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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i pulled my motor this week, EASY to do really except for those k member bolts they were a little stubborn but other than that, simple

and i had to borrow my moms tires off her 3.8 to roll it out because i had already laid mine down for the back wheels lol

from there i took the motor off and began teardown, i labeled the wiring harness with avery labels wrapped around the wire by their plug to make it painless for when the rebuild is done to re-install

first off, car has 170k on it, i suspected a blown head gasket and when i started to take off the drivers side head, i noticed that coolant would shoot out of the bolt holes, not good. the gaskets looked ok, no missing pieces, but i did notice the drivers side gasket was warped. previous owner said the engine had a overheating problem due to the fans not kicking on, which they dont, but the mass of the problem was the headgasket all along

what puzzled me is the heads, they look like they have been replaced or at least gone thru at some point because on the back on the motor you can see the difference... the block is black/dirty/gummy, and the heads are clean/almost brand new metal (prev. owner didnt say anything about it). i also noticed that there was a little puddle of coolant on top of the rear two rear drivers side pistons (exactly where the head gasket was warped)

also the exhaust ports on the heads had a LOT of carbon build up (probably a 1/16 of an inch) but hey its an high mileage motor
 

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That's not cement blocks you've got under the front of the car, is it? Cement blocks breaking have injured many people who have used them as jack stands.

I recommend following the advice of the michigan speed article on removing engine from bottom. Build platforms out of 2 by 4's like he does. Much safer. If you don't have the article, pm me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Safety first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
They were there for about 5 mins, enough to snap a pic, move the lift, roll out the motor, re-attach the lift, and lower it down on proper stands, didn't have anything tall enough at the time
 

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Yep, I have heard bad things about cinder blocks,so if you can, use
another method. The anti freeze in the cylinders is no big deal,I think
there was a little coolent in the heads that didnt get drained out,so to me thats not a worry.As far as the heads ,bring them to a competent shop and they will probably be able to tell. good luck, ed
 

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That's one heck of a wheel stand !!! Man you got some serious air !!! Lol. But yes I to have heard of and experienced cinder block fail :(. Please be very careful . Heck if was closer I'd build ya a set of angled blocks to use :) keep us updated on how things go '
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's one heck of a wheel stand !!! Man you got some serious air !!! Lol. But yes I to have heard of and experienced cinder block fail :(. Please be very careful . Heck if was closer I'd build ya a set of angled blocks to use :) keep us updated on how things go '
Haha I need a wheelie bar now! I'll keep you guys updated

Doing a 355, i was gonna do a 383 but I wouldnt have enough cashola to do proper porting on the heads (at least not for a while) so I decided to stick with the 355, I got longtubes still in the box ready to be put on, deleteing AC, deleting emmisions (no testing where I live) and a bigger throttle body, all topped off with a tune

This is "stage 1" of the total build. After some time, I will be doing the second stage which is a heads and cam swap, I should do everything at once but money won't allow.
 

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Defiantly don't skimp on the lower end . Make sure you so that good . Good enough to hold true to your next mod stage . I always like to overbuild to a degree but within reason . I'm sure you researched so won't get into that but just saying . :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Oh and by the way, the exhaust manifold bolts, they were a pain? No, they were pretty much hand tight

So that makes me further suspect that the heads have been off at some point.. hmm
 

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Wow seems like a lot of trouble pulling the motor from the bottom. I pulled mine from the top. It will be worth the trouble when you're done. Good luck.
 

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That's not cement blocks you've got under the front of the car, is it? Cement blocks breaking have injured many people who have used them as jack stands.

I recommend following the advice of the michigan speed article on removing engine from bottom. Build platforms out of 2 by 4's like he does. Much safer. If you don't have the article, pm me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you.

Safety first.
I made some 2'6 - 4' Stands about 15 Yrs ago for my brothers 69 Mach 1 but they wouldn't fit under the car with the engine crane in the way.
I bought some dollies to put under the car so I could get it back inside the garage over the winter. They worked fantastic.

Good Luck with the rebuild.
Mitch
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow seems like a lot of trouble pulling the motor from the bottom. I pulled mine from the top. It will be worth the trouble when you're done. Good luck.
It does yes, but it really was simple. I think lowering the body back on the motor might be a pain when its all done
 
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