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Discussion Starter #1
So I was tuning my car and stiffened up the tranny just a bit. I recently got it built and it shifts so violent its crazy. I decided to go a little more and I just went overboard. First 1-2 shift I blew my tranny mount. Now every wot shift follows with a loud bang. Any specific tranny mounts I should use this time? I'll be bringing it to my tranny builder to see if they will warranty it, otherwise I'll just have them put one in.

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If your in desperate need of one ... I have a fairly new stock one ... Just pay shipping and its yours . I switched to a poly one along with motor mounts .
Don
 

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I wouldnt go with a solid mount. I ripped my mount and went with solid mount. Its too stiff and causes you to feel all the driveline vibration and noise with it. I myself really dont like it but some do
 

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If you have stock motor mounts you should only be using a stock type trans mount. If you use a solid trans mount with stock motor mounts
you will brake your trans tail shaft. Motor mounts must be changed in sets. ed
 

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I wouldnt go with a solid mount. I ripped my mount and went with solid mount. Its too stiff and causes you to feel all the driveline vibration and noise with it. I myself really dont like it but some do
Anytime we've seen someone use a solid trans mount with rubber motor mounts, it ends up breaking the bell housing on the transmission. If the motor moves, the transmission needs to move with it.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright cahall, if you were to recommend a tranny mount, and a motor mount, which would you recommend? I'm sure you know how hard this little 4l60e can shift and what's needed to support it.

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I will let Cahill answer your question about motor mounts, but your comment about how hard the transmission shifts,I am not really sure thats a good thing. Even on a competition transmission,one that is intended for
drag strip only use,I dont think there is much difference on how hard they shift compared to one designed to do heavy duty street use. Just my opinion,hopefully Cahill can answer the "how hard they are supposed to shift" question. ed
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's not like it's giving me whiplash driving around town. Daily driving it is very enjoyable and only the 1-2 shift is noticeable while cruising. It's when I really get on it that it goes full drag mode. So I'm sure it's perfectly fine as it is. I just happened to bump it up a tad too much..

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Energy Suspensions poly mounts for the engine and trans. If you use an ES trans mount, you have to leave the spacer off or it will throw pinion angle off and cause a vibration. In an all out competition car you can use solid motor mounts with a poly trans mount. You just can't go the other way.
Our "Race" and "Pro Race" transmissions do have a pretty firm shift. It's not as a result of common thinking though. We build them to have a quicker shift, which also feels firmer. Making them shift quicker gives the clutch or band less chance to slip, and eliminates the dreaded "bang the rev limiter" on the shift issue that many 4L60Es have. We also use a billet 2nd servo in our "Race" and "Pro Race" units, which have a larger surface apply area than a typical "Corvette" servo. These allow quicker apply of the band and provide more holding power once it's applied.

Frank
 

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BTW, we always suggest that our customers set their trans pressure back to stock through the computer. We make internal modifications in specific places where they're needed, not across the board as the computer will. Pressure in a 4L60E is controlled by the EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid. It works off 12 volts. The less voltage it sees, the higher the pressure. When you "adjust" your shift feel through your computer, you're just reducing voltage to the EPC. This will also usually result in harsh engagements, and broken internal parts.

Frank
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks cahall. I returned everything back once it went boom haha. The only thing I changed was the "shift time" tables. The 2-3 shift took forever. Like i was holding 5800rpm for like 5 seconds. Then I look at the tables and they were set for like 6.7 seconds. Wtf? Changed the 1-2 and 2-3 to 0 because I read that doing that allows for the computer to learn off the tranny or something like that. Now it actually shifts on point lol.

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I suggest using some poly motor and trans mounts. I just replaced mine yesterday with energy suspension on both, left the preload plate off the trans, and it makes the car feel so much firmer. It makes me think my car is new again
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah I stopped by my tranny builder yesterday and he said that the tranny mounts on these cars tend to go really easy. Already knew that lol. He told me to get a poly mount and he'll throw it in there. How big of a job is it anyway? Something you can do yourself easily?

I'm also getting a tranny cooler this summer, along with a yank 4000 stall. It's a little too much stall for a stock LT1, but I'll be doing cam and heads in the future. So don't want to buy a stall twice.
 
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