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Discussion Starter #1
I've been visiting the local 1/8 mile over the last month and honestly I'm a bit disappointed.

Car.....
95 formula T-Top 125Xxx miles

Motor....
Mild cam.....specs unknown
TB bypass
K&N CAI
Stock exhaust mani's
Stock y pipe
High flow cat
Magnaflow 3in cat back

Drivetrain.........
Stock 4L60e
2500-2800 stall
3.73 gears.....
Stock Aburn posi
Steel drive shaft
Poly trans mount

Chassis.....
2 pt welded subframe conectors
Boxes stock rear control arms
Full poly bushing kit
KYB Gas A just shocks
Stock front springs
Monroe cargo rear springs
Heater hose mod

Tuning....... Came with the car and I have no clue what it is or has been adjusted.

What times should I expect to be seeing with this setup?!?

What I was seeing.... With old stall ( stock )
Reaction .086-.026
60 ft. 2.4-2.5
Mph. 76.xx-77.xx
Time 9.01-9.1

New stall...... 2500-2800
Reaction. .126-.083
60 ft. 2.2-2.1
Mph. 76.xx- 77.xx
Time. 9.17-9.22

Old stall was really chattery and would try to push the vehicle while in gear at stop lights. New stall sits nice till the go pedal is pressed.


I'm just baffled as to why my E/T is slower. I would have assumed it would have gotten a lil faster.
Before I was constantly getting hard neck breaking shifts and chirping 2nd gear....
Now it just rolls int 2nd and not nearly as hard of a shift.

I also noticed as the night progressed if I made back to back passes each pass was slower.



Any ideas or insite. I'm new to this so I'm kinda list as to what to expect from these cars.
 

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5,014 Posts
first off get a cable and bring a laptop, and datalog your runs

you need to tune your transmission for the higher stall

that 'unknown cam' is a big variable

a cam only lt1 with those mods should be doing a bit better, that's for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm a complete noob when it comes to data logging or tuning. Please elaborate as to what program/ tuner you are referring to.

I know my WOT shifts are at 6k-6.5k and that ain't healthy for stock valve train....
 

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10 Second Opti Club
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6,736 Posts
Sounds like the stall is kinda junkie and/or the trans is starting to go. Do you have an external trans cooler? An inefficient stall will produce excessive heat which degrades your trans fluid and will eventually kill your trans. You could also use some good drag radials as your 60' times are horrendous.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No slip feel at all on the trans. MPG has actually improved with the new converter. Converter is a DAYCO. I'm installing a external cooler soon to help comat the heat. I am due for a fluid change also...... Still bright red in color but deff smells a lil burnt. I had considered drag radials but I'm hooking up plenty with no wheel spin off the line.

Since the new converter the car is way more fun to drive on the street. It's not lime there's a truck behind me trying to push me through an intersection while I'm stopped and on the brake. I know people will preach brand loyalty and all when it comes to big ticket parts, but u will say this car is my daily driver and will never be a track only car. In fact I'm leaning towards road coarse driving now and not straight line runs. This car has to much potential in the corners to just be driven in a straight line.
 

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You aren't hooking with those 60's. If you aren't sub 2.0, you have room to improve there. Fluid that smells burnt isn't a good sign. Its going to be difficult to feel the trans or converter slip. What size is the converter? 9.5"? 12"? Weather will also make the car slower. go to dragtimes.com, click tools, and check out the DA Calculator. Check the weather for your best pass before the stall and after if you still have that info available then post up what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Weather was with old converter was around 58* and with the new it was 64*. Every time I've been my dad has been there at the line and he says its hooking up with no tire spin.
Converter is a 12in. As far as room to improve........ That's a Given.
 

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Yeah, that 12 inch converter is going to be very inefficient. Some of the smarter guys on here can tell you the exact differences but aside from weight, they are basically like a cavalier converter with the fins bent to have them slip so they act like a higher stall converter. Did you check out dragtimes.com? You put in the info and it will give you the density altitude for both days. This basically tells you how close or far to sea level the conditions were producing. The closer to sea level, the better the car will perform.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Computer is tuned but I think it's half assed. Tuning is unknown just like the cam. Even if the converter is not good for racing its improved my daily driving capabilities.
 

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I'm not doubting that and I'm sure standing on the brakes with the stock stall blew. You asked why you weren't going faster and I tried to help explain what could be going on between inferior parts and possible weather changes.
 

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Spelling Bee winnah!
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5,018 Posts
Cheap converter will kill trans. Bad tune will kill engine and trans. Who cares about track times at this point when there are so many loose ends with this car that you need to address asap. At least get the car tuned so you know you aren't doing any internal damage.
 
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