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Discussion Starter #1
My horn is not working, it was working and going off when I made big right hand turns. Now there's nothing and I have found that the fuse had blown. Pretty sure problem didn't start till after I was moving the horns around putting resistors in for the LED turn signals. Any ideas would help before I give everything a look.
 

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The most common problem when horns don't work is in the steering column. When you push the horn button, it contacts the horn brush slip rings. This in turn provides the ground for the coil part of the horn relay.

The horn relay is in the convenience center, located under dash mounted to bottom of instrument panel carrier , left of steering column.

For horns to work there must be 12 volts at terminal 1 of relay, (orange wire). There's an internal connection that provides power to relay coil. When you push horn button, ground is provided at relay coil, which is terminal 3 of relay, ( Black wire)

This in turn energizes the relay coil. Points of relay close, and 12 volts sent to horns on dark green wire. Horns blow.

As stated above, the most common problem with horns is the slip rings or contact of horn button ion steering column.

You can test horns by making sure terminal 1 of horn relay has battery voltage. Then run a wire to relay coil ground at terminal 3. Attach wire to terminal 3 and run other end of wire to a good ground.

If terminal 1 has power & terminal 3 is grounded, horn will blow, if horns & wiring to horns are good. If horns blow, relay is good & horn button/slip rings in column are bad.

If horn doesn't blow with power at term 1 & ground to term 3, then replace relay.

95 service manual available at www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks a ton! Weather is crappy out here right now so can't get to it yet.
Does it mean anything that I can get a like "click" when I press the horn button on the wheel?
 

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The clicking you hear, if coming from under the dash, is the sound of the relay points closing. This indicates that horn slip rings, in steering column are closing and ground to relay coil is being provided.

This also indicates that power is there at terminal 1 of relay. This changes troubleshooting now. Your check should be that when horn button is pushed that battery power is leaving relay at terminal 2 (dark green wire).

If no, points of relay are defective and relay needs changing. If yes, problem is in wiring to horns, which includes connector C200 D &A, which are part of ip harness between lh kick panel and steering column.

Wiring also includes splice S158 which is in wiring about 3 inchs from horn wiring breakout.

Also horns could be problem, but you need to check that horns are attached to body in a well grounded spot. If horns are not grounded properly they will not work.

So as a test, remove horn relay. Make sure you have battery voltage at terminal 1. Then use a jumper to jump between term 1 and term 2. If horns are properly grounded and wiring good, horn will blow.

If horns no work, relay is problem. If they don't work, start tracing the wiring.
 

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Coco is correct in saying about the horn itself being bad. The clicking you described osthe relay working, which means the horn button and all are working. Simple test, attach test lite to the horn connection and use the horn. If test lite lites up, bad horn. Makes sense because of the age of the horn. Horns are a vibrating type devise. Ancient design and age affects them greatly(rust inside or the coil burns up from the rust inside. Hence the blown fuse.) Also it is outside in the environment. FWIW. THANKS For reading.
BTW. I am & have been a certified master tech since 1975.
 
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