clown:
 

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From the NHRA.

Dial hard: this is to say dial your car a couple of hundreths below what you think you will run
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So, what is breaking out, also what is dialing hard and staging deep. And add, tripping the beams to my vocabulary lesson.

So your making a porn video and tripping on acid at the same time?:clown:
Breaking out is when you run under your dial in time or the number you put on your car that you think your going to run. You can't go under that number or you lose.

Dialing hard means I'm putting the number or "dial" on my car really close to the actual number is should run.

Staging deep is when you move beyond when the staging lights first come on. There is 6-12 inches between the second bulb and the beam. Staging a little deeper improves reaction time but also slows down ET, it's risky.

Tripping the beams is when you cross them and break the beam of light at the start line or in the case I was talking about the finish line.
So basically I put down a number (dial) on my car that I'm sure I could run. By staging (deep) in gives me an insurance policy that I should not break out in the event I run it out the back door because that slows my ET by about .02-.03 and gives me a better reaction time. By nailing the brakes hard at the end, because I'm a car length ahead of my opponent, it also helps prevent a break out, and so that is how I had a hard time figuring out why I was losing to break out when I usually have it covered. Breaking out by .001 is only about a foot @ 120 MPH and that really sucks especially when I cut a double zero light. I need to take a break now I'm out of breath.
 

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Last two events I raced I've broke out by a tiny margin, .001 and .003. I couldn't figure out how this was happening because I would dial hard, stage deep, and be on the brakes at the line till it just hit me that my front air dam must be trippin the beams. Does anyone have any suggestions to prevent this? What about removing the air dam or shortening it?
When you broke out (I assume that you took stripe) what was your and your opponents RT and what was your MOV?

You might want to put on a beam tripper. Make a bracket and attach the beam tripper by a couple of pins with C-clips. Put it on at the track and remove when done. The spoiler is a pain in the a$$ to keep changing out.

This sounds crazy but you may want to hold ,04 or more so you have something in you pocket. This will allow you to adjust early at the 1000' marker and give you 4-5 times to tap the brakes before the stripe.

I usually hold at least .05-.07 in the 1/4 and .09 or more in the 1/8 driving the stripe.

Another option is for you to spot drop. Figure out how much you can scrub lifting the gas pedal several times starting at the 1000' marker. In my vette I can scrub .07 by lifting off the gas 5 times. UMPA, UMPA, UMPA UMPA, UMPA and then go through the traps gas to the floor. When I do this I don't make any adjustments for breaking out or any relation to my opponents position. A variation of driving it out the back door.
 

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Last two events I raced I've broke out by a tiny margin, .001 and .003. I couldn't figure out how this was happening because I would dial hard, stage deep, and be on the brakes at the line till it just hit me that my front air dam must be trippin the beams. Does anyone have any suggestions to prevent this? What about removing the air dam or shortening it?
At first I thought you were talking about the .500 tree until I read your were talking about the 1/4.

So what are your time's there? Is it a .502? .503? What's your air dam tripping at? Or you running pro tree? So how do the time's there compare?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
When you broke out (I assume that you took stripe) what was your and your opponents RT and what was your MOV?

You might want to put on a beam tripper. Make a bracket and attach the beam tripper by a couple of pins with C-clips. Put it on at the track and remove when done. The spoiler is a pain in the a$$ to keep changing out.

This sounds crazy but you may want to hold ,04 or more so you have something in you pocket. This will allow you to adjust early at the 1000' marker and give you 4-5 times to tap the brakes before the stripe.

I usually hold at least .05-.07 in the 1/4 and .09 or more in the 1/8 driving the stripe.

Another option is for you to spot drop. Figure out how much you can scrub lifting the gas pedal several times starting at the 1000' marker. In my vette I can scrub .07 by lifting off the gas 5 times. UMPA, UMPA, UMPA UMPA, UMPA and then go through the traps gas to the floor. When I do this I don't make any adjustments for breaking out or any relation to my opponents position. A variation of driving it out the back door.
I did take the stripe by about 3/4 of a car length. My RT on that run was a .008 and his was somewhere around .045. Earlier in the year I was whomping the throttle but felt it was too hard on the car so starting using the brakes.

That's funny, I can scrub .07 with my car at the same spot.

It depends on who I'm racing as to how much I hold. I've been dialing honest for faster cars and holding .02-.03 for slower cars. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it very much.
 

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I did take the stripe by about 3/4 of a car length. My RT on that run was a .008 and his was somewhere around .045. Earlier in the year I was whomping the throttle but felt it was too hard on the car so starting using the brakes.
3/4 of a car is way too much. Ballpark that's about .07. Your time slip should who crossed first and by how much time wise (MOV margin of victory). Try to tighten the MOV by taking .019-.010 of stripe. A good reference point is looking 90 degrees straight across and focus on the middle of your opponents windshield pillar. In eliminations make a mental note of the MOV either yours or your opponents. This number is what you saw (or thought you saw lol). Pick up your time slip and see what the actual numbers were. Write the number you saw on time slip and think about it. Replay the race in your head to what you saw and what the exact numbers were. Where you were, where your opponents was, speeds of each of you, and where the finish line was. This will allow you to get to point of seeing exact numbers . Seeing .005 MOV against a 4 second ET difference is possible.

That's funny, I can scrub .07 with my car at the same spot.
This will allow you to change things up and race more than using a single source of strategy. Mix things up so your opponent has a harder time on making a decision on how to race you.

It depends on who I'm racing as to how much I hold. I've been dialing honest for faster cars and holding .02-.03 for slower cars. Thanks for the advice I appreciate it very much.
+1 on changing thing up depending on who your racing. Holding .02 doesn't allow you time to adjust. You have to make decisions too close to h the finish line. Try holding more even with faster opponents.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the advice Kazman. I 'm really starting to get things figured out in a race scenario and I listen with both ears when I hear things like what you're talking about. Think I did pretty good for my first season of bracket racing. Finished 3rd three times out of six events. Car is very consistent and predictable. I'm going to be adding an in car cam pointed towards the other lane so I can play back for reference.
 

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Kazman, do you foot brake or run electronics? What do you consider a decent total package for a foot braker?
Sorry I didn't realize you asked a questions. So much for my RT.

I foot brake sportsman .500 or pro.500. On a pro tree I still focus on my spot on the 3rd bulb. A good package depends on the players in the game. I got beat first round (no buy backs) with an .011 package and on the next weekend lost round one again on a .007 package. That being said I won with packages I really don't want to discuss. lol.

I usually have the slower car so I go consertive on the tree and set up for a .020 light and plan to go dead on with change. So I'm set up for a .029 or better package. Depending on my opponent I can set up for a.00x light and do the same on the dial in side. I'm aware that I have a 20% chance to go red setting up that close. Running an "easier" class I will set up for a .040 or .050 light.

Get a friend to make notes of car #'s and RT in time shots. I'm setup in timeshots for a .000 then back it down for eliminations. That will give you a base line for the players.

Normally in a points race you will win a lot of races with a .025 package.
 
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