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oka so i installed my new slave cylinder and did every thing by the book ,,,, but now the pedal falls to the floor no pressure at all, so i need to bleed. i dont understand how to bleed it at all (NO BLEEDER SKREW AND ALL) i know some one has already talked about this but i cant find it anywere. i need to get the car on the road soon so someone help me:craz28:
 

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i believe this belongs in a different section but oh well. from what i understand you take the slave cylinder off the housing and pump it by hand. i think i herd someone say pump it 10 times, check fluid, and repeat 3 or so times.
 

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^^^true that^^^

but i know when i replaced mine i had the wife assist on the pumping of the clutch pedal for about 10 minutes! no [email protected]$ until she got pressure on it to where it was solid as soon as you put you food on it. but i was under the car undoing the bleeder screw....a messy but same method way i say is CRACK the braided line that goes to the slave every time a buddy/wife/gf pumps and HOLDS down the pedal then you close the valve/tighten the line, have then release then crack it open again as soon as you instruct them to pressure the pedal, hold, bleed some fuid out, close the line, release ect...like i said, i did it for a good 10 mins or until the old lady says shes too tired.....lol :) and i had a solid pedal.....hope this helps
 

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^^^true that^^^

but i know when i replaced mine i had the wife assist on the pumping of the clutch pedal for about 10 minutes! no [email protected]$ until she got pressure on it to where it was solid as soon as you put you food on it. but i was under the car undoing the bleeder screw....a messy but same method way i say is CRACK the braided line that goes to the slave every time a buddy/wife/gf pumps and HOLDS down the pedal then you close the valve/tighten the line, have then release then crack it open again as soon as you instruct them to pressure the pedal, hold, bleed some fuid out, close the line, release ect...like i said, i did it for a good 10 mins or until the old lady says shes too tired.....lol :) and i had a solid pedal.....hope this helps
there is no bleeder screw on a lt1 t56:(
 

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ther may be a "mighty vac" in your future as the LT1 hydraulics are not designed to bleed.

what has worked is drop the slave from the bellhousing mount and pump by hand from underneath car while someone else watches the top resevoir for bubbles and refills it as needed. This will take a LONG time as air is easily trapped in the system. Also make sure you hold the clutch pedal up (zip tie or something) inside the car so there is no pressure on it.

you can also take the entire assemble out of the car and bench bleed it
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i used a mighty vac and it did nothing i will tty to tear it apart and bleed it by hand
 

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mighty vac should do it better..

you need to confirm the piston on the MC is fully extended. this is why I said to hold/zip tie clutch pedal up for bleeding. you can even pull the clip holding the piston to pedal assembly also. that piston needs to be fully extended for bleeding.

I am talking about the piston on MC..not slave
 

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it is done i removed the slave and just held it right side up and pumped it as my friend watched the level,,,,,,,,,,wow that stage 3 is stiff!!!!!:lol:
 

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ther may be a "mighty vac" in your future as the LT1 hydraulics are not designed to bleed.
Oh really? And where did you hear that?

it is done i removed the slave and just held it right side up and pumped it as my friend watched the level,,,,,,,,,,wow that stage 3 is stiff!!!!!:lol:
That is the recommended method for bleeding the hydraulics. The Mity-vac method does not work very well, it will suck air back into the system.
 

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Oh really? And where did you hear that?



.
the GM LT1/4 pull clutch hydraulic system is a sealed "closed" system installed as a complete unit. So it is not "designed" to bleed. Yes you can by pumping it from the bottom (slave) but under normal circumstances you should not have to "bleed" it. If air was introduced by seperateing the slave and mc you can bleed by hand pumping but results vary.

and holding the clutch pedal up (zip tie) or removing the clip/pin of the MC part that attaches to clutch pedal helps because that piston wants to be fully extended to allow any air to push up to the resevoir while pumping the slave.

sounds like the Op resolved his issues
 

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the GM LT1/4 pull clutch hydraulic system is a sealed "closed" system installed as a complete unit. So it is not "designed" to bleed. Yes you can by pumping it from the bottom (slave)but under normal circumstances you should not have to "bleed" it. If air was introduced by seperateing the slave and mc you can bleed by hand pumping but results vary.
I was curious where you heard it. Because whether you believe they were "designed" to be bled or not, GM does in fact have its own recommended method for bleeding the hydraulics. Why would they have that, if they were to never be bled?

If they were designed to never be bled, are we to believe that any time there is air in the system, or a leak, or if you were just replacing the fluid, that you must replace the entire hydraulic system? That's nonsense.

I myself have had outstanding results using the GM method, as have many others.
 

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, GM does in fact have its own recommended method for bleeding the hydraulics. .
Spartan

Not saying it can't be done but simply saying it is a sealed system. yes it "can" be bleed but unfortunately GM did not spec a bleed screw/fitting to do so easily.

I have separated the system before on a A4 to T56 swap on my car and did bleed it. Others have used a Mighty Vac with good results as opposed to the "hand pump" from underneath the car or bench bleeding.

On a stock sealed system a unit requireing bleeding would indicate there is a leak somewhere in the system and bleeding it, IMHO, would we a band aid.

Ideally GM would have made one so the entire system could be flushed considerably more easily than it is in stock form.
 

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Not saying it can't be done but simply saying it is a sealed system. yes it "can" be bleed but unfortunately GM did not spec a bleed screw/fitting to do so easily.
So what? Just because it doesn't have a bleeder screw, you're not supposed to bleed it? How does GM get them bled in the first place when they assemble them then? They just dump in the fluid and leave it?

I really don't care about your preconceived thoughts on hydraulics. You can argue all you want that it was never "designed" to be bled, but it doesn't make it true. And now I'm done arguing this. If you don't get it, that's fine. I think I've made my point to everyone else.
 

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I really don't care about your preconceived thoughts on hydraulics. You can argue all you want that it was never "designed" to be bled, but it doesn't make it true. And now I'm done arguing this. If you don't get it, that's fine. I think I've made my point to everyone else.
wow spartan, don't get your panties in a wad, not "argueing" with you or anyone else. The OP did get his issue resolved....and did it as I and others had suggested by "pumping" slave from bottom.

I have also said the LT1 hydraulics would be "easier" to bleed if they did have a bleed screw as aftermarket slaves have. Sorry useing the word "designed" was so upsetting to you.

as how the manufacturer of the sealed system fills them in the factory, don't know but please enlighten us if you do.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i did a ton of research and there is a gm methos involving loosining the master cylinder but the best way is to pull it hold it rightside ip and pump it with the cap off the resevoir they both work:LS1LT1flag:
 

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I have tried all the ways listed and no luck ain’t getting much pressure. I took the whole system off bench bleed it. All is brand new from slave cylinder the hydraulic line and the master cylinder all new. I have done everything no luck don’t know what else to do. Appreciate any other ideas if anyone has had this problem
 
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